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King and Link Pin to ball joints and modern brakes


SWFL

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Just compared the isuzu TFR pickup  arms to my blue hands the length and width seem right but the ball joint is a bit more centered on the isuzu so caster might be off a bit.

 

Edit: i didn't buy a isuzu arm, just compared measurements roughly to the ones above and where the ball joint was compared to the center of the cross shaft.

Edited by Moist Lightning
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39 minutes ago, Moist Lightning said:

Just compared the isuzu TFR pickup  arms to my blue hands the length and width seem right but the ball joint is a bit more centered on the isuzu so caster might be off a bit.

 

Edit: i didn't buy a isuzu arm, just compared measurements roughly to the ones above and where the ball joint was compared to the center of the cross shaft.

There appear to be some other years that have obvious caster differences, but I haven't looked at them too closely

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Find a '78-'79 and cut the frame behind the cab and move it to a drum brake truck and mount it, torsion bars and all and weld together. While at it get '83- 720 spindles for the larger calipers and vented rotors. 

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And the 4wd trucks have the balljoint centered in the upper control arm as I recall, but most the problem is the length of the upper control arms, beebanni(how ever it is spelled) made upper and lower control arms out of existing parts, many people bought them, some complained, a some precise welding was involved, the way I did it only the upper control arms were in need of welding and it was easy to do on the bench, I never had it fail either as there is not that much stress put on the upper control arm, but there is stress in one area, the upper control arm mount bolts, them fine thread small bolts are not up to the job, that is why I said them holes need to be drilled out and threaded for 720 mount bolts, this is important as the stock 521 bolts needed to be sleeved or the upper control arm would start moving around as them 5/8" head bolts could only be tightened so tight and either they would break or strip the threads out in the mounts, I eventually bought hardened bolts much longer than stock, stuck them thru the control arm and put them in position, then I put very large washers on the bolt sticking out on other side of the tower, and tightened it all down using a lock nut as the holes were stripped out, after doing this I never had another issue with them mount bolts pulling the threads out or the bolt breaking, I drove my 521 work truck this way for quite some time after that, but the power steering setup I made/fabricated destroyed the frame in that area, I gave up and finally put the work truck cab on a more modern cab/chassis frame.

 

If you have ever seen photos of what I have hauled in my work truck over the years you will understand what I put that truck through, it was just a small highly modified 521 frame that did the work of a large Chevy/Ford/Dodge dually truck, except for them light duty upper control arm mount bolts I would never had an issue with what I did, I am sure the power steering did not help them light duty bolts either, it is safe to do it how I did it(disc brake conversion) as long as the upper control arm mount bolts are addressed.

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