Help!

[peteyharmonica]

I bought a 1985 Nissan 720z standard transmission fiberglass RV. It was running rough and stalling every time I let off the fuel but I was still able to get around in it. Sprayed carb cleaner into the carb, fuel line antifreeze and treatment into the tank, then replaced the fuel filter and pump, but then wasn't getting power to the pump so I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still no power to the pump. When I jump the pump from the battery it works but the engine won't turn over. I have no clue what to do and I'm using the vehicle as my home so I'm kinda screwed at the side of the road. (I tried jumping the blue terminal to the black and white terminal on the relay before I ended up replacing it and it got the pump motor going but the relay jstarted buzzing like an alarm).

* Update: occasionally turns over and runs for about 30 seconds, then dies and the new fuel pump relay starts buzzing.

[Thomas Perkins]

A.Check battery and alternator.

[DwayneOxford]

There's the fuel pump control module on the R. kick panel at the end of dashboard. It has prob got a bad solder joint. There are two modules together, the fuel module has 6 wires. Jump the W to WB wires and see if pump works. Need to take back off and heat all the joints.

[Draker]

If you’re stuck on the side of the road, tap into the fuel pump with 12v. Get somewhere safe and then look at that module.

[datzenmike]

6 hours ago, peteyharmonica said:

I bought a 1985 Nissan 720z standard transmission fiberglass RV. It was running rough and stalling every time I let off the fuel but I was still able to get around in it. Sprayed carb cleaner into the carb, fuel line antifreeze and treatment into the tank, then replaced the fuel filter and pump, but then wasn't getting power to the pump so I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still no power to the pump. When I jump the pump from the battery it works but the engine won't turn over. I have no clue what to do and I'm using the vehicle as my home so I'm kinda screwed at the side of the road. (I tried jumping the blue terminal to the black and white terminal on the relay before I ended up replacing it and it got the pump motor going but the relay jstarted buzzing like an alarm).

* Update: occasionally turns over and runs for about 30 seconds, then dies and the new fuel pump relay starts buzzing.

 

 

If truck runs then not the pump or the relay. There are hundreds of reasons for stalling at low speeds or idle but if it otherwise runs then it's getting fuel and the pump working.

 

The 720 choke heater relay is very near the fuel pump relay and they DO buzz sometimes. Next time it buzzes put your hand on the pump

relay and see if it's the thing buzzing. The pump relay is about the size of a pack of cigarettes, the auto choke heater is mounted above the pump relay and is about 1/4 the size. 

 

AS Dwayne said "Jump the W to WB wires" This eliminates the pump relay and the pump is turned on/off with the ignition. You can run with it like this. 

[peteyharmonica]

2 hours ago, DwayneOxford said:

There's the fuel pump control module on the R. kick panel at the end of dashboard. It has prob got a bad solder joint. There are two modules together, the fuel module has 6 wires. Jump the W to WB wires and see if pump works. Need to take back off and heat all the joints.

I replaced that module. It's brand new. I currently have the fuel pump wired straight to the battery with a fuze and a on/off switch. The bigger issue is that the carburetor seems to be no good. If I replace it with a Weber is it a straight across swap or do I have to modify or replace anything that's attached to it? I want to get this done and be gone and not be taxiing back and forth to the parts store for days.

[peteyharmonica]

It starts but It won't run for long. 30 seconds max.

[datzenmike]

 One thing at a time.

 

Is the fuel pump working now so we can move on?

 

 

 

Next time it quits turn the ignition off immediately and look at the small round glass on the front of the carburetor. The fuel level should be at the half way mark. IS IT????

[peteyharmonica]

Yes, at the halfway mark. A friend with mechanical skills helped me troubleshoot. We're pretty sure it's an issue with the carb. The throttle isn't opening the airflow properly.

[datzenmike]

 Get a flashlight and look down the primary barrel. You may have to hold the choke open to see past it. Have someone step on the throttle.

