waddlin Posted February 23, 2022 Report Share Posted February 23, 2022 I've started to hear a knock in my engine. At first it was at a certain RPM but now at idle. I'm thinking I am going to get a remanufactured engine instead of rebuilding mine. It is a time constraint thing. I don't have time to send it to the machine shop and rebuild it. It is a 1985/86 truck but I'm not sure what year the engine is. I've looked on the exhaust side of the block but can't find any numbers. Is there any other way to identify what year it is? does it matter? Has anyone bought a reman engine? Thanks. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 23, 2022 Report Share Posted February 23, 2022 At top is the 2 and 3 spark plugs. Right between the bottom middle two exhaust manifold bolts. Get a flash light and a wire brush. The numbers are likely buried under oil but they are there. Yours should be a Z24 if it's a gas engine. They were in the '83-'86.5 720. The '86.5-'88 D21 Hardbody also used them in EFI configuration but as your peripherals will be put on it, the block (and contents) and the heads were the same. I have a Z24 that was originally from a Hardbody but was transplanted into the 720 and the 720 manifolds and what-nots put onto it. A 'rod knock' is louder under load and quieter when you let off. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 23, 2022 Report Share Posted February 23, 2022 Reman engines may take as long as having yours rebuilt. I have a friend looking for a Toyota V6 right now and all the rebuilders are backed up like six months. Maybe different for the Nissan. 1 Quote Link to comment
waddlin Posted February 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2022 Thanks for the great information as always. I have a header on mine so that little area is slightly blocked. I'll check it out closer. It is a gas Z24, so I guess any year will work. Jegs has them for $1800 and change but can't get on till the end of April. Quote Link to comment
waddlin Posted February 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2022 If I plan to do the rebuilt route, does anyone know of the best quality rebuild kit? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 23, 2022 Report Share Posted February 23, 2022 (edited) In my experience with Nissan/Datsun engines, there is no one kit that covers all the bases. Factory parts are getting hard to find though. It might be worth a trip down to your local engine shop to see what kit they would recommend and have them supply it for you. You will want them to do your basic machine work anyway, like mag and polish the crank, bore and hone the block (if you're getting new pistons) and rebuild the cylinder head. May as well throw them a bone and get the parts they're comfortable using. Try to avoid using all aluminum rod and main bearings. If you can find a tri-metal bearing, they are worth the added cost. Piston rings are also an area of concern. Cheap cast rings will break in quickly, but don't last a long time. On the flip side, chromoly rings take forever to seat in. I like to use a sprayed chrome ring on these types of rebuilds. They break in quick and last a lot longer than regular cast rings. Hastings makes a nice set and they are relatively inexpensive. EDIT - you may find that the kit your engine supplier likes does not have tri-metal bearings or good rings, in which case, just buy them and use them instead of the parts supplied in the kit. Edited February 23, 2022 by Stoffregen Motorsports 1 Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted February 23, 2022 Report Share Posted February 23, 2022 (edited) Yes,I got a Jasper engine installed in mine back in 2009,I now have 95,280 miles on it, I have 377,641 on the speedometer now.Never had no trouble.It comes with a Nation wide 3 year warranty or 100,000 miles warranty.Only a Jasper installer can install it.If anything goes wrong with it under warranty,they will replace it.It is a remanufactured engine.I believe my piston and rings went bad on mine to cause me to get a Jasper Engine.While he had the engine out he said I needed a clutch and showed it to me and didn't charge for labor,just a 100 something for the parts. See the numbers match on my warranty and the sticker on the engine. Cadena also put my new custom made heating and air system in. He also did a complete brake system install with new front bearings,boots and new emergency brake cables,you name it,it is new,master cylinder,all lines,rotors, rear drums.springs,shoes,pads.ball joints.brake and clutch pedal switch.calibers.rear wheel cylinders.It took about a week to get done.Not a drop of oil leak anywhere.https://www.jasperengines.com/ Edited February 23, 2022 by Thomas Perkins 1 Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted February 23, 2022 Report Share Posted February 23, 2022 Of course I don’t know your level of mechanical experience, but are you sure that it’s not something simple making the noise you’re hearing? Unless it’s been run low on oil or the oil not being changed regularly, it’s hard for me to imagine that a rod is knocking. The bottom end on these engines is pretty tough. I went 400,000 miles on mine before I tore into the bottom end on it and the only reason I did then was because I blew a head gasket. Wasn’t aware of the need to re-torque each year before I found this site. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 23, 2022 Report Share Posted February 23, 2022 Didn't these have problems with the rocker shafts that would make a loud rod-knock like noise? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 24, 2022 Report Share Posted February 24, 2022 Not that I know of. The KA-E had a sort of hydraulic tip on the rocker. Not changing the oil enough and they would clack a bit. 1 Quote Link to comment
waddlin Posted February 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2022 Thomas, I would like to do the reman engine but I can pull it out and replace it myself. I can't see paying someone to do that. To bad I can't just buy one from them. 1 Quote Link to comment
