struts

[Tommy Dat]

I want to replace my shocks/struts on my 1977 Datsun 200sx but cannot find any that confirm to "fit".  Has anyone changed their struts?  Any help is appreciated.

[datzenmike]

Depends on your aim. If just renewing them there are two ways.

 

1/ the strut dampers(shocks) are inside the tube in an oil bath. If they haven't been emptied out and replaced with dry inserts then you can replace the stock hydraulic oil with something thicker like 20w motorcycle for oil to 'firm them up.' Cost about $15

2/ If, in the past they were replaced with 'dry' inserts then all you can do is replace them again. I don't know who would have the exact ones for the S10 but with some depth measurements you can select one that is the same length or slightly shorter. If shorter, stack washers under it to make up the difference. Maybe $75 each?

 

If your aim is going lower, you can fit a shorter strut from another Datsun. The most usual is a '79-'83 280zx strut though the '80-'81 Maxima is similar. They are about an inch shorter to start with. This is much more involved than replacing the insert. The 280zx strut comes with a huge caliper and large diameter vented rotors that require a 14" rim. Basically the lower spring perch on the S10 strut needs to be cut off of it and it and the spring transferred to the zx strut tube. OR cut the zx perch and spring and buy a coil over and spring and weld it on. The drawback is they are expensive and once height is adjusted all that expense is just along for the ride. Here I should say that whenever lowering you really need a stiffer spring to reduce the chance of hitting the pavement on bounces. So buy a stiffer spring or cut your stock one to increase the stock spring rate, shortening a coil spring makes it stiffer. There is some simple math and a formula for determining how much to cut to get the spring rate you want. Why buy a spring when you already have one and a hack saw???I think up to 2 1/2" of bory drop is safe without risking the strut bottoming out IF you also have stiffer springs.

 

Lowering brings with it increased toe out and bump steer which can be eliminated with spacers between the bottom of the strut tube and the steering knuckle. Lowering also alters camber so camber plates may be needed also.

 

Because the caliper on the zx strut is so much larger it will need more brake fluid volume so your stock 3/4" or 13/16" master will have to travel farther to deliver. This means the brake pedal travels farther and seems mushy. It still works, but the 280zx used a 15/16" master and for reason.

 

 

This is my Maxima strut on my 710 but it would fit the S10 200sx also. Again, it's much more involved than I have described. I'm using a 280zx 15/16" master cylinder. If lowering the front, the rear must also be lowered and that another story. I got them for free and replacing the damper fluid, shortening the spring and making the ride height adjustable came to less than $50. Once I got the ride height set I've never touched it. So $300 - $??? saved on coil overs that do nothing but go along for the ride.

 

This is a LOT of stopping power...

[Tommy Dat]

thanks very much for all the information!  I will check out the dampers once I get things removed.