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2 minutes ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Because 521 is the sexiest and bestiest.  

I mean, I see alot more stuff for 620 and 720 than 520/521, aftermarket parts, swap kits, all that stuff. But maybe I'm just not one of the cool kids since I like the 521s better than the 620s and 720s

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18 minutes ago, Arifaeth said:

I mean, I see alot more stuff for 620 and 720 than 520/521, aftermarket parts, swap kits, all that stuff. But maybe I'm just not one of the cool kids since I like the 521s better than the 620s and 720s

That's pretty much the problem with the 520/521, not much support...

Its has gotten better, 15 years ago there was stuff I couldn't find that has been becoming available.

Depending on what your looking for I'm sure we can point you in the right direction....

Fyi make sure you compare what you have to what is being sold....

Things like the front inner wheel bearing is wrong no matter where you order it.... I sourced mine by the part number on the actual bearing...

Even the motor mounts and transmission mounts they try to sell are wrong... 

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13 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

That's pretty much the problem with the 520/521, not much support...

Its has gotten better, 15 years ago there was stuff I couldn't find that has been becoming available.

Depending on what your looking for I'm sure we can point you in the right direction....

Fyi make sure you compare what you have to what is being sold....

Things like the front inner wheel bearing is wrong no matter where you order it.... I sourced mine by the part number on the actual bearing...

Even the motor mounts and transmission mounts they try to sell are wrong... 

I'm mostly trying to source a good tailgate, that doesn't cost me as much as I bought the truck for, and other interior parts, like dash, and stuff. Bearings I can get, because I work for BDI (Bearing Distributors International) and as long as I have type of bearing, bore, outside diameter, and all that, I can get those. I'm sure TANKS makes a tank float/gauge thing, (the part that sits in the tank). And other parts like the headliner and carpet, I'm just gonna diy. But I'm mainly interested in aftermarket/performance parts, cause my long term goal for this truck is to have a street truck, that I can start going back to car meets, and stuff with, that'll be able to hit it pretty hard at a redlight, but is still daily drivable, (not that I'm going to, as my current daily gets like 3x the mileage, and has A/C. But I'm sure you get the jist. (I may turn it into a slight drifter, not like competition, but if I wanna slide around a parking lot, or a wide open corner, I wanna be able to burnout, and slide.)

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3 minutes ago, Arifaeth said:

I'm mostly trying to source a good tailgate, that doesn't cost me as much as I bought the truck for, and other interior parts, like dash, and stuff. Bearings I can get, because I work for BDI (Bearing Distributors International) and as long as I have type of bearing, bore, outside diameter, and all that, I can get those. I'm sure TANKS makes a tank float/gauge thing, (the part that sits in the tank). And other parts like the headliner and carpet, I'm just gonna diy. But I'm mainly interested in aftermarket/performance parts, cause my long term goal for this truck is to have a street truck, that I can start going back to car meets, and stuff with, that'll be able to hit it pretty hard at a redlight, but is still daily drivable, (not that I'm going to, as my current daily gets like 3x the mileage, and has A/C. But I'm sure you get the jist. (I may turn it into a slight drifter, not like competition, but if I wanna slide around a parking lot, or a wide open corner, I wanna be able to burnout, and slide.)

Ya those hard parts are tuff to find... best place is the ratsun classified..

 

Performance wise its debatable, for what I have into my L16 to get the extra power It would have been more cost effective doing a motor swap.  But to me everyone was motor swapping so I decided to build an L16 to be different... 

And I daily drive mine 75% of the year and love 2nd gear 6000 rpm pulls merging onto the highway ...

Also lsd differentials are hard to find for the h190 axle.... 

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17 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Ya those hard parts are tuff to find... best place is the ratsun classified..

 

Performance wise its debatable, for what I have into my L16 to get the extra power It would have been more cost effective doing a motor swap.  But to me everyone was motor swapping so I decided to build an L16 to be different... 

And I daily drive mine 75% of the year and love 2nd gear 6000 rpm pulls merging onto the highway ...

Also lsd differentials are hard to find for the h190 axle.... 

Yeah, I think my plan is, my girlfriends stepdad runs a parts yard, and they have lots all over the country, I'm gonna have him find me, either a ka24 or something along those lines out of a vehicle, so that I can get it for a few hundred bucks or so. And swap that in, then I've seen people do custom rearends on these trucks, but fabricating the rear end of the frame, to support a Miata rear end with independent suspension. Or find a rear end that will fit that is the same size, and swap that In there, and find a LSD for it. That way I'll get power, and be able to lock up both back tires, and get em burning. While having the upgraded suspension to keep it from wanting to hop as bad when sliding the back end out. It'll be a never ending project, but I'm only 20, so I've got a lot of time left. 😂 My plan to start out with, is get my J13 running good and strong, maybe swap over to a Weber carb, and a set of tri Y headers, and, I've found electronic ignition kits for this motor. To swap from points to electronic. And beef it up that way, to try and make a little more than the stock 67 herspers. Or, my brother has two spare motors put of his Honda, that I've been told (on a different forum, not sure what I'd have to do to pull it off) is similar size to the motor in the truck. But makes 98 herspers, and can be upgraded alot easier than this motor. Well see, for now, it's get it running strong, put new tires on it, lower the read end an level the front to match, and have some fun.