waddlin Posted February 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2022 NC85ST, I regularly change my oil and use WIX filters. It started after I had some fueling issues and the truck would run out of fuel at higher speeds. When that would happen the engine would lose power and sometimes buck from not getting fuel. 1 Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted February 24, 2022 Report Share Posted February 24, 2022 8 hours ago, waddlin said: NC85ST, I regularly change my oil and use WIX filters. It started after I had some fueling issues and the truck would run out of fuel at higher speeds. When that would happen the engine would lose power and sometimes buck from not getting fuel. I use Wix filters too.That's what the installer uses too.I use 10W30 Castrol since I got this engine.I can't put a engine in and mine is a 4x4,the labor was not cheap.But it was done right.He also put a Jasper transmission in my wife's car not long ago.My engine was 1700.00 back then,plus all the stuff like oil,filter,new spark plugs,new coolant,new both temperature sender and sensor.New intake and exhaust gaskets and studs.New water pump.New thermostat.New hoses,New belts.New oil pan gasket.New oil pump.New distributor cap and rotor.New Ngk plug wires.New clutch.Maybe a few other things but with these parts and labor was 1200.00 for a total of 2900.00. Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 How many miles are on your truck? I’m sure others will let me know if I’m wrong, but I don’t see how a fuel issue could cause an engine bearing failure. Quote Link to comment
waddlin Posted February 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 I don't think it was the fuel issue but maybe the bucking of the engine, lack of fuel maybe caused a lean issue and hurt a piston? Not really sure till I tear into it. Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 What do your spark plugs look like... Quote Link to comment
waddlin Posted March 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2022 Hey there gentleman.....I tore down the engine and it looks like the noise was coming from the number 2 rod bearing. It was pretty beat up. It did leave some marks on the crank but the mains look good. I was going to get a remanufactured crank from Northern auto. They have a crank kit for $200 with the bearings. They have some good reviews from other forums. Anyone use another company for a crank kit? 1 Quote Link to comment
ShutterMeShort Posted March 5, 2022 Report Share Posted March 5, 2022 Rock Auto has most engine parts you will need and there are discount codes shared here on the forum. I'm not seeing the crankshaft though. Lots of bearings and everything else you would need Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 5, 2022 Report Share Posted March 5, 2022 Ok, the problem with trashed bearings is that the tiny particles from the destroyed bearing get pumped throughout the oiling system and can cause major damage if the block is not cleaned. This means removing the engine, taking the front cover off and the flywheel. Removing the galley plugs and crank and flushing and brushing with solvent and a long galley brush. If there was any metal in the bottom of the oil pan, you must flush the oiling system or you are guaranteed to have problems later. If there wasn't any metal, you might have gotten lucky and could get away with replacing the cranks and throwing in some new bearings. But I doubt that is the case. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 5, 2022 Report Share Posted March 5, 2022 Oil filter should catch it all but the oil pump will take a beating. Found a KA pump that was all gritty, looked like it had been pumping sand through it. Rolled the engine over and there was a rod through the block. Phooey. Quote Link to comment
waddlin Posted March 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2022 On 3/5/2022 at 10:17 AM, ShutterMeShort said: Rock Auto has most engine parts you will need and there are discount codes shared here on the forum. I'm not seeing the crankshaft though. Lots of bearings and everything else you would need Yeah i've ordered a ton of parts though them already. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
waddlin Posted March 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2022 On 3/5/2022 at 12:32 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Ok, the problem with trashed bearings is that the tiny particles from the destroyed bearing get pumped throughout the oiling system and can cause major damage if the block is not cleaned. This means removing the engine, taking the front cover off and the flywheel. Removing the galley plugs and crank and flushing and brushing with solvent and a long galley brush. If there was any metal in the bottom of the oil pan, you must flush the oiling system or you are guaranteed to have problems later. If there wasn't any metal, you might have gotten lucky and could get away with replacing the cranks and throwing in some new bearings. But I doubt that is the case. I completely tore the engine down. It will get a good cleaning on everything. 1 Quote Link to comment
waddlin Posted March 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2022 I've got new oil pump, timing set, full victor rez gasket kit, new rings, going to lap the valves and probably order a comp cam as well. I had a local machine shop machine down the rod journals on the crank 10 thousandths. The mains were perfect. And of course all new bearings. She should run good after this. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 8, 2022 Report Share Posted March 8, 2022 Sounds like you know what you're doing. If you're installing new main bearings, don't forget to set the thrust clearance. Too little thrust clearance and the crank will seize up. Too much and you loose oil pressure. I set the thrust to .006". 1 Quote Link to comment
waddlin Posted March 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2022 Quick question on cams. How does the Nissan performance cam compare to the Comp cam? Nissan cam Lift is .406" and Duration is 272° Lobe centers (LSA) are 108° Comp Cam 260 Lift is .420 and duration is 260 lobe center is 110 Quote Link to comment
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