Full suspension restoration insight

[NicktheMillwright]

Good Afternoon

 

My 720 project is at the point where I'm restoring the entirety of the suspension and steering. I'm building a list of parts to order from Nissan (with some exceptions, more performance oriented)

 

Here's what I have so far. Looking to cross reference

 

- 4 Rear Shock Bushings (56119-V6000)

- 8 Rear Spring Bushings (53046-01W10)

- 2 Rear Lower Shock Bushings (56127-5000)

- 4 Rear Spring Bushings (55045-01W10)

- 4 Tie Rod Bushings (54476-01W00)

- 8 Stab Link Bushings (526112-V0100)

- 2 Front Shock Bushings (56127-5000)

- 4 Upper Ctrl Arm Bushings (54506-B9500)

- 4 Lower Ctrl Arm Bushings (54423-B9500)

- 8 Stab Frame Bushings (54613-14900)

- 2 Idler Arm Bushings (48544-01G00)

 

Am I missing anything from this list? Some items Nissan doesn't manufacture but can be found on rock auto, or if I'm desperate I have the ability to re-manufacture them.

 

Cheers

 

[paradime]

Looks pretty thorough in the bushing department. what about wheel bearings?

[NicktheMillwright]

18 minutes ago, paradime said:

Looks pretty thorough in the bushing department. what about wheel bearings?

 

Bearings wise I have found some SKF replacements, along with grease seals for the hub that are also SKF. Not the NSK OEMs but SKF is a good brand so Im not worried. The new front inner hub bearings are a slightly different design, using a more aggressive taper angle. But the inner and outer race are the same diameter along with the width which is what's important here.

[datzenmike]

56119-V6000 are for the later D21 Hardbody. The biggest improvement by far when redoing your suspension is replacing the worn out shock absorbers. Get a good brand name. Those bushings will come with the new shocks. Putting new bushings on old shocks will do nothing.

 

53046-01W10 does not exist. But 55046-01W10 does. Shackle/spring bushings

 

  55045-01W10  along with the shackle bushings unless split or severely worm this won't make much difference.

 

56127-5000 (must be 10 digits) Again, new shock absorbers will come with new bushings.

 

Tie Rod Bushings 54476-01W00 These are tension rod bushings not tie rod.

 

   8 Stab? Link Bushings (526112-V0100) Has to be 10 digit code.  Stabilizer bushings? 56112-09400

 

- 2 Front Shock Bushings (56127-5000) Has to be a 10 digit number. Again new shocks will come with new bushings.

 

- 4 Upper Ctrl Arm Bushings (54506-B9500) confirmed

- 4 Lower Ctrl Arm Bushings (54423-B9500) confirmed

- 8 Stab Frame Bushings (54613-14900) confirmed

 

- 2 Idler Arm Bushings (48544-01G00) This is for the D21 Hardbody. 85 720 2wd is 48544-41W00

 

 

 

Inspect/replace the upper and lower control arm ball joints.

 

Inspect/replace the steering ball joints.

 

 

[NicktheMillwright]

31 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

56119-V6000 are for the later D21 Hardbody. The biggest improvement by far when redoing your suspension is replacing the worn out shock absorbers. Get a good brand name. Those bushings will come with the new shocks. Putting new bushings on old shocks will do nothing.

 

53046-01W10 does not exist. But 55046-01W10 does. Shackle/spring bushings

 

  55045-01W10  along with the shackle bushings unless split or severely worm this won't make much difference.

 

56127-5000 (must be 10 digits) Again, new shock absorbers will come with new bushings.

 

Tie Rod Bushings 54476-01W00 These are tension rod bushings not tie rod.

 

   8 Stab? Link Bushings (526112-V0100) Has to be 10 digit code.  Stabilizer bushings? 56112-09400

 

- 2 Front Shock Bushings (56127-5000) Has to be a 10 digit number. Again new shocks will come with new bushings.

