Nissan/Datsun Rekeying services

[Xiao_Hu]

Moderators feel free to remove this or tell me a better place to put it. 

 

So I know I haven't really properly introduced myself but I'm a licensed locksmith. I do a lot with cars and I enjoy it so I wanted to officially say that I picked up lock servicing kits for most Nissan and Datsuns of the relevant vintage. I can replace the wafers in your ignition or doors to match, assuming you don't have mismatched key types, and make everything use one key. 

 

I won't pretend to be the cheapest person on the block but I am interested in making sure everyone's satisfied. I have already done this for my friends 1971 510 (complete and total rekey of the car) my 720 (re-key the ignition back to the doors), and two D21s. I'm familiar with how to take apart your locks without damaging them and keeping them lubricated and well maintained; I can also walk other people through on how to do it with basic hand tools and a drill press (for ignition locks) 

 

Anyways to give you some idea of pricing if you do want to consult me: 

 

Rekeying three cylinders (driver, passenger and trunk) to an ignition key is $65 plus shipping both ways. An ignition is $45 on average. And finding out a bitting based on locks provided is $70. 

 

I'm also capable of telling other people how to do it as I said, it's not hard but you might need access to certain parts to for instance replace face caps (you have to destroy them to open door locks), remove ignition brass pins or roll pins, etc. 

 

And before you ever consider sending something to me make sure that your key fits in all the locks. Some years have mirror locks and if your car is a Frankenstein it's possible that some of your locks have been replaced and use a different key way (X6 and X7 are the same bittings but mirrored for instance).

 

Some locks will require picking in order to remove them without damage (hatch locks in particular!!!!)

 

This might already be known to some of you but I just thought I would share it as someone who desires to help people out. 

[zed1]

Xiao_Hu,

I have a 1969 Nissan Patrol rear door latch that has a seized shaft.  The lock assembly does turn correctly. Are you able to service the latch to free the shaft?

Thanks,

Keith

 

 

 

[Xiao_Hu]

That looks like a standard shed t handle. I can probably give it a shot but it probably isn't disassembleable. If I were you what I would probably end up doing is take a map gas torch and heat up the shank of it, Chuck it in a vice while still hot and wiggle it back and forth while it's still warm and adding lubricant as you go. Houdini is the best thing for it. 

 

If I were to take on this job myself I would have to have you sign a waiver that I might end up destroying the handle and that I'm not responsible, and I would have to charge you by the hour. I would prefer not to do that and in general this is something that I'm pretty hesitant to take on because I'm worried that it might be destroyed by the amount of force needed to break it free. 

 

You can probably take a standard shed T handle and replace it pretty easily. That would be the path of least resistance here

[Colbino]

This is great! I've been wanting to have this done. Looks like you're located in Virginia. 

 

I just purchased a new ignition for my 1200 and don't have keys for the locks. Hopefully the new ignition uses the same key type as the locks. If not, I guess you could just create a key for the locks only.

 

Also, one of my locks has the center metal flap piece broken. Is that easy to fix and/or something you can fix?

[zed1]

11 hours ago, Xiao_Hu said:

That looks like a standard shed t handle. I can probably give it a shot but it probably isn't disassembleable. If I were you what I would probably end up doing is take a map gas torch and heat up the shank of it, Chuck it in a vice while still hot and wiggle it back and forth while it's still warm and adding lubricant as you go. Houdini is the best thing for it. 

 

If I were to take on this job myself I would have to have you sign a waiver that I might end up destroying the handle and that I'm not responsible, and I would have to charge you by the hour. I would prefer not to do that and in general this is something that I'm pretty hesitant to take on because I'm worried that it might be destroyed by the amount of force needed to break it free. 

 

You can probably take a standard shed T handle and replace it pretty easily. That would be the path of least resistance here

 

Xiao_Hu,

Thanks for your response and suggestion.  I will certainly reach out to you as I progress through my Datsun projects.

Keith

[Xiao_Hu]

Quote

Also, one of my locks has the center metal flap piece broken. Is that easy to fix and/or something you can fix?

 

I can probably replace your lock worst case. Yes, I'm in VA. 

[Xiao_Hu]

So not getting ahead of myself here but I might be able to document how this is done very soon. I have a gentleman sending me several lock sets that he wants me to rekey up. So I will do that and make a series of posts on how it's done. I'm not worried about people doing it for me because it is kind of a pain in the ass and you need some specialized parts which are not cheap. 

[iceman510]

Also interested.  I have a 73 I would like to key alike all locks, but I'm not sure if possible.  The Ignition lock is from an earlier car, and I think single sided.  I have a bunch of old key blanks around as well if you need some.

[Xiao_Hu]

All Datsun 510s as far as I have seen use X6 or X7 blanks. This is not to say that it doesn't exist but worst case I can machine down a key or something on one side. 

 

My friend swore up and down he had a single sided Datsun key. Turned out to be bunk! All Nissan locks of this era have wafers only on one side but a double sided key. At least, as far as I've been able to see which isn't much

[datzenmike]

Do you mean teeth cut only on one side? My 521 only had teeth on one side same with my Canadian '68 510.

[Xiao_Hu]

All right so this is for an S30 Z. Once you have the door locked you pull the little pin off the back and remove the arm and you'll be looking at this. Carefully using a pair of needle nose pliers, pull out the spring. 

 

 

The original face caps are crimped on. You will want to use a pair of side cutters carefully grip the edge and rip it off. Bend the rim all around and then use a hammer and a screwdriver you don't care about to bust the cap off. Just be careful to avoid scratching the core. 

 

 

After the face cap is removed just push it out from the back where the spring used to be and it'll come sliding out. 

 

 

Next take a blank (uncut) key and shove it into the core. Pay attention to the wafer heights. 

 

They're only a total of four depths on this key. 1 is "no cut" and 4 being the deepest. 

 

Now Source yourself a rekey kit online after you prepare the key that you want to use. 

 

I had to machine my set of wafers very slightly to match the dimensional tolerances. Should not cause any issues obviously. 

 

Now you just reassemble. For cleaning, stick to: brake cleaner (non chlorinated), Houdini (locksmith oil) and triflo lock oil. Do not use WD-40 or penetrating oils. You should also Grease the lock. I use white lithium. Reassemble the lock and using a replacement face cap which has four tabs bust the tabs down to make sure that it is reassembled. 

[Xiao_Hu]

I don't have any photos in this post but I do have a gripe: 

 

The glove box cylinders were clearly never meant to be rekeyed. 

 

Once you have the glove box cylinder out of the glove box you have to drill one of the sides of the retaining pin out because it is peened over. Once you drill into the hole enough you knock out the pin using a punch. Then you pull the pin out all the way and pick the glove box over to the locked position to pull it out. Dumbest design ever. 

 

Because I've got a bunch of these to do for this gentleman I decided to build a drilling jig. That allows me to drill straight every time and only take away what I need to in terms of material 

 

I will probably when I get to the ignition take apart an ignition and photograph the procedure because it's a giant pain