Torque specs for 2.4L

[Joecar]

What are the torque specs for the head bolts and do i need any sort of lock tight?

[WestPac720]

Hope this helps. Straight from my 1986 FSM.

[datzenmike]

I skip the loosening and go 20, 30 and 60 in sequence. I think it's far more important to re-torque them all once a year on the Z24 engine. With the engine dead cold loosen one bolt and right away torque to 60 ft. lbs. Then go to the next bolt. With this method you only have one bot loose at a time and can do them in any order you like.

 

For some reason the Z24 tends to blow the gasket every 100k. The constant heating and cooling cycles seems to somehow relax the grip on the gasket. Doesn't seem to bother the earlier Z22. So either the head bolts changed (doubtful) or something to do with the block. This re-torque refreshes the clamping pressure on the head gasket.

[Joecar]

I have the bolts out right now and i bought a new head for $300 so would i just torque them to 60lbs-ft? 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yes. Clean the bolts and the threaded holes first. If you have a spare metric bolt laying around, cut three grooves in it with a cutoff wheel on a grinder. This makes it act sort of like a tap and is good at getting the soot out of the threaded holes. Run it in and out with a battery powered impact or drill.

 

I use a tiny smear of anti-seize on the threads and torque to 57 lbs, with a good torque wrench.

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, Joecar said:

  so would i just torque them to 60lbs-ft? 

 

Do in this sequence to 20 ft. lbs. lbs.

 

R...A...D

7.........8

3........4

1.........2

5........6

9.......10

 

Continue torquing in the same sequence to 40 ft lbs. You can skip this if you want.

Finally torque in same sequence to 60 ft. lbs.

 

 

Or you can also do it this way below.

 

7 hours ago, WestPac720 said:

Hope this helps. Straight from my 1986 FSM.

 

 

[Joecar]

2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Yes. Clean the bolts and the threaded holes first. If you have a spare metric bolt laying around, cut three grooves in it with a cutoff wheel on a grinder. This makes it act sort of like a tap and is good at getting the soot out of the threaded holes. Run it in and out with a battery powered impact or drill.

 

I use a tiny smear of anti-seize on the threads and torque to 57 lbs, with a good torque wrench.

My bolts are a little rusty and i dont have anything to clean them with.

[datzenmike]

Get a wire brush.

 

[Joecar]

20 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Get a wire brush.

 

Ok. Also for the gasket should i replace it? To me it looks fine but i dont know if its still good

[datzenmike]

Absolutely replace a head gasket. It crushes in order to seal properly. You only get to do this once.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

No bench grinder? Cheap and valuable tool to have around any home garage.

[Joecar]

Also i just noticed that ny engine black has these metal cylinders where water passes the head what are those and do i need more cause i only have 2 on it 

On 5/9/2022 at 3:38 PM, datzenmike said:

Absolutely replace a head gasket. It crushes in order to seal properly. You only get to do this once.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You mean the two head dowels? About 1/2" round and 1/2" tall? And there's two of them? Those position the head and gasket on the block. Yes, you need them. Take them out carefully and clean and re-use them. Be sure to get them back in the same holes.

[datzenmike]

Actually no water passes. They are head bolt holes. I lost one once and used a short piece of 1/2" copper pipe slit with a hacksaw.

[Joecar]

12 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Actually no water passes. They are head bolt holes. I lost one once and used a short piece of 1/2" copper pipe slit with a hacksaw.

So do i only need 2 of them?

[datzenmike]

Yes front and rear, left (driver's) side head bolts. You can plainly see the holes in block and head are larger to accept them. Not only to align the cam and crankshaft center lines but also that the cylinder 'fire rings' on the gasket are not off center and exposed to the heat of combustion.

[Joecar]

4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Yes front and rear, left (driver's) side head bolts. You can plainly see the holes in block and head are larger to accept them. Not only to align the cam and crankshaft center lines but also that the cylinder 'fire rings' on the gasket are not off center and exposed to the heat of combustion.

Ok thanks. One step closer to the first start up in 6 years