Help identifying what PO did

[280Dan]

So the PO was in the process of rebuilding this truck before I bought it so I’m looking to see if you guys can help my identify what I have, what’s missing or what needs to be changed. It has the original engine but I believe he put on a redline carb. I don’t think it’s properly tuned and that’s something else I’ll need to tackle. But he started removing emissions components which I’m fine with but I don’t think it’s running great.
 

Some things I’ve recently experienced: After filling up with gas it just cranks/no start. I have to let it sit for a few minutes and after a few attempts it’ll start (possible purge issue?)

At highway speeds it feels like it’s randomly misfiring. Not sure how to determine if that’s an air/fuel issue or a spark issue. I’m going to change the plugs right now and get a set of wires since they look real old anyway

Any help is appreciated 

[datzenmike]

The fuel return line is missing. It will run without it but...

 

Where's the fuel filter???

 

 The hose with the spark plug in it should be sealed off better than that.

 

There should be a small hose from the intake below the front of the carburetor where the fuel line connects to the thermostat housing where it joins the by pass hose down the front of the engine. Look for the head ID cast into the bottom edge between plug 1 and 2. Should be W58 and they had the water cooled intake. Can you see if it's been closed off at the intake? 

 

Lose the fram filter, never use them. WIX or NAPA Gold are good.

 

I use Rotella T4 a 10w30 oil still high in ZDDP. Up to you but all oils made today have about half the ZDDP levels of 30 years ago.

 

Plugs look dirty but maybe burning oil? Have to drive it some to find out. NGK BPR6ES-11 are ok

 

Plug wires don't really have an expiration date. Visually inspect them. If they look damaged they are no good. Mine came with my car and every year I pull them off and wipe clean with a WD-40 soaked rag. They are over 12 years old and look great. Only use NGK plugs.... and wires if possible.

[280Dan]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

The fuel return line is missing. It will run without it but...

 

Where's the fuel filter???

Yikes

 

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

There should be a small hose from the intake below the front of the carburetor where the fuel line connects to the thermostat housing where it joins the by pass hose down the front of the engine. Look for the head ID cast into the bottom edge between plug 1 and 2. Should be W58 and they had the water cooled intake. Can you see if it's been closed off at the intake?
 

 

I’m assuming the short rubber hose with the bolt in it?

 

Not sure what’s supposed to be going on here 

 

 

Also looks like an “upgraded” alternator…problem is it must be larger than the oem because it’s so tight up against the coolant hose I can’t slide it either way if I need to get the belt off

[datzenmike]

 

The hose with the bolt in it should connect to the fitting on the thermostat housing. Or there should be a metal pipe with a Y in it. One to the thermostat, one to the intake and the bottom down to the radiator hose. It'll work like this but again it isn't right like this. The purpose of the coolant flow through the intake is to warm the air when it's cold and to draw away radiant heat from the hot exhaust in very warm weather.

 

 

 

 

The blue plug line should connect to the missing connection on the charcoal canister below. The disconnected hose goes to a TEE on the vacuum advance line to the distributor.

 

 

Probably a '70s 50 amp car alternator which are physically larger than the truck's 38 amp alternator. Car's don't have a frame or and idler arm below it that get in the way.

 

[280Dan]

So there is only a single line going from the distributor to the carb. You’re saying to put a t fitting in there and also connect the purge line to the distributor as well? So there’s one going to the carb and one to the purge both coming from the dizzy?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Hot start with a Weber (or many old carb'd vehicles) is sometimes helped by leaning into the throttle gently while cranking. Don't pump the pedal, juist gradually press it slowly. I bet it will fire right up.

[datzenmike]

2 hours ago, 280Dan said:

So there is only a single line going from the distributor to the carb. You’re saying to put a t fitting in there and also connect the purge line to the distributor as well? So there’s one going to the carb and one to the purge both coming from the dizzy?

 

The carburetor is the vacuum source. There is none at idle and a varying vacuum signal depending on engine load (throttle) The vacuum simply tells the charcoal canister that the engine is running and above idle and to 'purge' or allow the stored fumes to be drawn into the blue capped intake manifold fitting. The varying vacuum signal adds ignition advance at light throttle and removes it under heavier loads.

[Thomas Perkins]

It could be bad piston rings or a blown head gasket.