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Pacific coast Datsun

Rims...post what you have & had

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Im running 15x10 -44 cruiser alloys on my 620

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I also just got this set from JApan Carving Wilcox ort2 15x10 -39 that I'm in the process of rebuilding and cleaning them up

 

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Watanabe various things , panasport minilites

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On 9/20/2018 at 10:23 PM, rosso said:

44748520811_54e1993584_b.jpg

 

Western Wheel stamped on back - real name is ??

13 x5.5 replica of ??

 

 

If it says Western it's not a replica,,, it's a Minilite. 

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On ‎9‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 9:00 PM, bananahamuck said:

 

 

If it says Western it's not a replica,,, it's a Minilite. 

If it's stamped Western Wheel, real name is Western Wheel.

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Edited by Tedman
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Thanks Tedman, back when Western Wheel was in business I was on the east coast so had never heard the name. I thought maybe they made them for some other brand - but they are definitely stamped Western Wheel on the inside of the barrel and are 13" x 5 1/2". I haven't found any model # or name anywhere else on the wheel, so thanks for the info.

 

Cheers,

Rosso

 

because my first 510 was red

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Just picked these up for my 620.

SSR 16x8

They will be here tomorrow, at which time they will be disassembled, barrels buffed up, and centers stripped.

Not sure on the color yet, maybe just clear coated, maybe bright red, maybe BBS gold.

Anything except black !

I hate the currant black wheel fad....

 

e51l750-img900x1200-1516370798ngwxzh1049

 

SSR Spiel Stadt in 16x8 -1.

Edited by G-Duax
additional info
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On 3/21/2019 at 6:15 AM, G-Duax said:

Just picked these up for my 620.

SSR 16x8

They will be here tomorrow, at which time they will be disassembled, barrels buffed up, and centers stripped.

Not sure on the color yet, maybe just clear coated, maybe bright red, maybe BBS gold.

Anything except black !

I hate the currant black wheel fad....

 

e51l750-img900x1200-1516370798ngwxzh1049

What color will your truck be?

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I love wheels, it's a pitty they cost so much sometimes; especially after tires are added.  Currently running 14" Riverside R109s that I restored.  Next up is a pair of 15" Work Venette Vegas; I'm still beside myself on a color.  I want to repolish the barrels and then sand down/polish the spokes like I did my Riversides.  The bolts are giving me a hard time though so I just ordered and received an impact driver to try and break them free.  After that, I need to paint my standard issue 14" Watanabes; I believe i'll go with a dark bronze on those.

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Edited by BrandonS
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On ‎3‎/‎22‎/‎2019 at 5:21 AM, BrandonS said:

What color will your truck be?

 

Seeing it's age, and body condition, I'm considering keeping it black, and possibly bed liner instead of paint to help mask the wrinkles.

And right now, wrinkle red is being used sparingly on the engine (cam cover & modified Z-car oval air cleaner), with Vance & Hines red anodized cone head carbs.

 

Those SSR Spiel Stadt wheels look really good with silver centers.

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21 hours ago, G-Duax said:

 

Seeing it's age, and body condition, I'm considering keeping it black, and possibly bed liner instead of paint to help mask the wrinkles.

And right now, wrinkle red is being used sparingly on the engine (cam cover & modified Z-car oval air cleaner), with Vance & Hines red anodized cone head carbs.

 

Those SSR Spiel Stadt wheels look really good with silver centers.

I vote gunmetal

🙂

2ufbns4.jpg

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Glad mine didn't have the center caps....arg !

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18 hours ago, G-Duax said:

Glad mine didn't have the center caps....arg !

 

Can you do Solidworks?  You could easily 3D print up something that’d work. I did that to mod the center console in my car for gauges and it came out pretty nice.  It wasn’t as involved as that, but that center cap isn’t an overly complicated design. If you are just painting the wheels you’d never know once you sanded/primed/painted the center cap.

 

Thats for both pieces. The screw on cap and the plate that goes under it. The center could be done on thinner brushed steel and Then the logo laser etched on. Id Imagine any trophy store could make the metal disc with laser etching. 

Edited by BrandonS

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On 3/20/2019 at 10:15 PM, G-Duax said:

Just picked these up for my 620.

SSR 16x8

They will be here tomorrow, at which time they will be disassembled, barrels buffed up, and centers stripped.

