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Rebuilt L18 with 32/36 Weber


Richie

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Hey, so recently i rebuilt my L18 (thanks to this community) and now i have fuel dumping into the oil pan. Let me tell you what ive done so far 

1. I adjusted the weber three times with three different people who claimed they know webers. My friend who did it last has actual had results and the carb is leaner but still dumping some fuel in the pan.

2. I have changed the oil plenty of times 4 times so far, the engine has 110 miles on in since the rebuild. I dropped the pan also just to change the gasket and also precaution to see whats going on down there. 

3. I have driven it a lot to get the crank as hot as the thermostat can get, 180 degrees. Usually i sit around 160 while driving, idle will get it to 180 and a little over. 

4. I did a leak down test and the engine has no leaks. It almost matches perfectly with psi i am testing with. 70psi. I was told not to go over that. 

 

I know the next step would probably be re jetting the weber. However, I have no freaking clue how to do that or even select the correct size jets. Please help i dont want to ruin my engine. 

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9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The diaphragm in the fuel pump may have ruptured. It then leaks into the timing cover and down into the pan. Pull it off and look for wetness.

I just got a new one off of rockauto, if it is i shouldve got the more expensive one instead. 

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Just now, datzenmike said:

That's the trouble with replacement parts. New... does not guarantee that it is good and cheaper is always cheaper.

 

So new pump before or after the gas problem?

before the gas problem. the other one i also got from rockauto and it leaked so it never pumped gas. The diaphragm was broken so i bought this "new" one off rockauto. 

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2 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

be honest I just bolt webersw carb on and they run fine. 130 135 140 on the main jet is close enough.

 

I would think its the fuel pump. but since you now messed with the float. i dont know.

 

you would think at idle if it was flooding out it would be seem more or at like the choke is on.(best guess trouble shooting here )

So none of my friends that "TUNED" the carb did not mess with the float. Ill try the fuel pump first.

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I heard of 2 issues where one was a over flooded carb that washed out the clyinders(I really didnt believe it)

other is the manual fuel pump where the gas blows by a crack diaphrame and drains in to the oil.

 

I guess one could run a cheap ELECTRIC 2.5/3 pound pump and see then if the carb is still flooding it out. Use a block off plate for where the manual carb was.

maybe zcardepot has these

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2 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

 

I heard of 2 issues where one was a over flooded carb that washed out the clyinders(I really didnt believe it)

other is the manual fuel pump where the gas blows by a crack diaphrame and drains in to the oil.

 

I guess one could run a cheap ELECTRIC 2.5/3 pound pump and see then if the carb is still flooding it out. Use a block off plate for where the manual carb was.

maybe zcardepot has these

I made a block off plate recently and bought a regulator, and a carter 2.5-4 psi electric fuel pump. 2 reasons I didnt hook it up. 1 the mechanically was working "fine" and it didnt really bother me. 2 i couldnt find a solid place to mount the pump in the back in line or lower than the tank other than the out board side of the frame, which isnt ideal.

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make sure to to put too strong of a spring. just enuff is best are this wears the carb out even more

 

I like both electric and the manual pumps.

But I had my yellow 510 when I got in a wreck the key was still on and Gas was shooting all over the place till I swithc the key off. There are soem good pumps.This was a Mallory and was like 30yrs old but by the gas tank and wire just run under from privois owner(look hoky)

 

I had 1 510 that had some Carter tube looking type pump under the hood and was fine. sold the car. later wrecked.

 

others might know more but I like the stock pump and dont need a reg and they work with dual carbs also. No messy wiring to deal with.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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1 minute ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I like both electric and the manual pumps.

But I had my yellow 510 when I got in a wreck the key was still on and Gas was shooting all over the place till I swithc the key off. There are soem good pumps.This was a Mallory and was like 30yrs old but by the gas tank and wire just run under from privois owner(look hoky)

 

I had 1 510 that had some Carter tube looking type pump under the hood and was fine. sold the car. later wrecked.

 

other might know more but I like the stock pump and dont need a reg and they work with dual carbs also. No messy wiring to deal with.

Yes, I do not feel like wiring a pump in to turn off with the ignition. however, i do have a wire that i closed off on my harness that is made for an accessory like a fuel pump

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I have seen what too much gas in the crankcase can do. Mid '60s chev six cylinder car wouldn't hot start in the parking lot. Severely flooded. Spark and BOOM!!! Shakes the windows and hurts the ears. Front and back of valve cover bent up and away from head. Oil pan blown off, oil everywhere.

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53 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I have seen what too much gas in the crankcase can do. Mid '60s chev six cylinder car wouldn't hot start in the parking lot. Severely flooded. Spark and BOOM!!! Shakes the windows and hurts the ears. Front and back of valve cover bent up and away from head. Oil pan blown off, oil everywhere.

well thanks for scaring me now mike hahaha

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A cup of gasoline contains the same energy as 4 sticks of dynamite. Naturally it's hard to imagine gas boiled to a vapor (possibly 1,700 X volume) and that volume mixed with 14.7 volumes of air and then exploded. Not going to happen inside an engine block because not enough air but maybe a teaspoonful or two? There are 48 teaspoons in a cup and a cup of gas = 8,000,000 jules = 4 sticks then 166,666 jules or 4/48 = .16 stick of dynamite. 2 teaspoonfuls = 1/3 stick. Yeah it will want out of a confined space in a hurry.

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