ggzilla Posted October 23, 2025 Report Share Posted October 23, 2025 Reverse gear doesn't use a synchro, so youR have to wait for the clutch to stop spinning LHD vs RHD ... Borg Warner transmission works on either side without hydraulics Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 23, 2025 Report Share Posted October 23, 2025 Shouldn't take long for the clutch disc and countershaft to stop spinning while swimming in 90w oil. This is why first few shifts in the winter are stiff. The driveshaft is turning but the countershaft stops instantly in thick almost grease. The synchros groan under the load of trying to spin up the countershaft to match the driveshaft. 1 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 Man my wife disappears faster than Houdini when there is a clutch or brakes to be bled. The freeplay is important and also snug the locking nut at the top of the pedal. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 that's why I long ago stopped using the 2-person brake bleeding method. I get better results with the glass and tube method 1 Quote Link to comment
DwayneOxford Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 Direct linkage is waay better. All there was when I was a kid. Wonder if theirs have direct linkage? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 Direct clutch linkage? Used on most JDM Datsuns. My experience having driven RHD and LHD Datsun 1200s is that the hydraulic one is much better, low effort yet with better feel. Even with a brand new cable, the RHD direct linkage clutch is not as smooth. Both work better than many american cars I've driven. And on 1960s-1970s pickups with non-cable direct linkage, it wears after 10-15 years and is a bit sloppy Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 8 hours ago, bottomwatcher said: Man my wife disappears faster than Houdini when there is a clutch or brakes to be bled. The freeplay is important and also snug the locking nut at the top of the pedal. Funny.My wife does too.It takes a bunch of times to get all the air out.I have been using my Auto Zone's one man bleeder kit for over 20 year's.My method is.I put the box end wrench around the bleeder screw then put hose on bleeder screw, put fluid container higher than slave cylinder,it has a magnet. Air can't go back in.Then get wife to push clutch pedal 5 times and hold.Then I open bleeder screw.Air and fluid comes out.Then I close bleeder screw.I get my wife to do again.Then I put more fluid in clutch master cyllinder.I do this till all air is out and clutch pedal is tight.All new yellow brake fluid is now in the system.I take for a drive and bleed again to see if air is completely out.This has always worked for me.Maybe I should give my wife a little money.Everyone has there own way of doing it.I do my brakes the same way when I put a new Brake wheel cylinder on. Quote Link to comment
DwayneOxford Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 37 minutes ago, ggzilla said: Direct clutch linkage? Used on most JDM Datsuns. My experience having driven RHD and LHD Datsun 1200s is that the hydraulic one is much better, low effort yet with better feel. Even with a brand new cable, the RHD direct linkage clutch is not as smooth. Both work better than many american cars I've driven. And on 1960s-1970s pickups with non-cable direct linkage, it wears after 10-15 years and is a bit sloppy JDM? By better I meant positive and simple. Yup, I grew up on wore and sloppy. When motor mounts got slack it'd mess with carb and clutch linkages. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 59 minutes ago, ggzilla said: Direct clutch linkage? Used on most JDM Datsuns. My experience having driven RHD and LHD Datsun 1200s is that the hydraulic one is much better, low effort yet with better feel. Even with a brand new cable, the RHD direct linkage clutch is not as smooth. Both work better than many american cars I've driven. And on 1960s-1970s pickups with non-cable direct linkage, it wears after 10-15 years and is a bit sloppy Mechanical clutch linkage connects a solid body with a torque leaning transmission. Hydraulic clutches eliminate this. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 Japan Domestic Model is the version designed for Japan. And by extension used in and Right-hand-drive countries. Most? RHD Datsuns used a mechanical clutch linkage 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 1960s Datsun designs used a mechanical clutch linkage with cross rod, like 1960s american vehicles 1970s Datsun designs used a mechanical clutch linkage with cable. It eliminated the transmission-to-chassis alignment issues 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 Early Chev S10s had cable. Maybe they all do? When the cable stretched there was nothing you could do but replace it. Quote Link to comment
PineClone Posted October 24, 2025 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 23 hours ago, datzenmike said: Shouldn't take long for the clutch disc and countershaft to stop spinning while swimming in 90w oil. This is why first few shifts in the winter are stiff. The driveshaft is turning but the countershaft stops instantly in thick almost grease. The synchros groan under the load of trying to spin up the countershaft to match the driveshaft. Tell me more about "the groan". I've heard a groan from the transmission when first starting the engine on a cold day. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 24, 2025 Report Share Posted October 24, 2025 Sorry, by groan I mean they are under a lot of stress. They don't groan. However if the groan is because you are starting your engine while holding the clutch down, that's probably the release bearing. Start in neutral. Avoid prolonged periods of engine running with clutch disengaged. Get in the habit of shifting into neutral at stop lights and let the clutch out while waiting. Your release bearing will last a lot longer. Quote Link to comment
PineClone Posted October 25, 2025 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2025 2 hours ago, datzenmike said: Sorry, by groan I mean they are under a lot of stress. They don't groan. However if the groan is because you are starting your engine while holding the clutch down, that's probably the release bearing. Start in neutral. Avoid prolonged periods of engine running with clutch disengaged. Get in the habit of shifting into neutral at stop lights and let the clutch out while waiting. Your release bearing will last a lot longer. Ah, yes I have been starting it with the clutch depressed. On the bright side, at a stop light I never sit with the clutch depressed. Thanks for the tips. Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted October 26, 2025 Report Share Posted October 26, 2025 On 10/24/2025 at 11:32 AM, ggzilla said: that's why I long ago stopped using the 2-person brake bleeding method. I get better results with the glass and tube method I have the vacuum pump but mixed results. Bought some of these aquarium check valves to put in line with the one man bleeder kits and they do keep the air from getting sucked back in. They were real cheap at the time so I usually chucked em after a use. Got like a 10 pack. Still a few floating around. https://ebay.us/m/u8TlrG Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted October 26, 2025 Report Share Posted October 26, 2025 (edited) 9 hours ago, bottomwatcher said: I have the vacuum pump but mixed results. Bought some of these aquarium check valves to put in line with the one man bleeder kits and they do keep the air from getting sucked back in. They were real cheap at the time so I usually chucked em after a use. Got like a 10 pack. Still a few floating around. https://ebay.us/m/u8TlrG I Dont use them black.pieces that goes on the end of the hose.I just put the end of the hose on the bleeder screw, fits perfect and stays on.I first put my 5/16 open end wrench on bleeder screw,then put hose on,that way the wrench wont come off when I go to add fluid to the reservoir.The black parts circled,I dont use, not needed.Never ever used them.You can get a Philips screw driver and make the hose end bigger to fit the bleeder screw.What I did?Here is mine,see the hose enlarged on the end.Stays on too. Edited October 26, 2025 by Thomas Perkins Quote Link to comment
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