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do i need the stock 8 spark plug distributor in order to get both coils to fire on z22 ?


720kingkab

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i recently bought a new distributor and it fits and looks the same but i think it is for a single coil 

 

during my move i lost the old distributor and dont know the exact model of it now .

 

i am having trouble getting the truck to start when it is cold out 

 

i am blaming todays gasoline for this .

 

my carb is brand new remanufacture exact replacement of stock 

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Fill out your profile with vehicles and years as well as your rough location. For all I know you could be in Greece.

 

If the distributor has 8 plug wires it's the correct one for dual coil and should have 3 wires to connect it up up.  

 

Look on the side of the distributor there will be a 10 digit part number if from Nissan. It begins 22100-????? I need the last 5 digits to identify it.

 

 

Hard cold starting...

 

When cold, take the top off the air filter. There is a choke flap on the primary side. It should be partly open. Have some one step on the gas once. What you should see is the flap quickly snap closed and look like this...

 

L043Tu4.jpg

 

It should not be part or fully open like this...

 

Qml955T.jpg

 

 

 

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720 kingcab.... This is simple, pull one intake and one exhaust plug wire, any one. Stick an old plug in the end and lay on a grounded surface or hold it against either manifold. Have some one start the truck. DO YOU HAVE SPARK?????

 

 

 

Yes....... there is no problem with the ignition.

No........ there is no spark on the exhaust side. Replace the first fuse on the far left side of the fuse box (10 amp)

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hi, i only have spark from 1 coil  .

the carb is brand new

and the choke relay is also new. (relays on passenger side firewall up under dash )

 

i will try the choke flap test as you said

to verify it is nearly closed 

 

basically 1 coil is not giving spark 

 

what i am wondering about stock vs aftermarket distributor is ,

is there a thing inside distrib . that has dual contacts

which when spinning touches 8 plug wires on stock distributor,

 

and the after market spinning thing inside distributor  only has a spinning thing that touches only four plug wires contacts .

 

1 thing i was considering doing

was making jumper wires over from the coil that does work.

to go over to coil that doesn't work

thinking this would make both work 

 

after disconnecting stock wires to dead coil

to see if it's wiring going to dead coil is not functioning correctly 

 

 

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The one coil (exhaust) is actually on a fuse and sometimes it blows. Did you check that fuse I mentioned? First one on the far left hand side or to the rear. This is a common enough occurrence that should be eliminated before wasting time replacing anything.

 

 

Always trouble shoot what is wrong first and confirm and eliminate things. If it's the fuse a new distributor won't help.

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I would swap with the far right side of the fuse box 10 amp headlight fuse. Try the headlights if the right side does not light then the fuse is bad. Visually testing is unreliable.

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Left side marked Ignition coil. Swap with the 10 amp on the far right marked headlamp RH. If fuse is good...

 

Ok get a $3 test lamp and we can confirm that both coils are getting power.

 

Performance Tool W2975C - Performance Tool Deluxe 12 V Circuit Testers

 

Clip to ground turn ignition on. Touch the + (positive) marked terminal on the coil. Test lamp should light...

 

No...... lamp does not light on one of the coils. Problem is towards the fuse box or ignition switch depending on which coil isn't powered.

Yes..... lamp lights on both coils. Good, both coils have power.

 

I'll wait for results from this before going on.

 

 

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OK both have power. That's a good start.

 

The engine will run if only one of the two coils are firing so pulling the fuse shows that the fuse powers the good coil.

 

Pull the coil wires off, use a spark plug and ground it against the bare exhaust manifold and check for spark on both coils. Identify which coil is not working.

 

Once identified which coil is not working this indicates it...

 

1/ may be bad

2/ the module in the distributor controlling it is bad or...

3/ the coil or module is not wired properly.

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i installed new coil tonight and it is still dead 

 i switched the coil to distrib wires to see if 1 was bad and still no worky

 

the coil that doesnt work

has same 13.4 to 13.55 voltage at each wire

as the coil that works 

 

seems like something inside distrib is not telling plugs to spark 

 

 

 

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Throwing parts at it is expensive. Not only that the new one is of poorer quality and there is always the chance the 'new' coil has a problem compounding the other problem.

 

 

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On 1/5/2022 at 12:51 AM, 720kingkab said:

 

basically 1 coil is not giving spark 

 

what i am wondering about stock vs aftermarket distributor is ,

is there a thing inside distrib . that has dual contacts

which when spinning touches 8 plug wires on stock distributor,

 

and the after market spinning thing inside distributor  only has a spinning thing that touches only four plug wires contacts .

 

 

 

I'm not really familiar with the 8 plug distributor but what you said here might be worth investigating...

 

A picture of the distributor, cap and rotor combo might help ....

 

You could also try swapping the spark plug wire on the coils and see if the opposite one fires...

 

It sounds to me like you have power but nothing triggering the second coil....

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Both coils fire together except under full throttle an heavy load. If your distributor has a separate white or gray wire with it's own plastic plug as in this picture....

 

fBkHHry.jpg

 

Then unplug it and see if that helps. This wire tells the distributor to shot off the exhaust coil under certain conditions.

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Nissan started the exhaust shut off to 'reduce engine noise under heavy load' I think this may simply be the two flame fronts colliding in the combustion chamber. The Z20 and Z22 didn't have this so it can't be that bad. There is a vacuum switch that senses low intake vacuum (heavy load) and signals the ignition module to switch off.

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