1968 Datsun - Original as it can be....

[Wiz]

First time poster, I have recently purchased a 1968 Datsun 1600 to which I will be re-building to as original as possible.

 

I do not have any set rules just winging it as I go. I have a minor mechanical background but will try my best (builder by trade). I have found these forums extremely helpful and thought that I should share back the love so people can learn from my many mistakes along the way...

 

Current status:

 

I bought the car as a shell

 

I have had it resprayed and had the engine refurbished.

 

I have rebuilt the wiper system, I learnt how rare these things are for the 68 - Searching high and low for a wiper motor. Didn't know what i had until I broke it.

 

Next step fuel system....

 

Hi,

 

 

 

 

 

[Wiz]

Edit - Added images 

[datzenmike]

Flattop pistons. L28 or are they custom?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Nice looking car and motor.

[Wiz]

 L18 Engine but pistons are Hypatec L20 

 

I have photos of the old parts if interested.

[datzenmike]

L20B pistons were very dished. To get flattops we over bore to 86mm and use 280zx ones.

[paradime]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

L20B pistons were very dished. To get flattops we over bore to 86mm and use 280zx ones.

 

That was our solution for a bygone era. Now Rebello Racing and Z Car Depot sell the same Hypatec pistons in 85mm. 

[iceman510]

13 hours ago, paradime said:

 

That was our solution for a bygone era. Now Rebello Racing and Z Car Depot sell the same Hypatec pistons in 85mm. 

 

Interesting.  Just a minor correction- stock ZX bore is 86 and that is the piston size Z Car depot offers, along with 0.020"/ 0.5 mm oversize as well.  This size of course works for L20B with 1 mm overbore.

 

Out of stock currently there. Rebello doesn't have details on their site without calling.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

4 hours ago, iceman510 said:

 

Interesting.  Just a minor correction- stock ZX bore is 86 and that is the piston size Z Car depot offers, along with 0.020"/ 0.5 mm oversize as well.  This size of course works for L20B with 1 mm overbore.

 

Out of stock currently there. Rebello doesn't have details on their site without calling.

Nope, Rebello does not do e-commerce. Or text. Or email.

 

Pick up the phone and call them fro service.

[paradime]

15 hours ago, iceman510 said:

 

Interesting.  Just a minor correction- stock ZX bore is 86 and that is the piston size Z Car depot offers, along with 0.020"/ 0.5 mm oversize as well.  This size of course works for L20B with 1 mm overbore.

 

Out of stock currently there. Rebello doesn't have details on their site without calling.

 

Yeah, I looked on Z Car and 86 only in a set of 6. Hypatec HYP-PNIL20FT40201H is the standard bore L20b flat top piston. Last I checked (2020-ish) Dave was still selling 85mm.

[iceman510]

7 hours ago, paradime said:

 

Yeah, I looked on Z Car and 86 only in a set of 6. Hypatec HYP-PNIL20FT40201H is the standard bore L20b flat top piston. Last I checked (2020-ish) Dave was still selling 85mm.

 

Thanks for that info.  I see they appear to be from Australia.  I wondered why they don't seem readily available in the US.  Would be nice to source them directly.  I can probably use either size for what I am scheming.

 

I will have to check with Rebello and see if he sells them in sets of 4.  I need to call them anyway and find out the build info on the engine in my race car.

[Wiz]

Update:

 

 - Fuel tank Installed 

- Completed some DIY zinc electroplating for the fuel cap and fuel neck filler plate.

- I am starting to realize that I can't get parts, even the substitution parts are unavailable. All the wreckers here don't have vehicle before 2012.

 

Next step is the engine install, hoping to complete over Xmas.

 

 

 

[Wiz]

Questions:

 

Q1: I have read the forums and it looks like there is no point in putting headers unless the engine is heavily modified.

Should I use the original exhaust manifold and if so, what is the best way to restore it. Clean it and ceramic coat it?

 

Q2: Distributor: I have 3 x distributors

 

- Distributor #1 - Is off the L16 engine - similar

- Distributor #2 - I think is from the original L18 engine

- Distributor#3 - Is a replacement - Which will not work because I can't get the pedestal to make it work.

 

I am thinking of using the original distributor L16 or L18 one and using the Pertronix Ignitor, any ideas?

 

Q3: lastly any advice before I put the engine in?

 

Photos below:

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Nissan spent a lot of time and money on the stock 4 into 2 cast manifold and were looking ahead to future performance for road racing. You would have to modify your engine quite a bit before they become a choke point for performance. As I understand it they are good to about 150 hp before a header is needed.

 

I fitted a gasket to my manifold and scratched it's outline in the metal and used a die grinder to trim the holes out to match it. Then I did the same on the head and blended in for over an inch. Best to do this in the intake and ports as well. This removes any miss match or lip. Now you can have it ceramic coated or just leave it. Ceramic coats just look good for much longer than paint. I guess they radiate less heat but that not a problem anyway.