Not sure on the color yet, maybe just clear coated, maybe bright red, maybe BBS gold.

Anything except black !

I hate the currant black wheel fad....

 

 

 

SSR Spiel Stadt in 16x8 -1.

 

Those are bad ass!

Never seen them before...

BBS gold, bronze or silver are my votes!

 

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SSR made this style in either multi-piece, like I have, or one piece cast.

Houser also made the same spoke style.

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On 3/26/2019 at 11:59 PM, G-Duax said:

SSR made this style in either multi-piece, like I have, or one piece cast.

Houser also made the same spoke style.

 

Where you get them from?  I like them. 

Edited by d.p

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Japan.

$614 to my door.

 

I may have bit off more than what time I have to refinish them though.

Yes, they are 3 piece, but SSR welded the pieces together after they were bolted up, so sand blasting the centers will take a lot of masking to protect the lips.

Figured some 1/8" sheet plastic to cover the large areas of the barrels, and some serious masking.

Trouble is, they won't fit into my blast cabinet like the centers would have. 

Already bought new valve stems, and 120 stainless nuts, since the nuts were pretty pitted, although the bolts are still in great shape.

Thinking about just throwing them up on Craig's list to get my money out of them, and then going some other direction.

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On 4/9/2019 at 2:22 AM, G-Duax said:

Japan.

$614 to my door.

 

I may have bit off more than what time I have to refinish them though.

Yes, they are 3 piece, but SSR welded the pieces together after they were bolted up, so sand blasting the centers will take a lot of masking to protect the lips.

Figured some 1/8" sheet plastic to cover the large areas of the barrels, and some serious masking.

Trouble is, they won't fit into my blast cabinet like the centers would have. 

Already bought new valve stems, and 120 stainless nuts, since the nuts were pretty pitted, although the bolts are still in great shape.

Thinking about just throwing them up on Craig's list to get my money out of them, and then going some other direction.

 

Nice man.  I paid $645 or so for mine shipped from Poland than paid $400 to have them painted so $1000 for just the wheels.  I didn't touch the lips or anything else as they are good shape.  Shit adds up for them even if you got a deal initially. 

 

Strange with my wheels because they are 2 piece but I couldn't get them separated.  In the end I just had the faces painted over and for the most part they came out great.  Probably one of the nicer parts on my truck.  I like those wheels but not enough negative offset for me.  I prefer something less so they are flush with the fenders.  

 

Went from this:

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To this:

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Edited by d.p
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While trying to figure out how to not to sand blast the barrels, while stripping the centers, I got to wondering if there was actually a masking tape meant for the job.

Did a search on google, and found that people were using Gorilla tape, or hull preservation tape.

The gorilla stuff had an issue with leaving adhesive behind, so people were pre-masking them with painter's tape first.

The hull tape didn't have that issue.

So I bought a roll of "Dr. Shrink" 4" wide, and will give it a try.

The stuff is 10 mil thick, so I'll see how it goes.

I'll just buy a couple of bags of play sand, and do it in the yard, instead of my blast cabinet.

 

Here is the tape on eBay: Hull preservation tape

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Pardon me for highjacking this thread, just a quick question... anyone know what this rim is called or where it came from? Protrusions in bold type include '15x8J', '54692', 'DOT-T', 'MAX. LOAD' '2200 lbs', 'MC VIA', 'PCD' and some other compressionary stamped numbers. Possibly a manufacturing date 13 12 79 located on the rims outer lip surface. Any help greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

IMG-0637.jpg

 

 

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On 4/13/2019 at 2:18 AM, G-Duax said:

While trying to figure out how to not to sand blast the barrels, while stripping the centers, I got to wondering if there was actually a masking tape meant for the job.

Did a search on google, and found that people were using Gorilla tape, or hull preservation tape.

The gorilla stuff had an issue with leaving adhesive behind, so people were pre-masking them with painter's tape first.

The hull tape didn't have that issue.

So I bought a roll of "Dr. Shrink" 4" wide, and will give it a try.

The stuff is 10 mil thick, so I'll see how it goes.

I'll just buy a couple of bags of play sand, and do it in the yard, instead of my blast cabinet.

 

Here is the tape on eBay: Hull preservation tape

 

My Riversides were built the same way. The center was wedged between the barrels and welded; it was common practice back in the day for JDM wheels. 

