Let's see some machine work

[datrod]

Red....buy the lathe first :) Get one like Slo did....with tons of tooling. I've got more into tooling now than the cost of the lathe....probably twice into mill tooling as the mill! :(

 

Creepy....didn't notice the air gauges.....love them!!!

 

I have a ton of shit, I don't even want to know how much $$$$$ I have in it.

Welcome to my world:D

[datrod]

O.K. Today I did some wheels for a ratsun member. 3 sets, Opened up the bore to fit his many trucks.

The pallet,

Before the machine work. Oh I think I need to change the date on my camera.

Cuttin chips

After the machining

Another shot of the cutting. Just for Mike. He loves this shit. LOL

Edited February 26, 2009 by datrod

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Love the last pic John...flying alluminum chips !!!

[datrod]

Love the last pic John...flying alluminum chips !!!

 

The wheels are for Ray.

Yea I tend to get just a little bored with it. But glad you liked the shot.

Kinda hard to open the door on that thing without getting a bath. And can't really run it dry or it will load the cutter.

[mklotz70]

Sweet!!! Thanks John!!! See...what I got from that was a cool idea for creating a set point on the bed to register the next piece of work! :)

 

I'll use that when I do some rims for Paula. I was thinking it was going to be a pain to recenter each of the 4 rims. I need to drill a new bolt circle for the center caps since the old screws snapped off. I'll offset the circle by about 1/4" and use the DRO for it. I'll then bore the centers out a bit for the hubs. That would be 8x's I'd have to reset the center. Now, I'll just clamp some blocks to the bed like the rounds on yours :)

 

Thanks!!!

[Icehouse]

Dude thats awesome!!

 

At first I thought you were building wheels :D

 

I made some spacers for my truck on the lathe the other day, no pics though... I need to build something that will impress you guys :D

[datrod]

Dude thats awesome!!

 

At first I thought you were building wheels :D

 

I need to build something that will impress you guys :D

 

That is going to be tuff.

Some of the stuff Mike is making in his garage is pretty good. I've done this everyday for 30+ years. So you know I'm going to be hard on ya. :eek:

[mklotz70]

I'm all giddy now!!! :) Thanks :)

 

 

Ice....it doesn't have to impress....there's a ton of guys that will check this stuff out. They'll see John's stuff and be blown away....I know I am!! ......but maybe they'll see something you do and feel like they could do that to and want to try it.

 

The mind, stretched to a new dimension can never return to the old one :) Once you believe you can do it....you're past the hardest part!!

[Icehouse]

Thats true Mike!! They gotta start somewhere :D I really want to make a flange for the SR but it's a little out of my league... Soon though, one day I will look back at this post and say haha I did it :D

[jesusno2]

I just went and got my little 9x20 lathe from idaho. Turned my tc rods so I can adjust them. I was kinda spoiled using the bigger lathes. I forgot how fragile my 9x20 is I really need to beef up the compound mount and need to make a coolant pump setup so my drill bits will quit seizing when I'm drilling!!! I also forgot being belt driven it does not have enough power to tap anything hardly at slow speeds

[mklotz70]

.....but you still have capabilities most other don't. Heck....I have no clue how to turn threads on anything yet!! :(

[Icehouse]

I know how to power tap using the lathe :D It's kinda scary but works great!

[jesusno2]

That's what I'm talkin bout power taping! Its so fast and accurate. Mike if your machine is a gear driven machine threading is easy ya just need to set the machine for the correct speed get your bit up on center to the work piece. Then what I do is take a real slight scratch cut, then check it with a thread guage (a bolt will work for referance too). Then while the machine is stopped throw the tumbler in reverse and back cut. Stop the machine and the proceded those steps untill your thread is complete.

[datrod]

That's what I'm talkin bout power taping! Its so fast and accurate. Mike if your machine is a gear driven machine threading is easy ya just need to set the machine for the correct speed get your bit up on center to the work piece. Then what I do is take a real slight scratch cut, then check it with a thread guage (a bolt will work for referance too). Then while the machine is stopped throw the tumbler in reverse and back cut. Stop the machine and the proceded those steps untill your thread is complete.

 

That works. But you could just program your CNC and let it do all the work for ya. :D

[mklotz70]

That works. But you could just program your CNC and let it do all the work for ya. :D

 

hahaha.....you funny!!! NOT!!! :) I could do that if you'd hurry up and move your shop up here!!! :)

 

 

Jesusno2......you make it sound easy enough, I just might have to go try it. I've read about the reverse trick, but I don't have a brake on the lathe, so I'd hate to crash it cause it didn't stop fast enough. I'm pretty sure I could pull it off using the dial thingy on the screw drive :) I was just reading Byron's(canada) build thread on the realm.....I really want to turn inside threads on the shortened strut tubes!! :) I think I got a pudgy every other page on that thread....sweet machine work!!!

