A Certain Blue 510

[UnderControl]

Now I want to model up a replacement arm rest/door pull for the 620. 

[Dguy210]

12 hours ago, iceman510 said:

Any plans to cover with vinyl or dress those up in any way, or use as is?

 

Probably use as is, I'd worry any coating applied would wear off. I'm probably going to reprint without the carbon fiber finish and in ASA-CF instead of PETG.

[Dguy210]

6 hours ago, UnderControl said:

Now I want to model up a replacement arm rest/door pull for the 620. 

It's the same armrest (or at least interchangeable) on the 510 and 620, probably a few other models too (1200, maybe B210). You just want the file?

 

[UnderControl]

39 minutes ago, Dguy210 said:

You just want the file?

 

 

Appreciate it, although I could really use the excuse to get more seat time modeling.

[Dguy210]

Reprinted in ASA-CF and ditched the carbon fiber pattern as the plate seemed to have poor adhesion (also different printers used).  

 

[ggzilla]

Looks good. ASA-CF should hold up in the sun, but is it soft to the touch like the original arm rests?

[Dguy210]

3 hours ago, ggzilla said:

Looks good. ASA-CF should hold up in the sun, but is it soft to the touch like the original arm rests?

 

No, hard plastic. ASA is very similar to ABS and very resistant to UV, also I garage all the Datsuns anyways so not much of an issue. The CF (carbon fiber 10%) mostly gives it a very matte finish and improves stiffness and printability some (warping).  This is printed such that the layer lines are 90 degrees to the bolts (face down basically) so the direction of pulling is against the continuous filament and perpendicular to the layer lines (30% gyroid infill). The small door pulls are already nearly unbreakable and at this size the bolts will pull through or break long before the handle does. ASA-CF is considered a relatively strong engineering filament with good stability and pretty common for interior car parts exposed to harsh environments but requires some special setup for printing. This one was printed on the QIDI Q1 Pro since that can handle the more exotic stuff (doesn't do multi-material though).

 

I did think about printing it as a multi-material (really multi-pieces more likely due to some advantages with that approach) with a hard plastic interior and TPU outer cover but not really needed. I had a wood one on my 1200 for years and it really doesn't seem to matter. I might modify it that way later just because I can and it would be closer to the original but not a high priority. If I do that I'd likely add some color or a pattern to it. There are a couple of angles on the interior of the handle I might also chamfer in the model as after some testing I can see improvement, but for right now I'm considering this done. Right and Left are the same. 

 

In other news I dug out a different later steering wheel I had that fits the horn pad/ring I have and put that on tonight but need to figure out how to get the horn to work with it (some bits missing that I will need to make or rob from the other wheel). My aftermarket steering wheel (which came with the pile of parts for the car) turned out not to be compatible with the Grant adaptor unfortunately.

Edited October 24, 2025 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

Mostly for fun, I'll probably source a real one at a later point. But no reason it shouldn't work.

 

[ggzilla]

Looks like a real mirror to me! I have thought about fitting a day/night mirror like the 1980s Datsun had

[Dguy210]

12 hours ago, ggzilla said:

Looks like a real mirror to me! I have thought about fitting a day/night mirror like the 1980s Datsun had

 

Seems to work. Mostly made it because all the aftermarket mirrors I saw seemed to suck and were expensive and I was going to use the clip-on mirror over them anyways. The mounting on a 510 is basically the same 3 bolt pattern used on a lot of vehicles up through the 90s. However, all the later mirrors use the same 3 bolts to mount a base to the roof, 1 bolt to mount the stalk to the base to allow it to breakaway for safety.  

 

Only worry I have is I might have to adjust it a bit or it might end up too wobbly when driving. I printed it in the strongest orientation possible out of PETG and the weight is pretty minimal. I guess where it is directly exposed to the Sun that a hot day in a hot parking lot might cause it to warp. So likely will work, the mirror part is the standard clip-on aftermarket I like (not a fan of wink mirrors). I'm half tempted to use the 3D printed mount and cast it out of metal (zamak or pewter), because I have all the materials to do that just haven't gotten off my ass yet to do so. Original would have been pot metal most likely or a zinc alloy (don't think it is aluminum) so the zamak would be a good fit. 

Edited October 26, 2025 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

Got the later (non-68 steering wheel) mounted up. It is OK but not quite in as good shape as the 68 one, but I do have a horn pad to finish it off. 

