datzenmike Posted January 13, 2025 Report Share Posted January 13, 2025 35 minutes ago, Stinky said: The inert gas that goes into the combustion chamber, from the EGR, reduces pressure in the chamber which decreases MPG and power. Not really. EGR just takes up space like removing some throttle input. Less actual fuel and air can get in. But you won't notice anything because to drive you just step down on the gas to get the power you want. Say you need X amount of power to go from stop to 30 MPH. You step on the gas for X but you get X-5%. Nothing is going to waste you are simply getting less than you asked for, so your foot adds the missing 5% to bring up to X. If your EGR is connected, pull the hose off of it and drive a tank full, you'll get the same mileage. Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted January 13, 2025 Report Share Posted January 13, 2025 Mike,I gave him the details on how to join and that you are the owner and the best mechanic to fix things and best mechanic here. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 13, 2025 Report Share Posted January 13, 2025 Of Ratsun??? I'm definitely not the owner. Mechanic? maybe a bit. Quote Link to comment
toshts Posted January 13, 2025 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2025 Quick question on the weber, can I swap the fuel inlet to the other side? Looks like I could just swap the inlet and the plug to make it easier to route the line Quote Link to comment
ElliotV Posted January 13, 2025 Report Share Posted January 13, 2025 8 hours ago, datzenmike said: Of Ratsun??? I'm definitely not the owner. Mechanic? maybe a bit. I usually just call you Datsun Jesus 1 1 Quote Link to comment
toshts Posted January 27, 2025 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2025 Update on the weber experience Little concerned I might have a vacuum leak still. After first installing it, I noticed a sound of air whooshing in and wasn't sure if it was just the sound of the weber or not. After driving for a little while the whooshing got worse and the power started to decrease. Went to check it out and the carb was loose I could move it by hand. Took it off, retightened each spacer individually and while it's not loose anymore I still hear that sound and want to know if it's normal or not. Smoke test just resulted it smoke coming out the air filter (no surprise not a great test for this application), brake clean test made no change, and the needle on the vacuum gauge is a little unsteady bouncing about 1-2 psi. Wondering if webers normally sound like they're sucking in way more air than the original carb or if it's more likely I've got a leak and need to do more digging. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2025 Report Share Posted January 27, 2025 Get a propane torch, don't light it but turn it on and direct the fumes around the suspect area. The air leak will be causing a lean fuel mix. If propane gets sucked in the added fuel (and air) will cause the engine to rev up slightly. An air leak so loud you can hear while driving is unlikely, it's wouldn't idle. 32/36s are LOUD sucking sound because the thing that passes as an air filter, is so small and not enclosed in a housing, that the sound is not deadened. Quote Link to comment
toshts Posted January 27, 2025 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2025 1 minute ago, datzenmike said: Get a propane torch, don't light it but turn it on and direct the fumes around the suspect area. The air leak will be causing a lean fuel mix. If propane gets sucked in the added fuel (and air) will cause the engine to rev up slightly. An air leak so loud you can hear while driving is unlikely, it's wouldn't idle. 32/36s are LOUD sucking sound because the thing that passes as an air filter, is so small and not enclosed in a housing, that the sound is not deadened. Okay sweet thank you, I'll give the propane a try and if I get nothing then I guess I'm good. Also gonna check the total timing, got the initial set to roughly 4 degrees but forgot to check total too. Quote Link to comment
ElliotV Posted January 28, 2025 Report Share Posted January 28, 2025 Where are you hooking the vacuum gauge? At idle with it timed correctly should see about 18-20 inches of mercury(in hg). Which should be about 9~ psi of vacuum. On my 86 when I tuned it with only the intake spark plugs working I just used a vacuum gauge and got it to pull 20 at idle from the manifold and then tried starting it again and it locked so I backed the timing off a little and now it's really happy and fires up fine in the cold. Quote Link to comment
toshts Posted January 28, 2025 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2025 3 hours ago, ElliotV said: Where are you hooking the vacuum gauge? At idle with it timed correctly should see about 18-20 inches of mercury(in hg). Which should be about 9~ psi of vacuum. On my 86 when I tuned it with only the intake spark plugs working I just used a vacuum gauge and got it to pull 20 at idle from the manifold and then tried starting it again and it locked so I backed the timing off a little and now it's really happy and fires up fine in the cold. My bad meant it's bouncing 1-2 hg not psi, sitting around 21-23hg. Measured hooking the vacuum gauge to the manifold at the elbow plug right below the carb. It's a little loose, bouncing slows down when I squeeze the hose on the connector which might just be what I'm seeing. Timings set to 4ish degrees but I can't advance anymore, the bolt heads on the bottom of the dizzy hit right at 4 or so. Quote Link to comment
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