[datrod]

hahaha.....you funny!!! NOT!!! :) I could do that if you'd hurry up and move your shop up here!!! :)

 

 

Jesusno2......you make it sound easy enough, I just might have to go try it. I've read about the reverse trick, but I don't have a brake on the lathe, so I'd hate to crash it cause it didn't stop fast enough. I'm pretty sure I could pull it off using the dial thingy on the screw drive :) I was just reading Byron's(canada) build thread on the realm.....I really want to turn inside threads on the shortened strut tubes!! :) I think I got a pudgy every other page on that thread....sweet machine work!!!

 

Mike,

On your lathe is there a dial or other gismo that turns with the lead screw?

If so you just have to time it every time you want to make another pass. To get the pitch right. There should be some leavers that need to be set for the pitch you want to cut.

Set your upper compound to 30 Deg. And use that to feed in deeper every pass. You have to start at the same point every time. With the big handle that you move toward the chuck. Don't set a positive stop. If you miss the pull you will break the lead screw. Kinda hard to explain here but it's really easy to do.

[jesusno2]

Ha ha ha that cnc stuff is for cheaters! Lol. Trust me mike I've crashed my little lathe a few times threding stuff! But I pay close attention to my dial. Or my dial indicator if I'm ambitious enough to set it up. Fine threaded stuff is tricky to time cause the lathe is usually really humming! But its pretty easy. I like to practice on 1/2 round stock so you can get the hang of stopping the lathe.

[mklotz70]

Thanks guys!

I have read a bit on it, so I know what you're talking about. Just haven't really tried it. I do have the split nut and the dial for the lead screw. I have read about the 30deg on the compound...that keeps it from cutting on both sides of the insert? There's hash marks every 90deg on the dial, with shorter marks inbetween those. Can I start on any of the hash marks, or just the large ones?

 

So....I can set the DRO for 0?....that way when I back out at the end of the cut, I can move back to the right and return to 0, then run the compound in a bit for the next cut?

 

I think the other challenge is that I changed the gears to get the slowest feed possible....but it's not a combination that's listed in the charts. I guess I'll have to change them back?

 

I have sheered the pin once on the other drive rod. I replaced it with a piece of brass dowel. I'm assuming there's a sheer pin in the lead screw as well.

 

I'm getting the itch to turns some threads!! I know I can turn them...question is can I turn ones I can use!!

 

Since I have a geared head lathe....I could actually setup the tooling on the backside and run in reverse?? :) No chance of crashing? :)

 

I'll have to look tomorrow...I know I bought a nice internal threading bar and inserts...I can't remember if I bought an external.

[Duke]

Mike, manual threading is not that hard to do. Once you get the system down it is basically doing the same thing over and over till you get it right. As far as you comment about the DRO you are on the right track with that.

 

With regards to the threading tool. I have made a few myself and if you have a good grinder they are really easy to make, you just have to have a gauge to make sure that they are the right angle.

[mklotz70]

I'd like to get a tool grinder....just don't have any room for it at all. Maybe I'll see about a better wheel for the grinder I have. I keep a wire wheel with no guard on one side of it. I change it out for a polishing wheel when I want. I could put a nice wheel on there for grinding tools when I need :)

[patrowan]

The marks on the thread dial (there are usually 8, 4 larger and numbered, and 4 smaller unlabeled in between the number marks) are starts for various thread pitches (tpi). If your chasing (cutting) a thread that is divisable by 8 (8,16,24 etc) you can start (close half nuts, pull the lever) on any mark. If it's a odd (5,7,9 etc) or even (2,4,6 etc) then start on a numbered line. If it's a half thread (4 1/2, 3 1/2 etc) then start on either 1 or 3, or 2 or 4. Finally (it's already more info than wanted) if it's a quarter thead (2 1/4, 1 1/4 etc) start on the same number every time. If it's to much to bother with, then just always start on the same number. Some lathes don't have the dial and so the lever can only be engaged in one spot per revolution of the lead screw. This makes for slower, but safer threading. Hope that answers the question.

Pat

[mklotz70]

Awesome! Thanks! I've printed that....I'll put it down on the lathe for when I get a chance to play with it! :)

[MikeRL411]

O.K. Today I did some wheels for a ratsun member. 3 sets, Opened up the bore to fit his many trucks.

The pallet,

Before the machine work. Oh I think I need to change the date on my camera.

Cuttin chips

After the machining

Another shot of the cutting. Just for Mike. He loves this shit. LOL

 

The rule of thumb is that you must leave a distance of one and a half hole diameters between the hole and the outer edge [the bore you just enlarged] otherwise the hole will stress crack out to the edge. Be careful of "enthusiastic" acceleration or you will find that you have cracked one or more bolt holes to the center bore!

[datrod]

The rule of thumb is that you must leave a distance of one and a half hole diameters between the hole and the outer edge [the bore you just enlarged] otherwise the hole will stress crack out to the edge. Be careful of "enthusiastic" acceleration or you will find that you have cracked one or more bolt holes to the center bore!

 

Good to know. But they are going on a 521 that is driven like once a month if that. I'll pass that on to the owner.

[datrod]

O.K. Lets see one of you guys cut this thread on a manual lathe.

Or you could try this one. Cut between to carbide diameters.

Edited March 1, 2009 by datrod