Weber 32/36 rebuild help

[kudu]

I'm currently rebuilding my weber 32/36 to try and diag a scrapping sound when the butterflies open. While going back together I wasn't able to connect the rod/piece of metal from what I assume is the secondaries(new to the these carbs so not 100% sure what everything is) to what I think is the electric choke section. I can get those two connected but when bolting it up to the main body the choke isn't able to line up with the bolt holes. If the secondaries are installed after to try and set the choke piece in place the rod binds up and the top piece can't bolt up to the body. 

 

Picture 1 is the rod I'm referencing, and picture two is the part where it bolts to. Picture three is on the side of the top piece that the rod is binding on when trying to install it to the main body. If there are questions feel free to ask.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The electric choke is spring loaded, so you need to remove the plastic cover to install the linkage. It makes it easier. Also, be sure to mark the clocking of the plastic cover before you remove it and align the marks when you reassemble it.

 

The carb looks brand new. Hard to believe something was wrong with it already.

[datzenmike]

Is it a genuine Weber or knock off?

[kudu]

7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

The electric choke is spring loaded, so you need to remove the plastic cover to install the linkage. It makes it easier. Also, be sure to mark the clocking of the plastic cover before you remove it and align the marks when you reassemble it.

 

The carb looks brand new. Hard to believe something was wrong with it already.

Yeah it is basically brand new I was surprised it was making noise as well. So i can get the top part to sit fully down on the base and the electric choke bolt holes to line up but the swivel piece that the rod connects to is hitting the top part of the carb seen in the photo below. I assume I have something connected wrong but can’t tell where.

 

[kudu]

5 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Is it a genuine Weber or knock off?

it’s genuine

[kudu]

just realized what i did wrong when looking at that photo lol I had the elbow on that flat metal piece on the wrong side of the swivel piece. Sorry if I sound like a first grader with this terminology

[kudu]

Is this how much the top butterflies should be open at WOT? seems not enough to me but i’ve never messed with one of these before now so i’m not sure. The bottom butterflies fully open in succession to each other like one goes half way and then the other starts to move and then there both fully open

 

Edited November 5, 2021 by kudu

[datzenmike]

The top square flaps are the choke and it is closed when cold and slowly opens fully as the engine warms up. The choke has an electric heating coil inside that warms it and opens the flaps at a set rate depending on the outside temperature.

 

The bottom round throttle plate that opens first is the primary barrel. At about 60% open, a linkage begins to pull on the other, secondary throttle plate, and they reach full open together. This is known as a progressive carburetor.

[kudu]

10 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The top square flaps are the choke and it is closed when cold and slowly opens fully as the engine warms up. The choke has an electric heating coil inside that warms it and opens the flaps at a set rate depending on the outside temperature.

 

The bottom round throttle plate that opens first is the primary barrel. At about 60% open, a linkage begins to pull on the other, secondary throttle plate, and they reach full open together. This is known as a progressive carburetor.

oh okay that makes completely sense. I took that carb apart for basically nothing lol I fixed the noise so I guess that’s a plus. I’m back to my original problem though of having no fuel coming to the carb. This is the original reason I pulled that carb since I thought that was the problem but obviously it wasn’t. Basically I drove it all weekend and it drove perfect but I go to start it on that next tuesday and nothing. It has spark and with some brake clean it will fire but die immediately. I pulled some of the lines off of the filter and fuel pump and carb just to see if they were wet with fuel and they weren’t so I presume it’s a supply problem. Basically new to these so is there a decent place to start with this? Yes it has fuel first thing I did.

 

I assume I should start with lines. I’ll try hooking it up to an external gas tank and see if it’ll suck up the fuel and I guess just work my way back

Edited November 5, 2021 by kudu

[datzenmike]

Pull the line off the carburetor side of the fuel pump and direct it into a suitably large container. Pull the coil wire off the distributor so it can't start and turn the engine with the starter. Gas should shoot out in very strong gushes.

 

Yes... there is gas. Problem is towards the carburetor. Perhaps the float is stuck in the up position and not letting gas in? Line is blocked?

No.... there is no gas. Get a fuel line and connect to inlet of the fuel pump and into a container of gas. Turn engine with starter. Does gas now come out of pump???

 

No.... there is no gas. Fuel pump at fault.

Yes... there is gas now. Fuel pump is working. Problem is towards the tank. Fuel filter blocked? Replace filter, they are only $5. Fuel line is plugged? Gas tank empty???

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

13 hours ago, kudu said:

Yeah it is basically brand new I was surprised it was making noise as well. So i can get the top part to sit fully down on the base and the electric choke bolt holes to line up but the swivel piece that the rod connects to is hitting the top part of the carb seen in the photo below. I assume I have something connected wrong but can’t tell where.

 

You're right, they do make some wheezy scraping noises, but it's mostly normal. I'm not there to hear it or see the carb linkage, but there is a mechanical sound when actuating the throttle.