 

 

 

 

I have never seen that style of distributor base. We had the above and various metal plates like above for adjusting.

 

If you can't get the L18 to work, (timing I presume?) you can drop the oil pump and move the internal drive spindle ahead or back a tooth and this will re-position your distributor forward or back into adjustment range. Set engine to TDC compression stroke number one and pull distributor and you should see this...

 

 

That screwdriver blade thing in the middle is the drive spindle and it can be re-positioned to 11:30 or 11:25 and this will change the position of the rotor. 

 

 

But ultimately you need a distributor that a Pertronix will fit. I think that, is a single points.

[banzai510(hainz)]

WiZ

Baz in Adelaid said you dont need headers(extractors were you at) unless all out dual carbed setups.

 

The dists in the US were all Hitachi Japan units in Austrailia I think you had local Bosche made ones.

In the late 80s and early 90s there were tons of import motors brought in with Mitshibishi units also.

Key is having the match dist with the pedastal to have it clocked right. However one maybe can flip a timing plate and make it work from one of the others.

One can line it up and maybe mini clamp it down to get it to run. One could get some alum sheet meatal and find were to lock it down and machine a slot to get the timming one needs.  Remember there is the 8mm bolt on the other side that gives extra movment also to dial it in.

when using a Pertronix use the STOCK point coil and stock ballast or get their Pertronix 3 ohm coil

 

 

hard to judge wat distribtors you have

Edited November 26, 2022 by banzai510(hainz)

[Wiz]

Thanks for the info gents and Happy New Year, hope everyone is having a safe and enjoyable holidays.

 

Update:

 

- Took a break from the distributor but will most likely do a Pertronix system and have an auto elec help me..

 

- Work done:

 

- Engine and gearbox installed

- Installed manifolds - used your advice and did the die-grinder around the outlets

- Tail shaft installed 

- Carburetor Installed

- Other bits and pieces etc 

 

Problems: 

 

The L18 block had the wrong sump had to take the engine out and put a new sump on (lucky I had the L16 engine on hand)

 - Used the L16 oil pick-up - Hopefully it doesn't leak - Sealing a sump makes me nervous.

 

Questions: 

 

- Anyone have any photos of the throttle linkage works for a 32/36?

- Looking for photos of the stock exhaust system

 

Next up:

 

- Clutch Hydraulics

- Exhaust System 

- Cooling system 

 

 

Photos:

 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Throttle linkage - you need to lengthen the shaft by about a inch and a half, or use spacer blocks on the bracket at the firewall. Lengthening the rod is cleaner. Then, you need t make sure you have the right clevis in the carb. The BMW 2002 unit works and is basically what you have and it works, but the stock 510 linkage piece works better and looks better.

 

Beautiful car.

 

Happy New Year!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Also, I hope you used loctite on the carb adapter screws.

[datzenmike]

Get the linkage from a 610 or 710. It's like a collapsible steering column. See mine below? The rubber bellows keeps crap out of the tube and the rod can be pushed back into or extended. As I hear it this was so that it could be used to reach out farther on SU setups

 

[Wiz]

Hello everyone,

 

One year later, back on the car. 

 

Thanks Mike - I will start looking for one. Getting hard to find anything these days.

 

Anyone know the best classifieds for parts in Australia?

 

Got some parts today:

- starter

- alternator 

- speakers (found the style in a datsun accessories brochure from Japan, then found a set in Greece)

- Distributor - I'm using the original Bosch one that does not require any spacers or pedestals. I have ordered a Pertronix Ignitor. This seems to be the best advice.

 

Some general photos, and possible speaker locations. I do not want to cut any of the body to accommodate speakers. 

 

Also has anyone used a Headless audio system, the Memphis looks to tick all the boxes.

 

 

[pidge]

Cool build. Nice and tidy work. 
-Pidge

[None_zero]

On 11/26/2022 at 4:46 AM, Wiz said:

Update:

 

 - Fuel tank Installed 

- Completed some DIY zinc electroplating for the fuel cap and fuel neck filler plate.

- I am starting to realize that I can't get parts, even the substitution parts are unavailable. All the wreckers here don't have vehicle before 2012.

 

Next step is the engine install, hoping to complete over Xmas.

 

 

 

Diy zinc plating sounds fun. I assumed from the pic I was looking at a home made rust removal electrolysis bath...

[Wiz]

39 minutes ago, None_zero said:

Diy zinc plating sounds fun. I assumed from the pic I was looking at a home made rust removal electrolysis bath...

Yea it's pretty easy too.

 

That pic was "priming" the bath, not sure on the terminology. It was zinc anodes on both ends, I did that for 24 hours before I started plating the part.

 

below is a pic of the plating 

 

[Wiz]

3 hours ago, pidge said:

Cool build. Nice and tidy work. 
-Pidge

Thanks 

[None_zero]

Awesome I'll have to give that whirl one day