Mixture solenoid click, key off completely

[A guy named Rick]

Yeah. What the title said. Rebuilt a carb, got it on, and it runs but I need some adjustments as I figured. Idle high (maybe vacuum, definitely NOT the fast idle cam), fuel inlet leaks a very small amount, fuel level a tad low. Had a weber previously and never had a properly functioning Hitachi. 

 

What's causing the key to be off, out of the ignition, and rapid clicking still coming from the mixture solenoid?? 

[datzenmike]

Power is off shouldn't be any clicking. Pull the electric plug to the carburetor to be sure it's the carburetor.

 

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[A guy named Rick]

For sure is the carburetor mixture solenoid. Oddly, I shut the door or even hit the truck hard enough it'll stop. Can hit it and it will start again. Weird 

[A guy named Rick]

Just now, A guy named Rick said:

For sure is the carburetor mixture solenoid. Oddly, I shut the door or even hit the truck hard enough it'll stop. Can hit it and it will start again. Weird. I pull every fuse out, still did it. Haven't checked relays yet. Do I have a loose connection in my ignition switch? This could be the source of my parasitic draw. 

 

[datzenmike]

Tap or hit the steering column, see if you get the same result.

[A guy named Rick]

16 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Tap or hit the steering column, see if you get the same result.

Pretty sure it will since the body right behind the drivers soor and also the radiator support give the same result (for shits and giggles) 

[A guy named Rick]

Hey Mike so I did that and same thing. But when I actually hit the Ignition switch itself it doesn't happen.. So there are 2 relays next to the battery, and the one that's closest to the headlights if I barely touch it the clicking stops. The clicking was coming from the carburetor, not the relay. But the relay stopped it. So I unplugged it and I noticed that it rattles especially when you shake it. Like something metal is rattling around inside against plastic. So I think I have a busted relay.

 

The relay I have is brown, possibly was blue and had been switched. It says COIL on 2 of the prongs and the other 4 look like for ON.

Edited May 30, 2022 by A guy named Rick

[A guy named Rick]

O'Reilly autp parts carries those relays. Do I need a 20 or 30 amp?? It's a 6 pin.

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/import-direct-ignition/import-direct-ignition-20-amp-6-terminal-multi-purpose-relay/odi1/250673/v/a/8241/automotive-truck-1985-nissan-720-pickup?q=Relay&pos=1

[datzenmike]

Probably the right one. 20 amp is plenty.  2 of those 4 other wires are connected when the relay is off the other 2 are un connected. When the relay coil is powered and the relay is on, the first pair and now open and the other two are connected. It's NC normal closed and NO normally open.

[A guy named Rick]

So needless to say, I think I narrowed down the problem?