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Help with ball joints

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I'm having trouble uploading images. I am installing ball joints on my 720. I have the old ones out, but it looks like they had a washer on them where the dust boot would have gone, which was missing. There was a metal washer on the bottom of the lower control arm. I basically had to pry it off. The new Moog has a white ring that looks like that it would sit under the dust boot. Is this correct? K9045 

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Ended bottom at 100 ft-lbs, upper at 70 ft-lbs, tightened brake caliper bolts like 36, steering mount to back of hub assembly about the same, ball joint mount bolts backed off to 36. Didn't want to over-tighten anything. Should I increase? I also didn't use any threadlock on anything.

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Lowering to 35 from 45 is probably ok. The risk of over tightening is the bolts stretch. If they stretch too far (not saying these are) they do not return to original shape and are ruined.

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It's fine. They won't be TTY bolts. I only mentioned it it if was severely over tightened. If you know the bolt size and the torque you reached you can re assure yourself by referring to this guide....





metric steel bolts:

Property Class all in ft. lbs.
Grade 8.8 Grade 9.8 Grade 10.9 Grade 12.9
M5 7.0 7.8 10.0 11.7
M6 11.8 13.3 17.0 19.9
M8 28.8 32.3 41.3 48.3
M10 57.3 64.1 81.8 95.7
M12 99.8 112 143 167
M16 248 277 354 413
M20 500   690 809
M24 865   1195 1395
M30 1719   2377 2774
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Nice. Ok. Working on passenger side now. Cotter pins are a PITA.


  Aside from the castle nuts and the ball joint nuts, what would you tighten the other bolts to? It could be from the years of dirt and elements, but when I broke free the bolts holding the steering lis the steering linkage to the wheel assembly, they must have been tightened to a 100ft-lb.

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If replacing them anyway just get a socket over the cotter pins and twist the nut off severing them.


The 4 mounting nuts for the upper ball joint are 12-15 ft lbs.


On the lower ball joint the two shorter bolts are 12-15 and the two longer through the tension rod are 28-38 ft. lbs.

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If properly tightened you don't need any locker. They may even be 'nylocs'? Did you look at them? They have a plastic insert that resists loosening. They do feel stiff when installing.


Business & Industrial M16-16mm NYLOC NUTS TYPE T STAINLESS STEEL A2 304 DIN  985 Fasteners & Hardware

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Nah no nylocs. 


Drove it around yesterday and it felt great. I thought I had squeaky bushings, haha it was the ball joints all along. The bottom ones were very loose. Top ones I had to use ball joint separator tool that you tighten with a socket until a loud bang and it shoots out. Bottom ones I beat the shit with a hammer and they released themselves.


Gas mileage improved too


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