Cardinal Grammeter Posted December 23, 2024 Report Share Posted December 23, 2024 (edited) My 620 is pretty bad, sure other Datsuns have this problem. Compressed air and vacuum tried, maybe removed 10% at best. All I can think of now is tweezers under magnifier. Each tan spec is a complete needle totally in the fins. Thoughts: *) Sulphuric acid would dissolve them but also the zinc out of the brass *) Boiling? soften or shrink them? *) Bake? is char temp low enough to not affect solder I'm thinking bake might be trick. Edited December 23, 2024 by Cardinal Grammeter Quote Link to comment
flyerdan Posted December 23, 2024 Report Share Posted December 23, 2024 Pressure washer? Maybe an electric one that don't put out super high pressure so it won't distort the fins. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 23, 2024 Report Share Posted December 23, 2024 Dissolve some sodium hydroxide (main ingredient in Drano crystals) or use Drano, it contains aluminum chips that when wet dissolve producing much heat, to melt soap and lard, and also explosive hydrogen gas. So do outside in a suitable container that the core can be submerged in. If using Sodium Hydroxide it's also known as Lye, use hand and eye protection as above. Mix in hot water to speed organic decomposition. Lye will dissolve organic material. If you use Drano go to their FAC and it says will not harm plastic or metal pipes or solder. How long? A day or so? I don't know but what's the rush if the results matter. It will at least soften the needles so it can be easily rinsed out. It might take the paint off and any foam rubber???? Quote Link to comment
Xiao_Hu Posted December 23, 2024 Report Share Posted December 23, 2024 Foaming cleaners for radiators would also be a good idea. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 23, 2024 Report Share Posted December 23, 2024 Liquid Drano might also work. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 24, 2024 Report Share Posted December 24, 2024 dOnt look that bad Quote Link to comment
Cardinal Grammeter Posted December 24, 2024 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2024 (edited) 4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: dOnt look that bad It's worse than it looks. Can't feel any airflow velocity out of defroster or heater outlets. Heater core is so undersized have to make sure no cab leaks. _________ Studebaker Hawks had an auxiliary heater under the seat - a complete module with blower and core. Man I wish I had saved one. Would be perfect for the 620. Hum, this has promise - price isn't too awful bad: $160 https://www.ebay.com/itm/275860282745 This one would fit underseat maybe But $360 https://www.zoro.com/aftermarket-16-000-btu-compact-auxiliary-heater-for-under-seat-mounting-12-volt-ah500/i/G505759103/ Edited December 24, 2024 by Cardinal Grammeter Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 24, 2024 Report Share Posted December 24, 2024 mY heater cage was full of pine needles then i got heat out of it.thats when defroster worked.make sure valve is open Quote Link to comment
Cardinal Grammeter Posted December 24, 2024 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2024 1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said: mY heater cage was full of pine needles then i got heat out of it.thats when defroster worked.make sure valve is open The valve is open, the air flow is restricted. 10 year ago when I got my 620, I took the heater core out and flushed and flushed and flushed brown water out of it. Finally I ultrasonic cleaned it in vinegar. that changed everything. The instant I ran hot 150* water into it, it was too hot to handle - the scale really slowed things down. The other problem is that the core is a U-turn. Crap in the turn-around tank has to be gotten out. This is very difficult. I think both the acid and ultrasonics is needed to get it right. But once done, wow, heater has some real juice. I have 100' spruce trees in my yard and I have to figure out how to keep needles out Maybe some kind of "chimney cover" over the snorkel and below the cowl. Screening the cowl louvers wouldn't work either, some needs would get by. For now, I'm going to keep it far away from the pines, a PITA, but a solution. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 25, 2024 Report Share Posted December 25, 2024 i Have same proplem w pine trees Quote Link to comment
Cardinal Grammeter Posted December 25, 2024 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2024 I need to figure out how to keep them out of the core. Window screen won't work - it'll get clogged and still let some thru. Very fine wire mesh would work but will get clogged - if attached to cowl shouldn't be hard to clean. Invisible window screen might work. Then there are filter meshes. Not sure what's available locally. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 25, 2024 Report Share Posted December 25, 2024 Get a pleated cabin air filter and cover the hole in the plenum. They are cheap and low restriction. Quote Link to comment
Cardinal Grammeter Posted December 25, 2024 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2024 16 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Get a pleated cabin air filter and cover the hole in the plenum. They are cheap and low restriction. it might work, but a filter on the suction side of a pump is never a good ideal. Given the whole blower/heater core is so marginal, I'd look for something without flow resistance. I think there are no cowl slots above the snorkel. So a "collar" around the snorkel to within and inch of the cowl might get the job done. Studebaker had a flat metal mesh air filter that slid thru a slot right against the heater core. Of course when you pulled it out, the slot scraped all the debris off dumping it onto the heater core (!) Quote Link to comment
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