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3 minutes ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Straight clean tailgates were pricy 10 years ago.  Im sure its much worse now.  

 

You are in Oregon.  Im not sure if you know anyone who is into datsuns up there but getting to know folks will open doors and help facilitate deals.

Yeah, there's a guy up here called Datsun Mike (different guy, not the forums one) that apparently has a yard full of old Datsun cars and trucks, I just haven't asked him yet, as I'm still working on fixing the truck up fully.

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6 minutes ago, Arifaeth said:

Yeah, I think my plan is, my girlfriends stepdad runs a parts yard, and they have lots all over the country, I'm gonna have him find me, either a ka24 or something along those lines out of a vehicle, so that I can get it for a few hundred bucks or so. And swap that in, then I've seen people do custom rearends on these trucks, but fabricating the rear end of the frame, to support a Miata rear end with independent suspension. Or find a rear end that will fit that is the same size, and swap that In there, and find a LSD for it. That way I'll get power, and be able to lock up both back tires, and get em burning. While having the upgraded suspension to keep it from wanting to hop as bad when sliding the back end out. It'll be a never ending project, but I'm only 20, so I've got a lot of time left. 😂 My plan to start out with, is get my J13 running good and strong, maybe swap over to a Weber carb, and a set of tri Y headers, and, I've found electronic ignition kits for this motor. To swap from points to electronic. And beef it up that way, to try and make a little more than the stock 67 herspers. Or, my brother has two spare motors put of his Honda, that I've been told (on a different forum, not sure what I'd have to do to pull it off) is similar size to the motor in the truck. But makes 98 herspers, and can be upgraded alot easier than this motor. Well see, for now, it's get it running strong, put new tires on it, lower the read end an level the front to match, and have some fun.

Carburator and electronic ignition is about as far as I would go with a j13... those motors have even less performance support that the L series engine..... 

And sadly that 67 hp might be just the engine not what gets put down to the ground. so it might only be 55 hp..

The L16 engine tag claims I believe around 90-92 hp, to the ground it's closer to 67... 

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More like 47.8 to the ground . 
 

 

@waynohas some SUs that go on a J13 and he’s in Vancouver.. but would be more for show than anything and nowhere’s near cheap

  He also has some pretty good tips for putting electronic MG distributor in J motor . And … and he has/had jig to make a adapter plate to put five speed on a j 

 

 

.

Edited by bananahamuck
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4 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Carburator and electronic ignition is about as far as I would go with a j13... those motors have even less performance support that the L series engine..... 

And sadly that 67 hp might be just the engine not what gets put down to the ground. so it might only be 55 hp..

The L16 engine tag claims I believe around 90-92 hp, to the ground it's closer to 67... 

Yeah, I think till I swap the motor, carb, headers and electronic ignition will be the most I do, motor wise. Cause it's already got the j16 carb, the one with dual style choke. Which over been told is a bit bigger already, so maybe I'm a little closer to that 67 mark at the wheel (I know is bigger carb isn't always a bunch of extra HP, but maybe a couple.)

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1 minute ago, bananahamuck said:

More like 47.8 to the ground . 
 

 

.Wayno has some SUs that go on a J13 and he’s in Vancouver.. but would be more for show than anything and nowhere’s near cheap

Some SUs? I don't know the term.

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Skinner's Union. It's a carburetor that's also known as a constant velocity carburetor. The carburetor actually adjusts it's venturi size depending on how much air is going through it.

 

In the mid '70s they switched to net from gross HP. My '76 still says 110 hp but my '78 truck was 93?

 

You might consider throwing the box away and building a really nice flat bed. I could carry way more things on a flat bed 620.

 

There's not much sense replacing the rear end unless you gain an advantage. Both LSD and IRS are terribly over rated. LSD is only good in a straight line and a liability when turning/cornering. IRS is too much work to put in something designed for a solid axle. It's do able but it'll never be a car for handling. If going to a larger displacement KA then just swap a 3.889 H-190 differential 3rd member in and call it good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

'

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2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Skinner's Union. It's a carburetor that's also known as a constant velocity carburetor. The carburetor actually adjusts it's venturi size depending on how much air is going through it.

 

In the mid '70s they switched to net from gross HP. My '76 still says 110 hp but my '78 truck was 93?

 

You might consider throwing the box away and building a really nice flat bed. I could carry way more things on a flat bed 620.

 

There's not much sense replacing the rear end unless you gain an advantage. Both LSD and IRS are terribly over rated. LSD is only good in a straight line and a liability when turning/cornering. IRS is too much work to put in something designed for a solid axle. It's do able but it'll never be a car for handling. If going to a larger displacement KA then just swap a 3.889 H-190 differential 3rd member in and call it good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

'

Alright, I don't plan on this truck being used for truck things, I wanna get back into the car meet scene, and figured a "JDM" mini truck was a good idea, (while this specific truck is not technically JDM, Datsuns in general are typically still seen as such). So I plan to make it look good, sound good, and once I've got the money, make it powerfully enough to atleast spin the tires, maybe one day donuts, or even light drifting/power slides.

