A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 I'm having trouble uploading images. I am installing ball joints on my 720. I have the old ones out, but it looks like they had a washer on them where the dust boot would have gone, which was missing. There was a metal washer on the bottom of the lower control arm. I basically had to pry it off. The new Moog has a white ring that looks like that it would sit under the dust boot. Is this correct? K9045 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Or wait, I just thought about it.. Does it go on top of the boot between it and the lower control arm. It is molded on one side to fit snug in the opening of the boot. Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Or... Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Metal ring I am talking about pictured on the ballpoint Holding it against the knuckle.. Sorry, I meant the knuckle. Not the lower control arm Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Hoping to get the drivers side done tonight so any help is appreciated Quote Link to comment
Ooph! Posted January 23, 2022 Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 (edited) Looks like I had it wrong according to the install directions it goes between the boot and control arm Edited January 23, 2022 by Ooph! Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Well 💩... 1 Quote Link to comment
Ooph! Posted January 23, 2022 Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 that's correct Moog install says its a spacer 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Ok, so I'm good then right? I think I torqued the 4 bolts to about 45lbs. Didn't want to over tighten. What's spec for those 4, plus the steering linkage to backside of hub, and brake caliper to hub? 1 Quote Link to comment
Ooph! Posted January 23, 2022 Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Here's what I found you'll have to get the others from the FSM AXCF4057.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Fastboatman on Nicoclub had a write up, castle nut is 87-123 for bottom and 58-72 on top. Wonder how close to the upper end i need to be. I have bottom at 100 right now, 62 top 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Ended bottom at 100 ft-lbs, upper at 70 ft-lbs, tightened brake caliper bolts like 36, steering mount to back of hub assembly about the same, ball joint mount bolts backed off to 36. Didn't want to over-tighten anything. Should I increase? I also didn't use any threadlock on anything. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2022 Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Lowering to 35 from 45 is probably ok. The risk of over tightening is the bolts stretch. If they stretch too far (not saying these are) they do not return to original shape and are ruined. 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Yeah I thought about that too. I'll take a picture of the bolts later. As far as the torque speck for the other bolts, not too loose or too tight? 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Black ones have a 9.8, the other is 10.9 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 I'm gonna head out there now and finish the passenger side. Any input of whether these are torque to yield bolts would be great. I don't think that they are.. Also any input on the torque specs would be great. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2022 Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 It's fine. They won't be TTY bolts. I only mentioned it it if was severely over tightened. If you know the bolt size and the torque you reached you can re assure yourself by referring to this guide.... metric steel bolts: Property Class all in ft. lbs. Grade 8.8 Grade 9.8 Grade 10.9 Grade 12.9 M5 7.0 7.8 10.0 11.7 M6 11.8 13.3 17.0 19.9 M8 28.8 32.3 41.3 48.3 M10 57.3 64.1 81.8 95.7 M12 99.8 112 143 167 M16 248 277 354 413 M20 500 690 809 M24 865 1195 1395 M30 1719 2377 2774 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Nice. Ok. Working on passenger side now. Cotter pins are a PITA. Aside from the castle nuts and the ball joint nuts, what would you tighten the other bolts to? It could be from the years of dirt and elements, but when I broke free the bolts holding the steering lis the steering linkage to the wheel assembly, they must have been tightened to a 100ft-lb. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2022 Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 If replacing them anyway just get a socket over the cotter pins and twist the nut off severing them. The 4 mounting nuts for the upper ball joint are 12-15 ft lbs. On the lower ball joint the two shorter bolts are 12-15 and the two longer through the tension rod are 28-38 ft. lbs. 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Oh 💩 they're all 36 right now >.< leave it or adjust? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2022 Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Again, probably alright. Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 (edited) When I reassembled I didn't use any threadlocker. Wasn't sure if it should be applied to anything. The 4 bolts though had resistance tightening them so I put a dab of grease. Edited January 25, 2022 by A guy named Rick 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 If properly tightened you don't need any locker. They may even be 'nylocs'? Did you look at them? They have a plastic insert that resists loosening. They do feel stiff when installing. 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted January 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 Nah no nylocs. Drove it around yesterday and it felt great. I thought I had squeaky bushings, haha it was the ball joints all along. The bottom ones were very loose. Top ones I had to use ball joint separator tool that you tighten with a socket until a loud bang and it shoots out. Bottom ones I beat the shit with a hammer and they released themselves. Gas mileage improved too 1 Quote Link to comment
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