Engine model

[Chief John]

I am still working on an engine swap in my 1968 520 but am running into a few issues.  The engine that came out of the truck was seized and the supposedly good engine is a bit different.  I'm trying to determine what the good engine came out of so I can purchase the correct parts.  

 

The "good" engine has 1300 stamped on one side with 35523055 embossed on the other side.  The distributor shaft diameter is 1 3/8" .

 

The seized engines also says 1300on one side and 37001337 on the other side.  The distributor shaft diameter is 1 1/16".

 

Both Engines have 132    4    stamped near the engine number.

 

The seized engine uses a spin on oil filter and the good engine has a cartridge type filter.  I'm going to mount the spin on oil filer adapter to the good engine so I can use a Fram oil filter.

 

Can someone on this forum tell me what make/model/year my good engine is?

 

Thanks

John, Alabama

[Crashtd420]

Some pictures will help. 

Also careful with that word fram....

Most here will tell you it's only good for painting the engine block... get something better like the wix brand. 

[Ken75]

I'm working on a J13 as we speak.

I have 2 engines:

 

1/ the one which came with the '68 520 pickup (working on this one)

-> "1300" cast on the block

-> "37X24092" cast on the block (the X is very hard to read, may be something different)

-> engine number "623898" (at the edge of the deck)

-> distributor shaft diameter 1-1/16"

 

2/ a spare engine which is said to originate from a south african 620 (stored for now)

-> "B34" cast on the block

-> haven't started working on this one yet

 

I'm not sure if the ditributor shaft diameter say a lot. It is fitted into a bushing / plate, which itself slides into the block and locates the gear shaft towards the camshaft.

So your blocks could be identical, just with a different locking plate to hold the distributor. To get that plate out, remove the bolt/nut and tap both ways with a hammer so it starts rotating. When it rotation goes ok, then pull whilst rotating and it should come out (mine did).

 

Please don't trash your old engine, I'd be interested seized or not

 

BR,

Ken

[datzenmike]

First, fram filters are crap. Get a NAPA Gold or WIX filter. Fram used to be something in the 60s and 70s but have gone way down hill in the quality materials used in it. At best they are almost average.

 

In North America, the J13 was only used in the '66-'68 520 and the '69 L521 so unless it's from another country it's from the early 520/521truck.

 

 

Ken the J series was used outside N America on several vehicles including the 620 but I think in J15 (1500cc) size and possibly J18 later in the 620 or the 720 trucks.

 

 

[Ken75]

The block says "B34" at the same location my other engine has "1300". According to the workshop manual, it must be a J13. The J15 and J16 should have "T01" embossed on the block. But I haven't opened it yet so no proof so far.

 

BR,

Ken

[Chief John]

I'll check if maybe the bushing came out of the good engine with the distributor and stayed in on the seized engine.  The mounting bracket is much thicker on the good engine.

 

You might have figured out I'm a real rookie on Datsuns.  I was an Air-cooled VW guy for many years.

[zed1]

Don’t panic on parts availability, some BMC B Series parts interchange.  Ratsun is a great resource for keeping your Datsun on the road.

Keith

[Chief John]

Ken75, you were correct.  There was a bushing around the distributor shaft.  One problem solved.  Thank you.

 

I only mentioned the Frame oil filter because I read somewhere online to only use a PH8A because other brands may not fit properly.  I've learned my lesson.

 

Thanks to all who responded.  This forum is a great resource.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Let's not all get hung up on the oil filter guys. Gotta walk before you can run.

 

I think most people here on Ratsun are still learning about the J motors, so don't feel bad about your lack of knowledge. Fact is, most Datsun lovers are familiar with the L and A motors, but the J and E motors are an unfolding mystery.

 

As mentioned, a lot of parts on the J motor are interchangeable with (or at least similar to) the BMC A and B series engines. Luckily, the MG and Austin Healey resources have great info, including parts diagrams and part numbers. Plus tons of availability too. You can get new aluminum cylinder heads for BMC motors, electronic ignition systems, billet aluminum rockers, spin on oil filter adapters, Weber intake manifolds, aluminum flywheels, etc.

 

I've always felt that the Japanese were superior to the British when it came to manufacturing of engines, but I also wonder, at what point do you just install a 1.8L from a 1972 MGB? Full disclosure, I'm not saying that can be done, but I wouldn't be surprised if it were a direct swap.