For the horn ring I initially ended up remaking the plastic adapter clips it used but the threads for them were pretty shot so ended up retapping the holes in the steering wheel for larger bolts and padding it out. The internal bits for the horn are missing on this steering wheel and while I could have rigged something up to make it work like stock I'm not a fan of the horn button there anyways (I tend to bump it on my other cars) so I will be going a different route (button on column most likely for a loud aftermarket horn). Pic showing assembly before I cleaned the wheel and pad up.

 

[Dguy210]

90s Pathfinder mirror, needed to model a bottom cover for it though (this is the draft piece for fitment check, reprinting now). Most 90s Nissans use the same 3 bolt pattern as the 510, this is what I could find at the Pick N Pull, also day-night function which is nice. 

 

 

[Dguy210]

Finished up and mirror installed.

[ggzilla]

Looks perfecto. And the day/night lever lets you flip it down when you want to ignore the glaring lights behind the car

[Dguy210]

Made some 3D printed knobs for the windshield washer and headlights. Both lock in and stay nicely due to a somewhat complex internal geometry. I'll update the model with the appropriate image in a different color material and reprint.

 

Also, been doing some test fires of the engine (kicks right off) found out the brand new radiator I have leaks from one row near the bottom. Mechanical fuel pump was also dead, pulled one from an '82 720 at the local Pick-N-Pull today and cleaned it up and installed it. As those pumps have a hard to remove return line as part of the inlet (the way the metal inlet bends means taking the whole pump apart to remove it) ended up making and running new lines for an in engine bay return (I've used a similar system on my B210 for about 20 years now). Forgot to take pics though. 

Currently trying to decide what I want to do about the radiator at this point, will probably try patching the pinhole at first and see how that holds up as I'm really not looking forward to draining and pulling it right now.

Edited November 9, 2025 by Dguy210

[DARIN 510]

Those armrest came out pretty good. It would be even cooler if you had scan of an original 510 armrest and to where you could put chrome strip in it. Just throwing some ideas out there.

[Dguy210]

On 11/9/2025 at 12:10 AM, Dguy210 said:

Made some 3D printed knobs for the windshield washer and headlights. Both lock in and stay nicely due to a somewhat complex internal geometry. I'll update the model with the appropriate image in a different color material and reprint.

 

Also, been doing some test fires of the engine (kicks right off) found out the brand new radiator I have leaks from one row near the bottom. Mechanical fuel pump was also dead, pulled one from an '82 720 at the local Pick-N-Pull today and cleaned it up and installed it. As those pumps have a hard to remove return line as part of the inlet (the way the metal inlet bends means taking the whole pump apart to remove it) ended up making and running new lines for an in engine bay return (I've used a similar system on my B210 for about 20 years now). Forgot to take pics though. 

Currently trying to decide what I want to do about the radiator at this point, will probably try patching the pinhole at first and see how that holds up as I'm really not looking forward to draining and pulling it right now.

 

Tested a refinishing technique with these.....

Edited November 13, 2025 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

 Horn button installed, this ties into the original dash horn wiring so is reversible if I feel like making the horn work from the steering wheel again.

 

Also started installing door cards, cleaned these up and even reinstalled the plastic barrier behind each.

 

I also coated the fiberboard backing of each with a clear coat to prevent potential warping due to water. As with a running theme with this car I had mismatched parts again, where I had 4 door cards but 3 of them were front and only 1 back. For some reason many of the parts for the driver's side passenger door are missing (latch, door card etc...). Not shown but I also reglued in all the weatherstripping for the outer glass channel to the chrome trim pieces, except once again that same door which is missing. 

Replacement door panel will show up Monday and get cleaned, prepped and installed. Mostly just need more of the window crank retaining clips to get everything installed. 

Edited November 16, 2025 by Dguy210

[Rustbin]

Funny, same thing on my '69, trim piece for holding the top of the door card and maybe handle as well for the left rear door. I'm gonna have to check if the parts car has those pieces. Otherwise your doors look good. 

[Dguy210]

16 minutes ago, Rustbin said:

Funny, same thing on my '69, trim piece for holding the top of the door card and maybe handle as well for the left rear door. I'm gonna have to check if the parts car has those pieces. Otherwise your doors look good. 

 

Thanks. I ended up just making the door pulls and arm rests myself. Strangely enough I have extra of the trim pieces for the top of the door card. I did end up picking up a batch of other parts as a lot for the window cranks and door openers so now I have extra (plus some other bits).  