 

- 4 Upper Ctrl Arm Bushings (54506-B9500) confirmed

- 4 Lower Ctrl Arm Bushings (54423-B9500) confirmed

- 8 Stab Frame Bushings (54613-14900) confirmed

 

- 2 Idler Arm Bushings (48544-01G00) This is for the D21 Hardbody. 85 720 2wd is 48544-41W00

 

 

 

Inspect/replace the upper and lower control arm ball joints.

 

Inspect/replace the steering ball joints.

 

 

 

See this is why I like to cross check information with people who know better as to just ordering things willy nilly.

 

Mike do you have a exploded diagram of the 2wd 85 720's suspension on hand?

 

For context this truck had been sitting for more than a few years, and most of the rubber undercarriage components have started to disintegrate. Kaltire declined an alignment due to the nearly nonexistent ball joints in the steering.

 

In terms of reputable shock brands, who should I go with. My knowledge is limited. My intention is to give this truck a roughly 2 inch drop with a bit of stance but one thing at a time. Not adding bolt on flairs but would like to fill the wheel well.

 

[datzenmike]

I have an '84 FSM and access to part numbers/diagrams etc.

 

I wouldn't say I know better so take my numbers and confirm them as a double check. 

 

Two inch drop blocks on the back and turn the torsion bars down on the front. Two inches is do able. Definitely get new shocks if lowering. ...

 

https://oards.com/best-car-shock-absorber-brands/

[NicktheMillwright]

31 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Definitely get new shocks if lowering. ...

 

https://oards.com/best-car-shock-absorber-brands/

 

This is my lack of knowledge coming through on older setups.

 

Will I need to find a shorter shock when lowering this truck or should I simply get the lowering blocks and adjust the torsion bar? Or a combination of both?

[datzenmike]

Lowering blocks have no effect of shock length on the rear, non whatever. The front can only be adjusted by turning the torsion bars downs but 2" is alright.

 

It should be mentioned that there are drop spindles that will lower the front with no torsion bar adjustment needed and alignment and suspension are unaffected.

[bottomwatcher]

Drop spindles are the way to go to keep the ride feeling stock. Lay under the front of the truck and have someone wiggle the steering wheel back an forth. A 16th here and there adds up quick. Balljoints upper and lower, tie rod ends, idler arm and new centerlink will have you back to new specs. The quality is all over the place but anything made in Japan is the best.

[datzenmike]

I imagine you have power steering. The turn ratio is over 16 to one so any slack for wear or damage is multiplied X 16. So if you only have just 1/8" that's 0.125" of combined play in all the ball joints, idler arm, steering box and wheel bearings, the steering wheel has to turn 2" back and forth.

 

Manual steering is over 19:1

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Tie rod ends and balljoints on the list?

[NicktheMillwright]

58 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Tie rod ends and balljoints on the list?

100% They are on that list

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

How far are you taking it? Painting the frame too? Engine out? Body off?

[NicktheMillwright]

29 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

How far are you taking it? Painting the frame too? Engine out? Body off?

Full restoration. Body off frame and sealing the frame myself. Cheaper that way. But I'm just working through the mechanical items first before cosmetics while I find a place of strip the truck down.

 

I want to gvie the engine a modest boost in power. I've decided to go the turbo route.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Nice. Nothing better than an all new chassis, even if it's under a crusty old truck body.

 

If you can afford it, it will save time and effort to have the frame (and suspension components, rear axle housing, etc) blasted and powder coated. The blasters I use can blast and powder coat all of those items I just listed for about $1400.

[NicktheMillwright]

On 5/20/2022 at 10:54 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Nice. Nothing better than an all new chassis, even if it's under a crusty old truck body.

 

If you can afford it, it will save time and effort to have the frame (and suspension components, rear axle housing, etc) blasted and powder coated. The blasters I use can blast and powder coat all of those items I just listed for about $1400.

 

I fix industrial equipment for a living. My relationship with my boss is pretty good and I have free range to the shops equipment on weekends and after hours. This includes a blast cabinet, parts cleaner and ultrasonic cleaner. I also have some connections with a company who does powder coating so I can prep the hardware and then send it to them for a lot less than what's typical.

 

Still looking for a space to totally strip the truck down but one thing at a time

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

A forklift and vehicle lift make all the difference.