my worst nightmare

[jerryt]

Well I put the head on the block. I hand tightened the head bolts. I put the chain and sprocket back on the camshaft. Then I went to take off the timing chain wedge and it broke. Needless to say I was pissed. Im pretty sure I know what I have to do but luck deserted me.

1. Since I didn't torque the head bolts I can still use head gasket?

2. I have to take the front end of the motor off. Distributor, water pump, oil pump, alternator

3 I also have to take off the oil pan to make sure no debris fell in

4 I can keep the head on with the timing chain and jus remove the wege and dbeis

5 Is there a way to judge if there is too much slop in the chain? And since the timing chain is on the cam sprocket do I have to tie bak the chain tensioner?

6 Thank you for letting me ask my dumb questions. Im still upset at my motor.

Thanks and sorry for the rant

Jerry

[datzenmike]

Try turning the crankshaft pulley back and forth with a wrench. This will likely pop the wedge out.

 

Once all assembled and bolted down, set accurately to TDC on #1 compression stroke. Look on the back side of the cam sprocket for the little V cut into it. Look just above it on the cam thrust plate behind it, there is a small etched horizontal line. If cam is properly timed the V will be below this line and/or just slightly to the right as viewed from the front.

 

 

Here the V notch on the sprocket is just slightly to the right of the small line above it. This cam is perfectly timed and you'll note that it is on the 1 position. IF the notch was slightly to the left of the line you could secure the tensioner from falling out, remove the sprocket and set the cam dowel pin into the 2 position. This would move the cam sprocket about 4 degrees or about the width of the line to the right and correct for chain stretch or stretch and head milling that has introduced slack into the chain.

[jerryt]

Hi Mike. My main problem is that pieces of the wedge may have broken and fallen into the pan. So I think to give me peace of mind I should take off the front cover and pan. I was really not happy when all this happened. But Spit happens. In my first post I asked a few questions. Since the head wasn't torqued I can use the head gasket again? I know I have to take off everything like distributor, crank pulley, water pump and everything else in the way. Also the pan needs to come off and I have plenty of room. Is there a way tie off the timing chain tensioner. And how do you inspect the timing chain for wear. Last time I built a Datsun motor I replaced everything. Today wasn't a great day. But tomorrow is tomorrow.

Thanks

Jerry

[datzenmike]

Try rocking the crankshaft back and forth. If you fish out the broken piece it should be obvious if it's all there. No harm trying.

 

Is it wood or plastic? Several L series engines have been taken apart and a previous owner has left a wooden wedge in there.

[jerryt]

Hi Mike. I guess I could rock the engine pulley and try to fish out the pieces. The wedge was plastic 3 d printed. I guess it's worth a try to fish it out. I gotta get a really long handle needle nose pliers. Maybe after drain oil and inspect for pieces.

Thanks

Jerry

[datzenmike]

Well if it snapped in two getting it out there's one piece left.

[jerryt]

It snapped in two by the chain tensioner. Up near the camshaft it broke and fragments came off. Im going to do this. Since I didn't torque the head im going to take off the cylinder head and try to get a better view of what might have fallen in. Then I will try to fish out pieces with long 18 inch needle nose pliers. Maybe a shop vacuum. If I, lucky I can get all the pieces out. Then put a rope on the remaining piece by the tensioner. put the head on with the cam sprocket and rock motor back and forth to see if I can dislodge the chain wedge at the bottom of the motor. In my first rant I was pissed. Now that I have read all your suggestions. I will try and think before I dive off the deep end. Oh well off to Harbor Freight to get fliers. Wish me luck.

Thanks

Jerry

[jerryt]

Well I finally got the wedge out. I estimate its about 95 percent complete. I had to put it back together like a puzzle. The bottom of the wedge near the crank shout is kind of beat up. I think I should drop the pan to see if I can find the last few pieces. What do you all think?

Thanks

Jerryt

[banzai510(hainz)]

over priced but better made

https://zcardepot.com/products/timing-chain-guide-retainer-tool-240z-260z-280z-280zx#

 

I had bought the POWERBUILT brand and those were like 5 $ at the time and gave most away

[datzenmike]

The crank sprocket would easily grind up anything left, if any at all. To get out of the chain loop at the bottom it would have to be quite small and would come out with the next oil change.

 

[Draker]

Mike is right, probably not a big deal. Is the motor in the car or on a stand?

If you didn't torque the head bolts, then the head gasket can be reused. How tight are the bolts, just hand tight? Typically you go in stages when torquing these down.



 

[datzenmike]

Just for the sake of clarity...

 

R  A  D

7.....8

3....4

1.....2

5....6

9...10

 

Tighten in 3 stages using the above sequence, first to 20 ft. lbs, then again to 40 ft. lbs, and finally to 60 ft. lbs. After several heat cycle warm ups and after the engine is totally cooled down, check torque and correct to 60 ft, lbs if needed.

 

Don't forget the two 10mm bolts that go down into the timing cover on each side. Go easy... 4 to 6 pounds. It's aluminum and soft enough to strip.