A Certain Blue 510

[]2eDeYe]

Nice work 

[Dguy210]

All put together now. Edit: I'm also realizing I'm likely missing some spring top rubber bits. I'll have to make some.

Edited January 16, 2025 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

Modified a B210 accelerator pedal for the 510 with a standoff and multiple bends to align the pedal. Still will need a thread type adapter for the cable at the firewall hole, I'll design up and make one later to use a standard throttle cable.

Edited February 1, 2025 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

Battery moved to trunk (and yes it is bolted in). 2 gauge all copper American made wire. Did a power on test and no magic smoke was released, some dash stuff worked but others still missing enough bits that I can't tell yet. Battery is group 24 and this is just an old one I have for testing purposes, holds a charge but not trustable enough for daily use in a car, so really just for stuff around the shop. I'm waiting on the cutoff switch and 12v cig socket and voltmeter/USB charging port to arrive in the mail. The top will look like the second pic when I'm done as my just copying what I did before (this is from the 1200). The short wiring harness bit to the lights is actually out of a B210 hatch which weirdly has the same connector and wiring setup as far as I can tell so is a direct replacement.

 

 

Edited February 10, 2025 by Dguy210

[Rustbin]

Your setup is nice. I'm not at this point with my '72 510 yet and was just wondering if your ran the cable inside the car and through the firewall and to the starter or if you're using a bulkhead connector or block at the other end? In my '69 I have a cable that just reaches the firewall and was planning to get a bulkhead connector but never ran across a suitable one and it's been almost 40 years. I'll get to that car next. (I my have said that before)

[Dguy210]

1 hour ago, Rustbin said:

Your setup is nice. I'm not at this point with my '72 510 yet and was just wondering if your ran the cable inside the car and through the firewall and to the starter or if you're using a bulkhead connector or block at the other end? In my '69 I have a cable that just reaches the firewall and was planning to get a bulkhead connector but never ran across a suitable one and it's been almost 40 years. I'll get to that car next. (I my have said that before)

 

No bulkhead connector as I didn't really feel it was needed as everything disconnects with one bolt just near the firewall anyways. Cable runs out hole in firewall the original harness ran in which is about a foot above the starter so it runs down to the starter (thick matte red cable)  and then I tap another cable off that through a resettable fuse in the original fusebox location to run power back through the firewall (thick shiny red cable; this was leftover from the 1200 and is Cu coated Al so not as a high a current limit as the gauge would indicate) into a set of fuseboxes one for always on and one for Ign on. 

 

Edited February 10, 2025 by Dguy210

[Rustbin]

Sweet, Thank you.

[Dguy210]

Battery box and cutoff wired in. USB charging and a spare 12v socket. Been troubleshooting the engine wiring harness and fuse boxes I basically made from scratch using this as I now have power. Most stuff worked and no smoke was let out but still some gremlins to chase down (pretty much know which wire to go after now, just need the time).  Also, turned out the dash harness appears to actually be a '68 not a '71 with the 4 pin turn signal switch. As I had a broken 4 pin turn signal switch and a good 6 pin turn signal switch I sat down with a meter and a wiring diagram and made an adapter connector.  Still waiting on new ignition switch/key and stalk as the one that came with the car was missing the electrical bit and was damaged badly enough to not be usable (been jumpering it to test with currently).

 

 

Mechanically:

Bled all the brakes and master, but the brake lights are not working yet (rear light harness does come on for headlights but no hazards/turn signal or brake light for the rear). Got an accelerator cable installed from a 720 (flange mounts easily to firewall and right length for Z22 engine) mostly just something in the parts stash that I made work though.

 

I could start the engine now but would have to rig up a fuel line to a gas can as still no fuel cell or gas tank. As far as running/driving it mostly needs a clutch slave cylinder, lines bled, and driveshaft installed. I have all of these just haven't gotten that far yet. The dash is mostly still apart except for instrument cluster and heater core (blower motor does work too!) and the interior basically doesn't exist yet. 

Edited February 26, 2025 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

Accelerator cable is out of a 720 and modified to work with the B210 pedal. Rear light wiring harness is modified lightly from a B210 sedan, mostly plug compatible too, just a bit short so had to lengthen it as it was a bit tight. Rear brake lights work now, turn signals work, rear lights come on with headlights (both positions).  Also got the clutch slave cylinder installed and bled (need a helper to check it functions though). Still need to sort out temp gauge and chg light but the electrical is mostly sorted. Will wire up the wiper motor at some point also. Didn't get much time except Sunday night in the shop as house repairs came first (backed up toilet and dryer problems) which took Friday/Saturday to sort out. 

[Dguy210]

Look like the next thing to source is a 510 dashpad, probably a beat up one I can redo.

Driveshaft in, drivetrain basically done.

