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510 L series motor mount brackets


obrut

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Are either one of these motor mount brackets right for a 1972 510?  I know the driver side is missing the motor mount, i took it off so I could just get the engine to sit in the car for now.  Obviously something is wrong I just don't which one or is it both?

mount.thumb.jpg.2cc90cd8ba167301ffdfa8931b6ed66c.jpg

 

mount1.thumb.jpg.ed69dead2609b6c9a12671ef37ac90ea.jpg

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Its a L16, I bought new rubber isolators but I've never had an engine in the car, it was a basket case when I bought it and those were the brackets that came with it.  The rest of the engine was in pieces on the floor when I brought it home.  Just started putting it back together so I have no reference point because its always been in pieces.

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Try loosening all the fasteners to allow everything to be adjustable. Get the other isolator in place and connected, then tighten all the bolts and nuts. I've had to do this with my 620 truck. The isolators form a V and the engine brackets just don't really line up with the threaded studs. Once tightened down it should be ok it's just getting to that point that's the problem.

 

 

The reason I asked is that's an A87 head which has a larger combustion chamber than the stock L16 head. This will lower the compression. If it's a closed chamber head the compression will be 8.2 if open chamber it's worse at 7.72

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Ill give that a shot and see if I can get them to line up.  I was trying to find pictures of the brackets and it looks like my driver side bracket is too long compared to what I've seen.

 

Good eye, the A87 head was on a L18 at one point.  I had it milled and a valve job done and I installed flat top pistons in the L16, it has the cam from the L18 and I have a cannon intake with dual DCOE 40s for it.

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The brackets look correct, but there are brackets that look similar with different dimensions (truck?)

 

I like to have one motor mount installed on the block (passenger side) with the isolator bolted to the crossmember. Then install the driver side bracket and isolator loose on the block and lower the motor into place. You'll notice the two holes along side the isolator. Those are for alignment. You can stick a #2 phillips into those holes to help align the isolators onto the crossmember.

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We traded engines about 5 years ago (L20B for L18), but I can't remember if we both left brackets on the blocks or not.  You are not using the L20 block anyway at this point, but do you have more than one set of brackets to compare?

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Seen your PM and then seen this. The L18 block I am using came out of a 510 (98% sure about that) so I will have to do some side by side comparisons I think.

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As mentioned, you MUST use the original 510 oil pan & engine mount brackets on any L series 4cyl engine.  The L20B block is about 3/4in taller, so people often slot the bracket holes to the block, to lower the engine, so it clears the hood.

 

I have heard that some of the 510 aftermarket reproduction rubber mounts are thicker & can cause issues, but the brackets you have do look longer that the 510, so I bet those are the L18 620 brackets!  I have original L16 brackets if you need!

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On 3/27/2023 at 10:44 PM, DARIN 510 said:

Are you using aftermarket bushings or factory Nissan ? I’ve seen alighment issues with aftermarket ones. 

Aftermarket but I just got the correct brackets and now it all bolts up.

 

Here are some side by sides with the brackets I have and the correct 510 brackets

 

Unknown on the left and 510 on the right

20230330_141214_resized.thumb.jpg.5e6035bd0329b965ff04ba0cfdeb9798.jpg

 

Unknown top and 510 on the bottom

20230330_141733_resized.thumb.jpg.5dd5957dbd6b9711581cb50efa1b9599.jpg

 

Does anyone know what the longer ones are from?

 

 

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On 3/22/2023 at 1:39 PM, yenpit said:

As mentioned, you MUST use the original 510 oil pan & engine mount brackets on any L series 4cyl engine.  The L20B block is about 3/4in taller, so people often slot the bracket holes to the block, to lower the engine, so it clears the hood.

 

I have heard that some of the 510 aftermarket reproduction rubber mounts are thicker & can cause issues, but the brackets you have do look longer that the 510, so I bet those are the L18 620 brackets!  I have original L16 brackets if you need!

 

I have never seen anyone Slot the brackets to lower the engine or known anyone to have interference issues with the L20B while using the proper 510 parts.

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Jesse C. said:

 

I have never seen anyone Slot the brackets to lower the engine or known anyone to have interference issues with the L20B while using the proper 510 parts.

 

 

 

I've seen numerous small dents OUT from under the hood, on hoods I have had over the years, right above the valve cover hump.  Wonder if it is only an issue if using the 68-69 valve cover with the ridges raised above the hump surface.............??  Those raised ridges stand about 1/8in above.  I have also heard rumors that the later reproduction rubber engine mounts (ie from Beck Arnley) were thicker & caused some raised height/alignment/fitment issues.....??  Regardless, my suggestion to verify height still stands........don't just slam the hood closed first time!! 👍

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2 hours ago, yenpit said:

 

I've seen numerous small dents OUT from under the hood, on hoods I have had over the years, right above the valve cover hump.  Wonder if it is only an issue if using the 68-69 valve cover with the ridges raised above the hump surface.............??  Those raised ridges stand about 1/8in above.  I have also heard rumors that the later reproduction rubber engine mounts (ie from Beck Arnley) were thicker & caused some raised height/alignment/fitment issues.....??  Regardless, my suggestion to verify height still stands........don't just slam the hood closed first time!! 👍

 

 I know that with the LZ combos, space was certainly an issue 

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57 minutes ago, Jesse C. said:

 

 I know that with the LZ combos, space was certainly an issue 

 

Yup!  When did the Z series deck height raise even more.........Z24?

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I've mentioned this a few times, not on this thread, but here on the forum. The hood can be modified very easily to clear the valve cover. Put a chunk of wood on top of the valve cover and set the hood down gently. Do this a couple times until the hood bends slightly in the middle. Now you've got clearance for the valve cover.

 

This mod doesn't leave any unsightly damage to the hood. The only thing you will notice is a slight rise at the back of the hood, where it meets the cowl. And even that is very slight.

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On 3/31/2023 at 3:08 AM, obrut said:

Aftermarket but I just got the correct brackets and now it all bolts up.

 

Here are some side by sides with the brackets I have and the correct 510 brackets

 

Unknown on the left and 510 on the right

20230330_141214_resized.thumb.jpg.5e6035bd0329b965ff04ba0cfdeb9798.jpg

 

Unknown top and 510 on the bottom

20230330_141733_resized.thumb.jpg.5dd5957dbd6b9711581cb50efa1b9599.jpg

 

Does anyone know what the longer ones are from?

 

 

A 710 has a longer driver side bracket like the one in the photo.

Edited by Abe Froman
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