Engine cuts off after accelerating

[Bas90501]

As the title says. My engine wants to cut off after accelerating but doesn't.  Here's a video of what it does. I've checked vacuum leaks and tried tuning the carb to the best of my ability. I'm stumped. It makes driving the truck extremely hard. https://imgur.com/a/H5Yk01T

[Bas90501]

I tried uploading a video into the post but it's too large. 

[datzenmike]

Replace the fuel filter. It's plugged enough that when accelerating the carburetor is using gas faster than it can be replaced by the pump.

[Bas90501]

So I've replaced the fuel filter a couple times with some clear ones to keep an eye on it. Right now it has some sediment but fuel is still running thru pretty smooth. Should I still change out? Were you able to see my video? 

[datzenmike]

I thought you meant accelerating while driving.

 

Can you post a picture of the left (driver's) side of the carburetor?

 

Check the carburetor mounting bolts are tight.

 

Try turning the idle mixture screw out 1/4 turn at a time. Keep track so you can put it back. Rev it up like the video after each adjustment see if it changes.

[banzai510(hainz)]

got to be more specfic.

does the truck idle once warmed up? if yes then I say filter is good as the debris would have cloogd the idle jet by now. But Mike is correct if a hard pull the filter could be old and full of junk.

 

Is your choke flap open after warmed up? If not then its choking out. If open then choke is good.

 

Is this a stock or Weber carb?  If stock carb is the 2ndary barrel opening up? whay I would do is have aircleaner off make sure the 2nd flap is closed. Rev motor up and put your hand over the main barrel and see if the 2ndary flap opens up with the xtreme vaccume. If not then its stuck chokeing out the carb at higher revs.

if weber its a mechanical 2ndary and will open like at halfway throttle. Key is when not in use there is a spring to keep it shut and dont want to premature open as it will bog it down at lower revs.

 

Next I would time this with a light. see whats your rading. if not light then see if your in middle range of the distributor timing slot or close to it.  If motor was opened up and oil pump instlled wrong could be off a tooth. But if this all of a sudden happen then its not it. But I would open distributor cap up and look at the vac adv plate and see if this moves with your fingers. I rencently had this happen. My power loos was going up a hill or seem to just cut out. restart then fine for a little while.

al ck for distributor play if it wiggles side to side or if still points maybe a condensor is getting weak

 

Also I had a cut out on hard accel . Only to find out my alternator belt was loose. so ck to make sure you got good voltage at the battery when reving up.

[Bas90501]

So i have noticed that when cold and I start it it revs up to about 1800. But it stays there. Once I push the gas pedal it goes back to 700-800. How long should it take for the rpms to go down if I don't hit the gas pedal? 

 

Ok ill try and be more clear. So when it's idling. It sounds great. Once I accelerate it builds up rpm then wants to cut off but starts back up. I have a weber 3236. I've timed it to 12 degrees on the gun. 0 at the crank. I will try and answer more questions once I get a chance to diagnose. But for now I can upload a Pic. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Is this elelctric  or manual choke.. I see a wire so maybe elecctric choke. Photo of other side be better also

Is this a real weber? made in Italy or now Spain?

 

Carb looks new. Was this running OK before? Or just happed? Or when you put the carb on.  I cant mind read so all the details would help of what where and when .

 

also I see a thin carb adapter. If too tight those carb adapters can crack but when they crack its usually one has BAD dle. So dont think its that

 

If this was running OK before let us know so we can say rule out the carb .

be honest My Webers have never really gone bad. Accel pump leak or plugged idle jet. Its always been electrical related for me.  OK one time the 2ndary close spring poped off. This would give a condition like you said. th sedondary should stay closed untill the mecanical linkake opened it.iM NOT POSITIVE OF THIS SPRING TILL I GO HOME AND LOOK.AT MY SET UP.

 

But check what I listed and Do before coming back.  I listed!!!!

Edited November 2, 2024 by banzai510(hainz)

[banzai510(hainz)]

Not to confuse more but if this is brand new made in China carb(not sayng its bad). after warm up and idle the truck runs off the accel pump( you push the gas down) then goes to main jet and thats plugged and dies out. Now dont  go thinking this yet but but could be

Edited November 2, 2024 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

Just great. Never mentions the stock carburetor was replaced with a Weber. Not much about the original carburetor applies to the Weber. Well that's my fault for not asking I guess. lol.

 

It's normal for a carburetor with a choke to start up cold with a fast idle of around 1,800-2,200 RPMs It will stay revved up after the choke warms up and opens because the fast idle cam is held by the throttle. Once you step on the gas it releases and the idle drops to 600-700.

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

take the air cleaner off and look down the carb and cycle the throttle