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2360 L series


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The 2360 L series engine is starting to be the next big 4 cylinder old-school engine for the 510. A few people have had this setup in their rides. I took a ride in a butterscotch 2 door just this past June 2021 Powerland car show. Forgot the guys name, but the car had a decent amount of power. Anyone have some thoughts, good or bad, about the 2360? 

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I never got to build one of these as Rebello started building them about ten years after I left, but I believe it's the same combo as the long rod 2300, but with more bore. I heard talk about a 2500 too, which must be stroked even more. Because unless you;re sleeving the blocks, you simply can't go more than 89.5 or 90 mm. 89mm is pushing it with most blocks, but if you were able to sonic test the block and measure for cylinder wall thickness, you might find a few that are thick enough for the giant bore.

 

Again, never built one myself, but just speculating.

 

I do know that Dave is getting huge hp out of those motors. 240hp on pump gas is not unheard of.

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Doesn't say much about the build.

 

Well:

Z22 bored +2mm to 89mm with cut down Z24 crankshaft and Z24 or KA24E pistons on L20B rods would make a 2388cc engine. (probably best if .3mm is ground off the piston tops) Basically stuffing a Z24 into a Z22 block that has a 2cm shorter deck height. Rod stroke ratio goes from 1.718 down to 1.519 for what ever advantage that is worth. 

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I took my '89 Z24i engine that was in an '84 720 (converted to carburetor) that was crashed and had it in my 620 for a year. It was marvelously smooth running. I saved it when the truck went. Been sitting around so I fixed up a U67 head and put it on. It's what I call an L24B. Just as there was an L20 six cylinder, when the 2 liter 4 cylinder was made they called it an L20 B. Well there is already an L24 in the Z car and 810/Maxima so I call this the L24B. I think Nissan would agree. I wrapped it up for a sunny day. Still needs a few peripherals that are on the L20B now in my car but an L20B with a 20% displacement increase should go pretty good. Definitely a stroker engine.

 

Always wanted to see what a Z24 would run like if you got rid of the Z head and put something that breathes on it and fed it with my R1 carburetors..  

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The combo is the regular 2.3 setup but a stroked 2.2 crank with 6 1/4 inch rods. Combo comes out to be a 2360. Same 0.080 overbore. They keep the 2.2 block instead of the z24 block so it fits in the engine bay without hood mods or crossmember mods. It's a good setup. It costs about $10,000!!! though. Yeah I know, you could have less money and more power from something else, understood. The concept is the potential power from an old dinosaur engine is mind blowing!

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In my earlier post, I meant to say stroked instead of larger bore.

 

Another reason I like the 2200 more is the fully conuterweighted crank, which lends to the smooth revving. You can weld conterweights on a non-counterweighted crank, but that's race motor stuff. I doubt Rebello is doing that on the street motors.

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2 hours ago, WAGON JON said:

The combo is the regular 2.3 setup but a stroked 2.2 crank with 6 1/4 inch rods. Combo comes out to be a 2360. Same 0.080 overbore. They keep the 2.2 block instead of the z24 block so it fits in the engine bay without hood mods or crossmember mods. It's a good setup. It costs about $10,000!!! though. Yeah I know, you could have less money and more power from something else, understood. The concept is the potential power from an old dinosaur engine is mind blowing!

 

The only difference between Z24 block and the L20B/Z22 is the very top of the Z24 block extends 2cm higher. That's 3/4". The Z24 will accept any L series oil pan if run in the L series position with L series head. I have a LZ24 and a mid '70s 710 oil pan fits just fine. It's not installed but expect no problems. If in a vehicle with an L16 or L18 the height difference is 4cm or 1.5". So if in a 510, a 510 oil pan will work with the 510 cross member other than if lowered because of this 1.5" height difference.

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11 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

In my earlier post, I meant to say stroked instead of larger bore.

 

Another reason I like the 2200 more is the fully conuterweighted crank, which lends to the smooth revving. You can weld conterweights on a non-counterweighted crank, but that's race motor stuff. I doubt Rebello is doing that on the street motors.

Counter weights is the reason to use the 2.2 crank stroked. Using a 6 1/4 inch rod and making great results. 

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On 2/4/2022 at 7:16 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Right, except the Z22 crank is not fully counterweighted. But the L20B crank is.

Wonder how much stroking you could do out of the L20B crank to build a 2360 out of it reliably?

 

 

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As the stroke length increases the red line goes down. If you could somehow get an L20B stroke from 86mm to 92mm you have just built a fully counter weighted Z22 crank. Your red line has dropped from 7,000 down to 6,500. So unless 'racin' continuously above 5,800 for hours on end smoothness doesn't matter much. Just use a Z22 crank.

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A new custom billet crank from someone like Scat runs about $2k. Possibly less. If you really must have massive stroke with counterweights, that's your best bet.

 

You can easily offset grind any Datsun L crank .030", but that doesn't do much.

 

The counterweights help with harmonics and overall durability and stability of the bottom end. It's not a deal breaker for me. I just like the 2200 with the L20B crank better.

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