 

Gas tank test fit, need a bigger piece of steel angle iron which I don't currently have. Not sure if it should be hard mounted or soft mounted though, figure hard mounted is better.

[Dguy210]

All bolted in, welded up a bottom mount (goes across front and down both sides) and top cross strap supporting it across the corners and tied into the original mount. Still some stuff to do to finish it up though.

[Draker]

What tank is this?

[Dguy210]

5 minutes ago, Draker said:

What tank is this?

Ebay: pretty standard 17gal (14 realistically) tank. I used some coupons and got it for $91, had to trim 1/4 inch or so off the side brackets but otherwise fit well.

Similar models and this actual seller are all over Amazon also for about $120-150.

Note: doesn't actually include foam. https://www.ebay.com/itm/286103502396

[ggzilla]

23 minutes ago, Dguy210 said:

pretty standard 17gal (14 realistically) tank

14 realistically. I know some people never run below 1/4 tank, is that what you mean?

[Dguy210]

23 minutes ago, ggzilla said:

14 realistically. I know some people never run below 1/4 tank, is that what you mean?

 No, given the dimensions of 17x9x29 inches the maximum volume would be 14.94 gallons so realistically 14 gallons accounting for filling, foam, and sender volume. 

 

[ggzilla]

Sheesh, a "17 gallon" tank that holds less than 15 gallons. Well, it's still bigger than the stock tank 🙂

[Dguy210]

1 hour ago, ggzilla said:

Sheesh, a "17 gallon" tank that holds less than 15 gallons. Well, it's still bigger than the stock tank 🙂

Yep, which is like 11 gal I think, but more importantly the previous owner shaved the gas tank door so I can't really use the stock tank anyways... and I'm cheap. I'll probably remote the filler to the edge of the trunk to make it easier to put gas in, but it is totally usable right now. 

 

Probably something like this, but I'll likely build it myself as it is damn expensive for what it is.

 

Edited May 3, 2025 by Dguy210

[Rustbin]

I just thought about the 1970 Hakosuka gas filler, that would be cool. It would be a bit of work though.

 

[Rustbin]

Just checked my book, fuel capacity 10 imperial gal, 45.5 liters or 12 US gallons.

[Dguy210]

On 5/2/2025 at 7:05 PM, Rustbin said:

I just thought about the 1970 Hakosuka gas filler, that would be cool. It would be a bit of work though.

 

 

Is that a behind the license plate style? I had actually thought about something like that, or behind a center emblem like I had on my Mach 1. Just couldn't figure out how to mount it high enough to drain into the tank and not look weird. Will be a open the trunk type fill instead. 

[Rustbin]

I couldn't find a good picture so I'll post my quick sketch. The filler door is at the forward left corner of the trunk opening, to do that on a 510 would require modifying the lid and the hinge, then making a filler door with a panel that allows the trunk lid to seal fuel and fumes. Quite a bit of work but really cool to people who like Hako's.

 

[Dguy210]

3 hours ago, Rustbin said:

I couldn't find a good picture so I'll post my quick sketch. The filler door is at the forward left corner of the trunk opening, to do that on a 510 would require modifying the lid and the hinge, then making a filler door with a panel that allows the trunk lid to seal fuel and fumes. Quite a bit of work but really cool to people who like Hako's.

 

Ahh, I see, and now that you mention it I can see it in the image you posted. I'm trying to avoid any metalwork that would mess up the paint. Also, that just seems unnecessarily complex. I will probably eventually mount a remote fill port in the corner but under the trunk hood, so you'd still need to open the trunk but it would be right there. 

[ggzilla]

@Dguy210, can you route the filler hose over to the stock 510 filler door location?

 

@Rustbin, thanks for the sketch. I didn't know the C10 Skyline had this feature, but then I've only seen two of them in my life and was distracted by the engine and the surf profile

 

 

[Rustbin]

@ggzilla Those are the pictures I was looking for but they didn't show in my search, I haven't seen any in real life but I've watched a You Tube build and have seen enough pictures to want to have one.

 

@Dguy210 Your plan makes the most sense, no body work, no paint matching, just open the trunk.

 

It would be cool though.

[Dguy210]

6 hours ago, ggzilla said:

@Dguy210, can you route the filler hose over to the stock 510 filler door location?

 

@Rustbin, thanks for the sketch. I didn't know the C10 Skyline had this feature, but then I've only seen two of them in my life and was distracted by the engine and the surf profile

 

 

 

 

@ggzilla There is no longer a stock 510 filler door location. They shaved it completely. I could do a surface mount style on the side body or similar but that looks way too racecar in my opinion. It would be simple and easy to cover the necessary hole in the body and it would work... but I just don't like it.

 

@Rustbin That is kind of cool the way that works. But totally violates the K.I.S.S principle and my complete lack of wanting to do bodywork on an already painted car. 

 

So it will be an open trunk to fill for right now.