Zoaholic Posted Tuesday at 06:18 PM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 06:18 PM I've noticed that after daily driving my truck the throttle lever on the carb doesn't like to go back to its resting position, it ends up idling at around 1.5k ish despite me having the idle at 800. Whenever it's idling that high I can move the lever back physically and I see that it's slightly outwards instead of it resting how its supposed to. How do I make the lever always go to its resting position instead of it getting stuck? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted Tuesday at 06:58 PM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 06:58 PM Couple of things could be the problem 1/ Find the electric choke heater pictured above. It should have a blue wire going to it. (it will have a black colored sheath covering it) If you have a meter fine, if not get a $5 test lamp... Test for power but only with the engine running. Lack of power when there should be some will cause the choke to not open fully and the fast idle cam may be engaged. 2/ Spray everything below the choke heater with WD-40 and move the linkages to loosen and lubricate them. Specially this thing... Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted Tuesday at 09:27 PM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 09:27 PM (edited) What your problem is your lock nut is too tight.It is not allowing your throttle to go back all the way.What you need to do is,get a flat head screw driver and bend down your washer tab at nut ,this keeps your nut from moving.Then get a pair of pliers to hold throttle so it won't move, then loosen nut a hair,Then bend tab back to secure nut,adjust nut as needed to get throttle to move back to your set point.Don't loosen nut too much,then spray with W.D.-40,also spray your fast idle linkage too.This was my problem long ago.Here is the nut and washer with tab.I have extra nuts and tabs. Edited Tuesday at 09:45 PM by Thomas Perkins Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted Tuesday at 09:38 PM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 09:38 PM (edited) Here is a picture of it.I just took this picture.I had to turn my phone up side down to take the picture's.I also use a Pioneer throttle cable.Stock one went bad long ago. Edited Tuesday at 09:42 PM by Thomas Perkins Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted Tuesday at 09:51 PM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 09:51 PM (edited) I've had this Weber for over 8 years and never had a problem with anything but the gaskets need changing yearly.In time you will see fuel stains around the gaskets.I have a boat load of them.I do check the top screws often.And the bottom 4.I clean the filter with Dawn.As I just seen,the back of my Weber is dirty.Which means time to take Weber off and install new gaskets and clean it.The inside stays clean. Edited Tuesday at 09:54 PM by Thomas Perkins Quote Link to comment
Seven Two Oh No Posted Wednesday at 01:46 AM Report Share Posted Wednesday at 01:46 AM If it's still sticking after you've sorted the choke and linkages as described above, the throttle shaft bushings may be worn out and causing some grief. I replaced mine with bearings (8x12x3.5mm like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TJQZBMX), which made the throttle action much smoother. Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted Wednesday at 03:20 AM Report Share Posted Wednesday at 03:20 AM Is your cable to tight?0 Quote Link to comment
Stinky Posted Wednesday at 01:30 PM Report Share Posted Wednesday at 01:30 PM Look at your choke....as mentioned. My guess is that it is not warning up and the spring is not relaxing, and that it is always in cold-start mode. Quote Link to comment
Zoaholic Posted 31 minutes ago Author Report Share Posted 31 minutes ago The weber is fairly new. Sprayed and lubricated all of my linkages and pretty much everything. I've been driving it since I made this post and I think it just needed a little lubrication... I'll still look into loosening the lock nut, at times the throttle will get stuck around 1000 but it does rest eventually. I appreciate you all Quote Link to comment
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