Datsun yokes

[ggzilla]

 

I have come across three parts called Yoke

* Manifold Yoke

* Driveshaft Yoke (tailshaft slip-yoke)

* Disk-brake caliper Yoke

 

I think there are more yokes on Datsuns ... like the York a/c compressor ... just yokeing

 

[ggzilla]

The caliper yoke is quite interesting. As the name implies it distributes the load, specifically the force from the twin caliper pistons onto the brake pads

 

 

Many Datsuns used Girling-Tokico disc brakes that were an evolution of designs by Lucas Girling which included the Anette, Babette and Colette series

1969 Annette: Fixed twin-piston with floating caliper (yoke type)

#15 is the yoke. Photo from the factory service manual of the ANNET 12/14A. Larger sizes were used on other Datsuns e.g. AN-18 and AN-20

 

 

[ggzilla]

The Propeller Shaft Yoke is a slip-yoke used in most transmissions except for some of the truck driveshafts

 

Sleeve Yoke end slips into the tail of the transmission and allows for changing length as the rear suspension moves up and down. The length of the yoke has to accomodate this sliding motion, and presumably that's why Datsun revised it a little longer

 

 

 

[ggzilla]

The mystery of the Manifold Yoke washers. I think this is a type of spring washer, as the bottom side has a non-parallel face

 

I long wondered why Datsun calls these yokes. Then I got to thinking, I wonder if this is a British term inherited from the Datsun-Austin days? Sure enough, while Mini enthusiasts call them washers, Austin itself called them "yokes", such as Austin A-series part 1B1369

 

The yoke washers are used to bolt the manifold assembly to the cylinder head on some Datsun L-series and A-series engines. They distribute the clamping force of the nut to two different parts: the inlet manifold and the exhaust manifold. Yoke Washers are only used on the bottom row of studs

 

A note about these:

* the torque is very important. On some engines it is a light 8 ft. lb, but check the service manual for your specific year and engine

* if you separate the intake and exhaust, often the gasket will leak after they are put back together. To lessen that chance, bolt the two parts together loosely, then fasten to head finger tight, then finger-tighten the two manifolds together (two or three bolt that connect the intake to the exhaust). then tighten the manifolds together. Shops say you need to re-reface (mill) the manifold assembly, but I've had good success with this method