ermish header

[russaroll]

Anybody running an Ermish header.  Do I need to take the steering box off or something to get this thing on? 

 

thanks

[datzenmike]

 

 

Unless your L series is heavily modified the stock manifold is more than enough.

 

 

Too tired to go on my usual rant against headers. Don't throw your manifold away. Eventually the header will pack it in and I doubt you will be impressed enough to want another.

[russaroll]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

Unless your L series is heavily modified the stock manifold is more than enough.

 

 

Too tired to go on my usual rant against headers. Don't throw your manifold away. Eventually the header will pack it in and I doubt you will be impressed enough to want another.

I've read this many times. 🙂  thanks.  You could say my motor is slightly modified.  

 

Another worthless thread.  I answered my own question.  I was just looking for the easy button.

 

The answer is YES.  You need to remove the steering box, then slip the header in, then bolt the steering box back up. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

nOt worth the hassle i think. but you must have bought the header all ready..i think there be enuff room with carbs off. Just sell it.

[banzai510(hainz)]

long tube on a L20 mite hit the floor .have to call troy.

[russaroll]

16 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

nOt worth the hassle i think. but you must have bought the header all ready..i think there be enuff room with carbs off. Just sell it.

i'm beginning to think this.  still might sell it in the future.

16 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

long tube on a L20 mite hit the floor .have to call troy.

it's real close, maybe 1/8" (maybe closer,) from the floor.  i don't know if i can get my fat head under the car enough to be accurate. XD

[banzai510(hainz)]

kinda common on long tube headers with a L20 people got to smash the floor.

Plus on a lowered 510 it might catch something.

This is why I like the short tube if they anygood or the stock manifold and route a 2in to keep better clearance

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 2/22/2025 at 4:20 PM, russaroll said:

I've read this many times. 🙂  thanks.  You could say my motor is slightly modified.  

 

Another worthless thread.  I answered my own question.  I was just looking for the easy button.

 

The answer is YES.  You need to remove the steering box, then slip the header in, then bolt the steering box back up. 

Or have the header installed when the motor is out. Or disconnect the steering center link (the side at the pitman arm). There are a few ways to get it in.

 

FWIW - this whole "header bad, manifold good" argument. Come on guys. Some engines need a header. I get you may not be the kind who is willing to put up with the pitfalls of owning a header equipped Datsun, but there are ways. Quality fasteners, good gaskets, stay away from "3 bolt" flanges, regular maintenance. Just keep the fasteners tight. That's 90% of the problems anti header guys complain about.

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Found a better meme...

 

[datzenmike]

I read somewhere that the stock manifold is good to about 150 HP then it can become a liability. Datsuns won a lot of road races and competitions... probably with the stock manifold, though I don't know for sure. Aren't there rules? I think it was designed with performance in mind. Headers are a lot of money and bother for a hp or two (maybe) on a stock engine. and that hp gain is at revs you never run at. I had one on my '71 521 back in the mid '70s. I was so pumped to add that 10 hp. But after all that work getting it on there was ZERO change and constant headaches with it. Even the placiebo effect didn't help the ass dyno. I would easily have thrown it away but instead I had thrown the old manifold away and was stuck with it. I usually warn those wanting a header to not throw the manifold away. Never again.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I read somewhere that the stock manifold is good to about 150 HP then it can become a liability. Datsuns won a lot of road races and competitions... probably with the stock manifold, though I don't know for sure. Aren't there rules? I think it was designed with performance in mind. Headers are a lot of money and bother for a hp or two (maybe) on a stock engine. and that hp gain is at revs you never run at. I had one on my '71 521 back in the mid '70s. I was so pumped to add that 10 hp. But after all that work getting it on there was ZERO change and constant headaches with it. Even the placiebo effect didn't help the ass dyno. I would easily have thrown it away but instead I had thrown the old manifold away and was stuck with it. I usually warn those wanting a header to not throw the manifold away. Never again.

Many of the L motors built today are 2200cc or larger. A stock L20B with a cast manifold, the good one, not the siamesed piece of crap, can make 150hp, but many of these new engines make 200 plus and the cast manifold won't keep up. No, we're not talking racing engines either. These are street motors designed to run on pump gas and top out under 7k RPMs. Good modern cams are the difference. Most of the common cam grinds used to day weren't around 20 years ago, let alone 40 years ago.

 

Depending on the design of he header, and the tube size, you can tune it around whatever RPM range you like. Smaller and shorter tubes for low RPM. Longer and larger doesn't necessarily mean high RPM. It could be exactly what a street driven 2300 needs to run well at all. Then there's the tri-y, which can be beneficial for torque.

[iceman510]

7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Found a better meme...

 

 

Better than Young Frankenstein?  Never.

[russaroll]

If anyone else is thinking of buying one of these, here are some things you might want to know.

 

(1) You will need the Ermish trans mount.  It drops the trans slightly so the header does not hit the floor.  It also has no obstruction for the exit.  I had a T3 mount and the header dumped almost in the middle.  There was nowhere for the exhaust pipes to go.

 

(2) You will also need the Ermish intake manifold or Nissan Comp (I think), any other manifold might hit the header.  I had a LYNX manifold and it was no bueno.

Edited June 15 by russaroll

[iceman510]

Thanks for the update.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

21 hours ago, russaroll said:

If anyone else is thinking of buying one of these, here are some things you might want to know.

 

(1) You will need the Ermish trans mount.  It drops the trans slightly so the header does not hit the floor.  It also has no obstruction for the exit.  I had a T3 mount and the header dumped almost in the middle.  There was nowhere for the exhaust pipes to go.

 

(2) You will also need the Ermish intake manifold or Nissan Comp (I think), any other manifold might hit the header.  I had a LYNX manifold and it was no bueno.

Curious if you bought the stainless header or the mild steel.

[ggzilla]

The web site only lists one today: Nissan Competition stainless steel

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I know firsthand that he has had them made in mild steel too.

[Crashtd420]

11 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I know firsthand that he has had them made in mild steel too.

Seems they stopped selling those,  they only have the stainless for the L20b... they use to have the mild steel and a setup for the l16/l18... that's gone too.... 

[RLJ]

Just to throw a wrench in the stock manifold debate.
Know of a Rebello 2.3 using a the good cast iron manifold making 220 hp.
Granted it probably would have made 235-240 with a header. Appears the cast iron manifold is not as much of a hinderance as thought. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Way to throw a wrench in there Richard.

[datzenmike]

That's short for Dick isn't it?

 

 

There's a reason it's called a cast iron header...

 

 

 

[RLJ]

Just the facts.
I've seen the dyno sheet. 

[datzenmike]

Would need to know what the stock exhaust made compared to the header. A 250 hp mystery Ermish/Rebello engine with header doesn't really tell you much. Like how much HP does the header extract? On a stock or mild build I doubt there's much difference because the stock system isn't restrictive.

[russaroll]

On 6/16/2025 at 11:26 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Curious if you bought the stainless header or the mild steel.

I got whatever was listed.  I think there is only one option.  "Nissan comp stainless steel header. L20B TALL DECK."