athoose Posted October 13, 2021 Report Share Posted October 13, 2021 For a while now, I'll turn the key in the ignition to start and I'll here a clunk but it won't start. I just turn the key off and on a few times and it fires up. So, i checked the volts on the little wire going to the starter solenoid. It hits 12 sometimes right off the bat when i hit the switch, other times, it hits 6 or 8 momentarily and then jumps to 12. Weirdly, i usually still hear the clunk even when it creeps up to 12 but won't start, i have to turn it again. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 13, 2021 Report Share Posted October 13, 2021 Ignition switch. Try spraying liberally with an electronic contact cleaner. I think the actual switch attaches on to the back of the key cylinder but that may be the later ones. Early switches are integral. Well, spray the shit out of it and rinse it as best you can. Replacement if not. Or get a hot start relay... those will trigger on 6-7 v. Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted October 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2021 On 10/13/2021 at 1:38 PM, datzenmike said: Ignition switch. Try spraying liberally with an electronic contact cleaner. I think the actual switch attaches on to the back of the key cylinder but that may be the later ones. Early switches are integral. Well, spray the shit out of it and rinse it as best you can. Replacement if not. Or get a hot start relay... those will trigger on 6-7 v. Yes, there's a connection on the back. Cleaned it but no help. Going to add a hot start relay. I've got these relays already. Can these work, notably the four prong ones? If so, is 1, connected to the solenoid wire. 2, to ground. 3, battery. 5. solenoid. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 17, 2021 Report Share Posted October 17, 2021 The green or purple one will work. 1 to ground and 2 to the start wire pulled off the starter. 3 to a fused 12v source and 5 to the start terminal on the starter. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 18, 2021 Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 remember the voltage will go down to like 8 volts if the starter is turning. one way to check is get a wire from + side battery to the starter tab and if cranks fine then yes you could use a HOT start switch. maybe clean contack at starter swtch and at Tab. Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted October 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 Installed the relay and when i connect the battery i hear the really click. That shouldn't happen. Ideas? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 No it should only click with the ignition on START On 10/16/2021 at 6:21 PM, datzenmike said: The green or purple one will work. 1 to ground and 2 to the start wire pulled off the starter. 3 to a fused 12v source and 5 to the start terminal on the starter. Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted October 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 Is the diagram on top of the relay directly above their respective terminals? Lol, just noticed the small numbers on the underside. Not, above their respective terminals! Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted October 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 Starting great now!!! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 25, 2021 Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 WHAT WAS THE FIX? RELAY. YOU WIRE IT RIGHT? Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted October 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: WHAT WAS THE FIX? RELAY. YOU WIRE IT RIGHT? Yeah, wasn't following the pin numbers on the bottom. But it has missed starting once already. So i took out the IGN cylinder and tested continuity. R and A terminal just dance around on ohms. Is there any way to take apart the cylinder and clean inside? Also, is this the hole you put a paper clip in to get the tumbler out? Also, my truck used to be an auto. When i swapped i soldiered the inhibitor switch wires. Last night i noticed the auto also has a relay. So i jumped the BY in and BY out wire, eliminating the relay and twenty feet of wire and multiple connector. Lol, the crimp terminals just fell apart when i took the wires apart. Still, didn't fix. That's why I'm looking at the cylinder. Edited October 25, 2021 by athoose More info Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 25, 2021 Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 never took one apart I have spars for my 510 and 521 and been lucky so far they never went bad Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 25, 2021 Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 Probably. Once out try contact cleaner to flush out any dirt in the switch itself.. Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted October 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2021 Got the tumblers out. Could not see the contacts but appeared to be a gap to them. Hosed it with brake clean and that helped but not enough. Looks like I'll have to grab a new cylinder. Quote Link to comment
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