B210 Clutch Not Working

[74 B210]

Hi all, I switched my trans out of my car from a the stock 4 speed 56 series.

To a 60 series 5 speed,  the clutch almost engages but still the trans grinds a little 

going into gear.  the master and slave are not leaking. I have to pump the clutch pedal.

to get full into gear with no grind or noise, clutch is good 25k only on it. fluid is clear and good.

is the master going bad...?? 

[KELMO]

I am not completely sure about the B210 but some "A" motors have a plate between the block an the trans does/did yours?

And, did you keep/discard it?

The T/O bearing collar on a 56 is different than the collar on a 60, which one did you use?

Do you have a way to see the actual movement of the slave cylinder?

 

These are the things I would look at. I am more of a 1200 guy but the 2 are very similar. Having to pump the pedal to get a smooth shift seems odd to me.

[Dguy210]

On 4/17/2022 at 4:34 PM, 74 B210 said:

Hi all, I switched my trans out of my car from a the stock 4 speed 56 series.

To a 60 series 5 speed,  the clutch almost engages but still the trans grinds a little 

going into gear.  the master and slave are not leaking. I have to pump the clutch pedal.

to get full into gear with no grind or noise, clutch is good 25k only on it. fluid is clear and good.

is the master going bad...?? 

 

The slave cylinders go bad very easily and without leaking. Try changing it out first, cheap part.

[datzenmike]

The throw out collar from the 4 speed should be used it's matched to the clutch pressure plate. Doesn't matter what transmission is behind it just keep those two together as a matched set.

 

Likely has air trapped. Just bleed the line. Keep the master topped up and loosen the bleeder. Usually the weight of fluid above will push down displacing the air out the bleeder. When the bubbles stop tighten the bleeder. This works for me but if not step down on the pedal several times and hold. Loosen bleeder and bubbles and air should shoot out. Close bleeder and let pedal back up. Repeat till no air bubbles and only clear fluid comes out. DO NOT LET THE MASTER RUN DRY 

[az_rat210]

After bleeding you will need to readjust the slave cylinder rod and the clutch pedal.

At the withdrawal lever 1-2 mm of free travel or play in the fork.

At the pedal 6 inches of height with 16-33 mm of free travel although you can do with less than 6 inches.

 

Those parts should always be adjusted after bleeding.

The above is from my 78 shop manual, but I have been using those same settings for my fs5w60a.

[datzenmike]

11 minutes ago, az_rat210 said:

At the pedal 6 inches of height with 16-33 mm of free travel although you can do with less than 6 inches.

 

 

 

0.6 to 1.3 inches?

 

This seems excessive. Most pedal play on a Datsun clutch is 0.0625" to 0.125" or 1/16" to 1/8"

[74 B210]

thanks for all the input from everybody, I did use the collar from the 56 trans, and was able to adjust the slave cylinder

rod lock nut, ball nut.  I got the free play out to specs 1 inch and the clutch worked great! and keep the mid plate, only thing is the spedo is off by 11 miles.

I can live with that.  just adjust speed accordingly. 

[datzenmike]

11 MPH at what speed? because at half that speed the difference is half or 5.5 MPH. The 56 should have a 17 tooth pinion and the 60 should be 16 teeth. Just 6.5% different so at 50 MPH it should only be out 3.25 MPH.

 

 

It's doubtful if the old 56 speedometer sleeve will swap into the 60 case. The hole should be the same size. Perhaps the plastic gear might???

 

I looked for a 60 sleeve that was 17 tooth and couldn't find one.