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Starting problem


athoose

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For a while now, I'll turn the key in the ignition to start and I'll here a clunk but it won't start. I just turn the key off and on a few times and it fires up. So, i checked the volts on the little wire going to the starter solenoid. It hits 12 sometimes right off the bat when i hit the switch, other times, it hits 6 or 8 momentarily and then jumps to 12. Weirdly, i usually still hear the clunk even when it creeps up to 12 but won't start, i have to turn it again.

 

Any ideas? 

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Ignition switch. Try spraying liberally with an electronic contact cleaner. I think the actual switch attaches on to the back of the key cylinder but that may be the later ones. Early switches are integral. Well, spray the shit out of it and rinse it as best you can. Replacement if not. Or get a hot start relay... those will trigger on 6-7 v.

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On 10/13/2021 at 1:38 PM, datzenmike said:

Ignition switch. Try spraying liberally with an electronic contact cleaner. I think the actual switch attaches on to the back of the key cylinder but that may be the later ones. Early switches are integral. Well, spray the shit out of it and rinse it as best you can. Replacement if not. Or get a hot start relay... those will trigger on 6-7 v.

 

Yes, there's a connection on the back. Cleaned it but no help. Going to add a hot start relay. I've got these relays already. Can these work, notably the four prong ones? If so, is 1, connected to the solenoid wire. 2, to ground. 3, battery. 5. solenoid. 

IMG_20211016_202421956.jpg

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No it should only click with the ignition on START

 

IMG_20211016_202421956.jpg

 

 

On 10/16/2021 at 6:21 PM, datzenmike said:

The green or purple one will work.

1 to ground and 2 to the start wire pulled off the starter.

3 to a fused 12v source and 5 to the start terminal on the starter.

 

 

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4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

WHAT WAS THE FIX? RELAY.  YOU WIRE IT RIGHT?

Yeah, wasn't following the pin numbers on the bottom. But it has missed starting once already. So i took out the IGN cylinder and tested continuity. R and A terminal just dance around on ohms. Is there any way to take apart the cylinder and clean inside? Also, is this the hole you put a paper clip in to get the tumbler out? 

 

Also, my truck used to be an auto. When i swapped i soldiered the inhibitor switch wires. Last night i noticed the auto also has a relay. So i jumped the BY in and BY out wire, eliminating the relay and twenty feet of wire and multiple connector. Lol, the crimp terminals just fell apart when i took the wires apart. Still, didn't fix. That's why I'm looking at the cylinder.

 

IMG_20211025_140715740.jpg

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