Goemon Posted December 4, 2021 Report Share Posted December 4, 2021 Are there any write ups on replacing the bearings & axles ? I used the search bar but didn't find anything. I have a few questions about installation & play. I have a manual, but it can't talk. Thanks J Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted December 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2021 Even though it seems the bearings are seated there is a shit ton of play when I tightened. It seems they do not want to go any further towards the race. Is this taken up with the shims? I noticed inside the chunk and on the axle ends are polished like a mirror. Is that where the endplay I will be checking for be? I do not want to put it back together wrong I made this video to show what I am dealing with, I have never replaced rear bearings on any vehicle before now. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 4, 2021 Report Share Posted December 4, 2021 The 4 bolt brass shims are for setting end play into the thrust block of the 3rd member. Pick one side and shim till it is within 0.012" to 0.035". Go to other side and shim till you get 0.0008" to 0.0059" 1 Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted December 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 I am in the process of using the dial indicator to set end play. Is .005 going to be too loose on the first side? Thanks for the numbers My shims are steel, I had to put them in the secret sauce to clean off the rust. I have extras from the other rear end. 1 Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted December 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 is .005 too much for the first side? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 6, 2021 Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 On 12/4/2021 at 11:39 AM, datzenmike said: Pick one side and shim till it is within 0.012" to 0.035". Go to other side and shim till you get 0.0008" to 0.0059" 0.005" may be a little small. I don't know how critical this is really. It's the other side that closes up the gap between the thrust block and the two axles ends. 1 Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted December 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 (edited) With the shims I have I finally got the first side to .011, one ten thousandths tight ..? That took several removals & re-configuring shims. They would be easier to measure if I had a dial caliper, instead of an antique. When she is back on the road, I won't be making any long trips, so the ass end will get broken back in slowly. My brain hasn't worked quite right since I had a hell of heart attack that comatized me for 5 days, almost 10 yrs ago, double bypass, etc., so don't be surprised if I ask stupid questions. Edited December 7, 2021 by Goemon Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 7, 2021 Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 You'll fit right in here. 1 Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 (edited) The first side is set to .011, one hundred thousandths tight ..? That should be OK, correct? Thanks Edited December 7, 2021 by Goemon Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 7, 2021 Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Close enough, yes. Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted December 9, 2021 Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 On 12/6/2021 at 10:22 AM, Goemon said: I am in the process of using the dial indicator to set end play. Is .005 going to be too loose on the first side? Thanks for the numbers My shims are steel, I had to put them in the secret sauce to clean off the rust. I have extras from the other rear end. whats the recipe for that secret sauce ? 🙂 Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted December 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2021 I can't tell you, that is why it's a secret. I have been using it to clean the rust off of gas pump computers for 35 yrs. Company Secret. That and sandblasting and sometimes sauce then sandblasting on tough stuff. I used it on my driveshaft along with wire brush & sandblaster for the ends 1 Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted December 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2021 I got this far and the rain set in. What dope should I run in this monster? I want the good shit man. Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 31, 2021 Report Share Posted December 31, 2021 At least GL-5 90w. More than enough protection. I guess you could try a GL-5 rated synthetic but in my experience it might start leaking (just wetness) at the old pinion seal. If you have a new seal, probably ok. Theoretically better mileage from reduced friction but I bet it can't be proven on an H-190. The differential oil should be changed every 30k and I assume synthetic would have a much longer change interval, so there's that. 2 Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted January 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 90 weight would be correct for GA weather. I replaced ALL the seals, outer grease, axle seals, Diff gasket and pinion seal. I do not do a lot of driving, so I would prefer a good quality brand. Any BRAND NAME suggestions for a Datsun? Thanks The pipe on the frame is there for keeping the tarp off the frame so water does not collect in between. Pallets & concrete blocks to keep your bed off the ground. 1 Quote Link to comment
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