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1 hour ago, bananahamuck said:

Carburetors .. dual side draft .. cool looking 

 

should be able the google MG SUs and image search . I’m on phone or I would post pics 

You can still post pics on phone. I just learned that the other day. So long as it's downloaded to your phone, via camera, screenshot, or just straight download.

 

I think I'll look into those. I just googled them, besides the fact that they look like motorcycle carbs, (cause they pretty much are from what I can tell) they look like they can be pretty cool. Doesn't Webber make side draft carbs? It just sounds familiar.

 

Correction, they do, alot of the time they are on old Italian cars, and some early American sports race cars, like the Shelby Cobra.

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16 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Skinner's Union. It's a carburetor that's also known as a constant velocity carburetor. The carburetor actually adjusts it's venturi size depending on how much air is going through it.

 

In the mid '70s they switched to net from gross HP. My '76 still says 110 hp but my '78 truck was 93?

 

You might consider throwing the box away and building a really nice flat bed. I could carry way more things on a flat bed 620.

 

There's not much sense replacing the rear end unless you gain an advantage. Both LSD and IRS are terribly over rated. LSD is only good in a straight line and a liability when turning/cornering. IRS is too much work to put in something designed for a solid axle. It's do able but it'll never be a car for handling. If going to a larger displacement KA then just swap a 3.889 H-190 differential 3rd member in and call it good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

'

So, to go the road of doing a side draft, what am I looking at? New intake, the carb/carbs. Probably new peddle linkage and brackets. If you don't know, who should I get in contact with to figure it out?

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get a weber DGV carband call it good!!!!!!!!!

tailgates are out there. you have to drive to find them in a back yard somewhere. There was a ad a guy had like 3 in yard in eastern washington.

get one a kid was lowering the truck and bag it then loooses interest and dumps the whole truck. Common among Datsun Owners with NO MONEY.

 

 

I lay money your kingpns are shot and taking them apart and renewing is going to cost you min of 350$  so I would lay your priorityies on things you really need. Like get a electronic conversion or a EI distributor.

grease everything. buy spare master cylinders brake and clutch and spare slave.

get a 3 core radiator and esp heater hoses. as spares and use as needed.

just drive it. and be happy  a tail gate will come along when you are not wanting one.  a 521 will get smashed soon enought and it will be cheap

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2 hours ago, Arifaeth said:

 

 

Correction, they do, alot of the time they are on old Italian cars, and some early American sports race cars, like the Shelby Cobra.

 

Sports Car: A two seat car, usually a cabriolet fitted with a manual transmission and a minimum of comfort features.

 

The original AC Ace is British and the original 6 cylinder may have had SUs but that all changed in the early '60s. When Shelby started importing them. The AC Cobra was fitted with (a series of) Ford V8s and would have had a Holey 4bbl. I don't consider them a North American car any more than the Sunbeam tiger, also a British car maker with a Ford V8 stuffed into it. As for North American sports cars, the earliest Thunderbird was (sort of) a two seat sports car for a few years before becoming a bloated road barge, leaving only the Corvette.

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10 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Sports Car: A two seat car, usually a cabriolet fitted with a manual transmission and a minimum of comfort features.

 

The original AC Cobra is British and the original 6 cylinder may have had SUs but that all changed in the early '60s. When Shelby started importing them. The AC Cobra was fitted with (a series of) Ford V8s and would have had a Holey 4bbl. I don't consider them a North American car any more than the Sunbeam tiger, also a British car maker with a Ford V8 stuffed into it. As for North American sports cars, the earliest Thunderbird was (sort of) a two seat sports car for a few years before becoming a bloated road barge, leaving only the Corvette.

 

The original AC is not a Cobra.  The Cobra was an AC modified  to accept a Ford V8 [265 cu in as I recall] for the American market.  The "original" AC had a British manufactured Bristol straight 6 [originally a Germen design but Enemy Alien property sold off by the British Government similar to AGFA sold off by the US Government] with 3 Webers mounted down the middle.  That's why the AC has a bulge inthe middle of the hood [bonnet for the purists], to allow for the 3 webers.

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On 9/24/2021 at 11:35 AM, Arifaeth said:

You can still post pics on phone. I just learned that the other day. So long as it's downloaded to your phone, via camera, screenshot, or just straight download.

 

I think I'll look into those. I just googled them, besides the fact that they look like motorcycle carbs, (cause they pretty much are from what I can tell) they look like they can be pretty cool. Doesn't Webber make side draft carbs? It just sounds familiar.

 

Correction, they do, alot of the time they are on old Italian cars, and some early American sports race cars, like the Shelby Cobra.


 

i can post pics if I had some on phone or my Imgur account but I’m a PC type guy so pulling a picture of internet and copy/pasting posting is near impossible for me. 

 

  Where’s your build thread?? 

 

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1 minute ago, bananahamuck said:


 

i can post pics if I had some on phone or my Imgur account but I’m a PC type guy so pulling a picture of internet and copy/pasting posting is near impossible for me. 

 

  Where’s your build thread?? 

 

I don't know how to make one

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