When I redid mine I did quite a bit of googling up front. There’s always more than one way to skin a cat, but here’s the process I settled on for mine. 

 

1.  Clean the wheel with some dawn and water.  Also remove all the hardware.  As you can see in the picture below, mine were all rusty.  I'd plan on putting new valve stems in too or at a minimum getting new rubber seals for the one you have if you plan to reuse it.

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2.  Fix any curb rash you have.  I followed this tutorial.  It was very easy and worked well.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/automotive-care-and-detailing/507574-diy-polished-lip-curb-rash-fix-it-now.html

 

3.  If you look at the picture above you can see the cloudiness.  You cannot polish this out.  It's either a clear coating or an anodized coating that is failing.  You need to remove this so you can get to and polish the bare aluminum.  In my case it was anodized.  I tried sanding it, but it was WAY too time consuming; basically borderline impossible.  Since I knew I needed to strip this anodizing or whatever coating, along with the paint on the center section, I chose to strip them with EZ Off Oven Cleaner. Make sure to get the Yellow topped can as the Blue kind doesn't have the correct chemical in it. It will remove the anodizing and most paints.  For my wheel it worked on the clear coating but not so much the paint. Yours look spray bombed so I’m willing to bet it’ll take that right off. It can eat aluminum if left on for a long period of time.  I broke up the applications into 5 minute periods; spray it on, wait 5 minutes, rinse it off, lightly scrub with some 000 steel wool.  Rinse and repeat until it's bare aluminum.

 

4. Sand, sand, sand and then sand some more. Mine had pitting on the barrel faces so I had to sand them down quite a bit. I went from 400 grit upto 2000 in steps. I wetsanded each step; I think it just makes it more uniform and less aggressive.  You can tell when each step is done because the resistance on your sand paper will go down.  Don't try to skimp on sand paper; when you think you need a new piece, just get a new piece.  

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5. I then sanded the faces of the spokes with a sanding block.  For the rear I actually used a Porter Cable Oscillating tool with a sanding disc.  That made it go way faster.  Same thing applies though, go through the different grits in order.

 

6.  Clean them well.  Sanding leaves behind a residue that is not nice for polishing.  If you don't clean it up now, you'll continually be battling scratches from it reappearing.

 

7.  Polish everything. I bought a bench polisher, wheels, and a stand off Amazon. None were the most expensive but they made polishing it all a bunch easier.  I also tried a drill adapter for the wheels; save your time and money, it just doesn't have the required speed or torque.  Wear a mask and probably eye protection.  You'll be covered in black dust made of aluminum dust and abrasives... this is not the kind of stuff you want in your eyes or lungs.  Do some googling on the process.  It's fairly easy though, you add the compound and push against it.  I always tried to stay on the bottom quarter to keep it from kicking back.  Also, I used a flat tip screw driver occasionally to clear the wheel up.

I do not get anything if you buy these, just want to share what I used.  It was fairly cost effective and I have been able to use it for my grill, valve covers, and various other things since I've had it.

Bench Polisher - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BW8UOHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stand - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPFITWA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wheel/Compounds Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QXI9VW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

 

A polished and unpolished wheel:

otLu7rh.jpg

 

8.  After going through the 3 stages of buffing wheels/resins I used a Mothers Powerballs for a drill for final polishing. It did a nice job finishing it out.  I have to buy a new one, but I think this will be all that is required for maintenance from this point forward.

AgIGFTW.jpg

 

9.  Clean with dawn and water. This will remove all the residue and the dawn is good at breaking down grease.  This is an important step for the paint to adhere. 

 

10.  Mask and paint. Since my wheels already had a pretty rough texture I just painted them. It’s held up fine for the last year or so.  I do wish I had cleared them because brake dust is discoloring the paint.  I wasn't sure on color so I tried two different.

 

http://i.imgur.com/SKN4Ojv.gifv

 

*Sorry I have no idea how to embed an animated GIF on imgur

 

11.  Install new hardware.  Just take a bolt to the hardware store and get the specs for size, thread pitch, length.  They have those little things you can screw your bolt into to check your size/thread pitch.  I originally had stainless steel bolts in, but ended up ordering some titanium bolts through AliExpress.  Wanted to see how the Neochrome finish would look.

 

DmWI3PL.jpg

Edited by BrandonS
Added clarification and more info for some steps
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