620 Hood Release Cable End Broke - Use Cable from New RH Drive Latch?

[Cardinal Grammeter]

Just about every latch for sale appears to be RH drive.  

 

Is it possible to make a LH release assembly from old LH and new RH?

 

Are the cable lengths the same?  RH vs LH drive

[datzenmike]

Longer doesn't matter. A pull cable will still work no matter the length. Too short simply doesn't reach.

[Rick-rat]

If you use a right hand cable you will have to push it instead of pulling it 🤣

[datzenmike]

They may have right hand hood locks and latches... then the cables would be the same.

[Cardinal Grammeter]

Still not seeing an answer here.  Need to do something soon with my vise grips hanging on the cable stub under the dash....

 

I would have thought the RH and LH drive versions would have been mirror images of each other which means the cable would be the same for both.

Edited October 15, 2021 by Cardinal Grammeter

[datzenmike]

That's what I said. Pull would have to be on the right side dash so the latch would have to also be pulled from the right.

[Cardinal Grammeter]

Yes, but do we know for sure?  I need to buy something, I have new seat and new exhaust and that damn vise grip is annoying.  

 

BTW, one parts guy wanted $170 for a used one.   WTF

Edited October 16, 2021 by Cardinal Grammeter

[datzenmike]

Get one from a 610/710/B210/S10/S110 or any other Datsun. All are LHD, all are more or less the same fender length. All are more or less the same latch position on the rad support. All are a nicer T handle. The 720 has a T handle and maybe a truck with hood up on it.

[Rick-rat]

Check at a bicycle shop or motorcycle shop, they may have a cable that will work

[datzenmike]

If available get the RHD one. Or from a 720

[Cardinal Grammeter]

Just ordered a RHD one.

 

Finally got a guy with a RHD one to measure cable length and it appears to be same length.

 

I'll remove the handle from the new one and fit into the old bracket.

[yenpit]

My experience with 510 & Z car is that the RHD latches PULL in the opposite direction........they are built opposite/mirror image.  All latches are in the center.  Pretty sure the pull HANDLES are simply in the same location, but on the other side.  That said, the cable itself should be a similar or same length, so I bet you CAN swap over the complete cable.

 

Other idea is go to a bicycle shop, buy new inner/outer cable (woven core is fine, don't need solid core) with a lead barrel end that will hook into the latch, then modify something at the handle end to create a "loop" etc.  Or find a similar eyelet & crimp on inner cable...........??

 

 

[Cardinal Grammeter]

Actually the fishing guys make loops with thimble inserts that would be ideal for the lever pull pin.  The fishing crimping tool is like a small bolt cutter.  What I don't like is that most places and on the internet solder the lead ball on the cable rather than crushing it on.  (If I remember correctly, solder does not wet stainless which is what the cable is made of.)

 

Well it's ordered so I'll hopefully install w/o issues.  I will probably repair or make a new cable from the old one if I have the time.

 

PS.  Did you see that IM I sent you about something else?

[Duncan]

I had a custom cable place build one for my RHD wagon.  I did buy an aftermarket cable pull first, and it was very low quality.

 

Something to browse to see what I am talking about.  

 

https://www.controlcables.com/

 

 

[Cardinal Grammeter]

UPDATE:  Finally installed RHD hood release cable.

 

PROBLEM:  Cable was NOT a mirror image:  While the cable was the same length, the SHEATH WAS NOT - it was shorter - so the sheath clamp on the hood latch could not be used - it was "grabbing air".

 

SOLUTION:  I simply relocated the sheath clamp about 6" to the right at a place where the sheath laid flat along the underside of the front panel.  This worked great.  I had to drill 2 holes which I had to do, but it was the most expeditious solution.

 

RH to LH METHOD:  Use the LH bracket:

 

1) Sheath Crimp Clip - remove rivet and the entire clip comes off w/o affecting the crimp.  Attach to LH bracket w/10-32 screw.

 

2) Pull Lever - This is more complicated since the rivet is a Shoulder Rivet which provides thrust clearance so lever can freely rotate about the bracket hole.  File/grind off the small end of the rivet, then drill a through hole .161" for an 8-32 screw.  The rivet then becomes a should bushing so the screw can be tightened up so the lever is free to rotate.  If you have a lathe, this is easy, if not, you can carefully do it with a center punch and drill - it doesn't have to be perfectly centered, just enough for the shoulder feature to do its job.

 

Probably have a solid 4 hours of work in it - of course took me all day to do it with numerous brakes - still have this 24/7 "hangover" feeling since last August when I broke the windshield with my head in my 87 Turbo Sprint car crash - damn thing just saps all my energy away (not that I had that much to begin with, Argh!  LOL)

 

NOTE:  I should have taken pics especially of the shoulder rivet but I didn't have my phone on me.  I'll probably take a few of what I can with it assembled and post here.

Edited March 6, 2022 by Cardinal Grammeter