Lego's 71 510 wagon

[DARIN 510]

N58? Can you take pics?

[datzenmike]

It's often hard to tell a 8 from a 6 in poor lighting and it's position where cast so check again. There was an N56 that has round exhaust posts and liners and is very much the same as the W58 open chamber head.

 

If it had W58 then '78-'80 engine. I have no info on N56 heads, they were not listed as used here in N America but you never know, the odd one may have got through as a replacement on an import engine  

[Legoman27]

Definitely N58
looks like it's open chamber on my borescope
 

 

 

 

cast in the back :
A
#68
12-7 ---Assuming this is a production date?

[datzenmike]

Probably the mould that was used. Can't make then fast enough with one, probably dozens of them, plus heads get improvements and revisions. If it turns out there is a problem later you can search for them by number. With liners this was an attempt at emissions reduction so no way it would be a closed chamber. Treat it as a W58.

 

Get rid of the Bosch plugs for NGK. 

 

Can you post a picture of the cam sprocket at TDC? Should have a #2 at the 2 o'clock position.  If #3 it may have been milled to increase the compression.

[Legoman27]

linking my cam thread here,
thanks mike, hainz, roadrace
overall - 288 deg duration, 110 deg separtaion, ~.500" lift (measured a second time) 
retainers and all else seem stock

 

 

On 11/30/2025 at 5:58 PM, datzenmike said:

Can you post a picture of the cam sprocket at TDC? Should have a #2 at the 2 o'clock position.  If #3 it may have been milled to increase the compression.

looks like this one is set at #1
from other posts on timing most l20b's are set up using the #2 dowel. 
Either set up wrong or a bodge to try and make the cam work
I'm measuring .025" valve lash

The more I stare at this thing the less I trust it
debating pulling the head to clean everything up and start from square 1

[Rustbin]

On 12/6/2025 at 4:05 PM, Legoman27 said:

The more I stare at this thing the less I trust it
debating pulling the head to clean everything up and start from square 1

 

If you pull it apart and it is all good then your out new gaskets, if not your in it for all that it'll take to make it good, either way peace of mind. If you just run it you will always be wondering when it'll blow something. 

[Legoman27]

picking up where I left off

 

 

 

[Rustbin]

Nice work. I've been noticing the right side is always more damaged than the left. You can check the rad support with a long straight edge to see if it's flat, I've found mine was about a 1/4 inch in on the right side. 

[Legoman27]

The wheel well patch was mostly because of rust

 

there's a little waviness I might try and shrink out of the rad support, but it seems mostly straight as best I can tell

there was a little damage at the very bottom right, in the box section, but it almost looks like someone tried to jack up the car there as opposed to accident damage

 

there are a few spots on the inside of the right rear quarter with some filler squeezed through 
I figure it's from a screw and slide hammer 

Edited April 13 by Legoman27