 

I've found a pretty good way to clean all the black plastic and vinyl here too. Gunk safe for plastic foaming spray engine cleaner and Sprayaway glass cleaner with a soft plastic bristle brush. Makes the plastic come out looking pretty good. The Sprayaway is sort of an awesome gentle and no residue cleaner too, it has quickly become one of my favorites. Supposedly you can use to clean paint between coats too.

 

[bradicuss]

I have used this restorer on my plastic and vinyl parts. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer. Really like how it brings things back to life.

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/TriNova-Plastic-Trim-Restorer-Motorcycles/dp/B01AAZ1OAE?crid=9EI0WNSJQXBV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GAkHSelAuSGlqjUWnkpLxcN6L9kCrg0wyVbMiESdxqywkO9vNo6iszRGV66bU5U6elM6lpnHZR3Z1wOpyLpo6ZVFu-VHRpKYPQk51SBqwtsVPDbMjSbknVI0hNZ4rkHAdPB_j0xaEhc0Tuxh6iyeoaY2Q8GC1SgJXgtanRDTFBxBHkYxNH53BIG2Zy6s3zuKig81b2dHGSk38ETxodaR5hGqfgjZ_DqWoppHp_9qEqlhcGsapJOVBqqSbEzDWM7TT2fT11Tbj__nEyYulsw8h2WLO3HwgjVoU1O9NJ8rsfU.u1Zash1EV8stPabusZq1fO66UpoE20tMFT90BtRjLJQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=plastic%2Brestorer%2Bfor%2Bcars&qid=1763400181&sprefix=plastic%2Brestorer%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-39&th=1

 

 

 

 

[Dguy210]

Retaining clips came in so all 4 door cards installed now. Still need to dig up screws to install the other ashtray though. Seats will go in last as I'm still finalizing the underdash stuff and it is easier to work with them not in the way.

 

Work in progress, this will definitely change. Test pieces for some extra functionality without cutting the frame. Hard to tell from the pic but these are all slightly angled towards the driver too. I'm working on redesigning the delete plate a bit to match better (this is based off the 620/1200 delete plate). Center USB is a pass through and was originally going to go to an input on a hidden headless BT radio but I'll likely just ditch it instead. Trying to decide if I want to work the controls for BT/USB radio unit into the delete plate. Pretty much accidentally going a roundabout way of building a more functional radio system. Not sure which way I really want to go. I found on the 1200 for example I rarely ever play music and on the B210 I use CDs mostly on the 20+ yr old Blaupunkt San Jose (I had hacked a aux in to the CD changer years ago). For the 510 I'm still up the air, I kind of want to play CDs but could also just use BT through the phone, heck if I could find an old 8-track that worked and fit I'd do that (they're objectively awful but I kind of dig them). 

Edited November 22, 2025 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

Heavily revised version. This does not require any modification to the existing center console. The currently empty hole will have an USB adapter plug that hasn't arrived yet. Each hole is threaded internally to reduce clearance issues on the back side due to how they are clustered. All 3 have a 10 degree tilt towards the driver. Printed in PETG.

I could probably throw a Ratsun logo or 510 on it but I think the less cluttered look is better. 

Edited November 24, 2025 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

Seats in and interior basically done for now, some minor stuff I'll probably continue to modify though as I can't leave well enough alone. Still need to come up with some sun visors, might refurb and reuse the ones from my B210 if I can't find some Z car ones. Still need to vacuum the carpet to get all the little bits of stuff leftover.

 

Went with the same type of GPS speedometer I used for the 1200, I'll sort out finding a speedometer cable and changing out the transmission gear sometime never. Decided to just make some brackets to hang a BT speaker setup under the glovebox instead of go for something more complicated, battery recharges off an integrated USB supply that comes on with the ignition, will also run off a USB stick if I want to keep it simple.

 

Transmission and diff filled with gear lube and fuel system also hooked up, still need some minor tweaking here and there but everything is functional. Next up is sorting out some type of exhaust.

 

Edited November 30, 2025 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

How I fixed the 510 glove box hinge. Materials needed: thin aluminum foil tape, I used one from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-x-50-yard-flame-retardant-aluminum-foil-tape-96372.html), also just generally useful. My hinge was only just barely attached but this should also work if it has completely broken off. 

 

Basic procedure: took the various fasteners off to remove the door from the box portion. Pictures show the various fasteners. I then put 2 pieces of the tape on the hinge slightly off set with the hinge bent down to the maximum position with the door open. I cleaned the plastic with some isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel to get good adhesion. The screws for the door are then put through the metal tape when reassembling to give a better hold.