 

What you should observe is the brass throttle plate move from horizontal to vertical open. Does it? I'm pretty sure it does. If so the throttle is working properly.

[peteyharmonica]

We did this for a couple of hours yesterday. The throttle plate isn't functioning as it should. We tried to wire it at a midpoint so I could at least move it but it's a no go.

[peteyharmonica]

What's the best place in Canada to order a Weber conversion kit from?

[datzenmike]

The stock carburetor is the best when running right. It's cheaper to get it running vs. $400+ for a Weber.

 

 

Well throttle should close at idle. I assume it does.

 

Adjust the throttle cable so it is snug but not pulling the throttle open above idle. Step on the gas it will open the throttle fully.

 

What 'wiring it' ????? is the carpet in the way of the pedal that it restricts it being floored???????

[peteyharmonica]

Tried to tie it with baling wire lol. Carpet is fine, the pedal floors easily.

[peteyharmonica]

I'm in a random parking lot in a random town, I know a couple people but don't really have access to an extra pair of hands. The carb is filthy and caked with buildup. 40 years old and sat for decades likely. 148,000km. If I need to take it off to clean it with no guarantee that all issues will be resolved, I would rather install a new one that doesn't include an O² sensor, just in case there's an issue with that as well. Is there any downside to replacing the factory carb with a Weber? I've heard that the increase in power and acceleration is pretty good, that could help with driving mountain roads in BC. The sooner I get it dealt with the less towing charges I'll gather moving from place to place so I don't get impounded lol. 

[peteyharmonica]

The throttle wasn't closing

[datzenmike]

 

 

6 hours ago, peteyharmonica said:

 The throttle isn't opening the airflow properly.

 

3 hours ago, peteyharmonica said:

The throttle wasn't closing

 

Well this can be confusing. If not closing it would be revved up at idle.

 

Is the idle speed screw turned in to reduce idle speed?

 

This could be the throttle cable set too tight. Try loosening it so there is slight slack so the carburetor can close.

[peteyharmonica]

I'll try that. I got towed to a friend's who wanted me to take care of her cat and drive her car while she's in Mexico so I have a lot more leeway to do repairs, charge my phone, and shower without having to hang around and guard my vehicle from meth-heads and mall security lmao. Worth the $400 towing charge.

[Thomas Perkins]

Meth heads,your funny.400 bucks to tow wow.How come you don't have roadside service with your insurance?Call your insurance company and add it.

Edited November 2, 2024 by Thomas Perkins

[peteyharmonica]

On 11/2/2024 at 2:27 PM, Thomas Perkins said:

Meth heads,your funny.400 bucks to tow wow.How come you don't have roadside service with your insurance?Call your insurance company and add it.

I have one more tow this year with my CAA platinum membership but if I'm not able to get things running right I'll have to use it later this year to move the vehicle an even longer distance. In BC our single insurance company is hand in hand with government and corrupt as hell so there's no added perks you can get, they rob us blind in taxes to register used vehicles, and pay next to nothing for insurance claims.

[Thomas Perkins]

Wow.

[peteyharmonica]

So I'm seriously considering a Weber clone from import auto in Vancouver, either a 32/36, or 38, to increase the power for mountain driving with the attached RV. They will set the jets and include the installation kit for about $450

[datzenmike]

That's a lot for a non Weber. Why not get a real one? I can't believe the prices, used to be just under $300 US.

 

Not a 38/38, get a 32/36 if getting anything.

[peteyharmonica]

You don't think the boost in power from a 38/38 would be worth it going over the coquihalla or Rogers pass? I'm not a prairie-boy

[datzenmike]

Sure, but it will work just as well with a 32/36 and it's a lot easier to live with the rest of the time. The 38/38 is better suited for a six cylinder or small v8 and a bit large for a 2.4 liter engine. Yeah it will work, but there's an old saying that it's better to have a carburetor that is too small and wish it was bigger, than to have one that is too big and wish it were smaller.