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1970 R 1600 Starter kick off after a few seconds?


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when i try to start it. turns cranks ok but the starter will not crank after just a few seconds. i can try again and it does crank normally but again for just a few seconds no mater if i have the key in the run position or not? Every once and a while it will crank until i let the key go.

 

Thank you for your time.

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Could be the solenoid and could be the start signal from the ignition.

 

Probably a low voltage start signal from the ignition. Get a meter and pull the Black/Yellow stripe start wire off the starter and see what it is. When the starter engages it's like a dead short on the battery and the already low voltage signal may lower to the point that the solenoid can't hold on and releases. My 710 was about 7 volts from the voltage drop from long length and old wiring. Starting was hit and miss so I made a 'hot start' relay and been good for 10 years now.

 

Borrow a push button remote start switch and connect directly to the battery and the solenoid. If it holds and starts every time then it's the weak start signal. If still hard to keep the starter engaged then probably the solenoid.

 

 

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Could be the solenoid and could be the start signal from the ignition.

 

Probably a low voltage start signal from the ignition. Get a meter and pull the Black/Yellow stripe start wire off the starter and see what it is. When the starter engages it's like a dead short on the battery and the already low voltage signal may lower to the point that the solenoid can't hold on and releases. My 710 was about 7 volts from the voltage drop from long length and old wiring. Starting was hit and miss so I made a 'hot start' relay and been good for 10 years now.

 

Borrow a push button remote start switch and connect directly to the battery and the solenoid. If it holds and starts every time then it's the weak start signal. If still hard to keep the starter engaged then probably the solenoid.

 

 

 

Or find a scrapped RL411 with automatic transmission and steal its starter relay.  It will easily intgrate with the wiring harness.

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you could disconnect the starter wire

then get a wire from the + side battery and put it on the starter tab and hold it on there if it dont quit in 2 to 3 seconds then it has to be the switch  if it does quit in like 2 seconds it has to be the starter since you bypassed the switch

 

 

I woul just reseat the connector in back of key switch that might fix it or clean it.  maybe the contacks cant take a load.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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On 10/17/2021 at 1:29 PM, datzenmike said:

Could be the solenoid and could be the start signal from the ignition.

 

Probably a low voltage start signal from the ignition. Get a meter and pull the Black/Yellow stripe start wire off the starter and see what it is. When the starter engages it's like a dead short on the battery and the already low voltage signal may lower to the point that the solenoid can't hold on and releases. My 710 was about 7 volts from the voltage drop from long length and old wiring. Starting was hit and miss so I made a 'hot start' relay and been good for 10 years now.

 

Borrow a push button remote start switch and connect directly to the battery and the solenoid. If it holds and starts every time then it's the weak start signal. If still hard to keep the starter engaged then probably the solenoid.

 

 

I pulled the black yellow stripe from the starter and put my 12 Volt tester between it and the battery when I turn the key I get 11 point 4 volts.

 

If I connect a remote starter between the negative post on the solenoid and the positive on the battery, when I push the start button I can hear the solenoid but the Engine does not crank. So is this the solenoid or the ignition switch?

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Your remote starter button removes the ignition switch from the circuit. If still acting up then it;s the starter solenoid.

 

Battery is charged?

Battery posts and cables are clean and tight?

Battery ground cable tightly bolted to the head?

Battery positive cable secure to the starter?

Starter tightly bolted to the transmission?

 

If any of the above are iffy, full battery power will not be available to the starter to turn the engine.

 

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I had a similar non start but much whirring problem.  Turned out to be the shift fork [in light of a better word] had broken off one of the "Tines" and jammed the starter armature.  Rebuilt the starter with new parts and a cannibalized roadster starter fork and still works.

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Keep the old unit, you may never see another.  Cannibalism is the only real option on these starters today.  There are no readily available parts to buy.  Discrete 510 starter parts may in a pinch fit to be used in a cobbled up rebuild.  If the brushes are finally worn out take the old ones to a REAL hardware store and buy power tool brushes of the same cross section, they will fit if the power leads are long enough.

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12 minutes ago, MikeRL411 said:

Keep the old unit, you may never see another.  Cannibalism is the only real option on these starters today.  There are no readily available parts to buy.  Discrete 510 starter parts may in a pinch fit to be used in a cobbled up rebuild.  If the brushes are finally worn out take the old ones to a REAL hardware store and buy power tool brushes of the same cross section, they will fit if the power leads are long enough.

Thanks i will keep it for sure.

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