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69 521 transmission?


Arifaeth

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Your F4W63 has an A type shift mechanism. AKA 'Monkey Motion' and is a well earned moniker. My '71, while driving along was so sloppy that on right hand turns it would flop over and hit my knee. You could move it in a circle the size of a basketball. Shortening isn't the answer.

 

WOgiN7j.jpg

 

The bottom of the shift lever is threaded and the tightened nut and washers squeeze the rubber cone bushings #8. I have no idea where you can get any but maybe you can jam something in there or wrap them to make a tighter fit? Perhaps stacking one or more washers in the middle where #9 is???

 

The striking pin #19 and the clips #18 can be replaced with a nut and bolt and washers to squeeze the fingers closer to the striking rod #20. Do NOT over tighten, this is just to remove the slack. It's like a hinge and must be free to move.

 

Control arm pin #17 can also be replaced with a nut bolt and washers, but retain or improve the fit of the control arm bushing #15. Again the bolt and nut can snug up the 'fingers' on the control arm #37 but must not be tight or you won't be able to shift. 

 

 

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38 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Your F4W63 has an A type shift mechanism. AKA 'Monkey Motion' and is a well earned moniker. My '71, while driving along was so sloppy that on right hand turns it would flop over and hit my knee. You could move it in a circle the size of a basketball. Shortening isn't the answer.

 

WOgiN7j.jpg

 

The bottom of the shift lever is threaded and the tightened nut and washers squeeze the rubber cone bushings #8. I have no idea where you can get any but maybe you can jam something in there or wrap them to make a tighter fit? Perhaps stacking one or more washers in the middle where #9 is???

 

The striking pin #19 and the clips #18 can be replaced with a nut and bolt and washers to squeeze the fingers closer to the striking rod #20. Do NOT over tighten, this is just to remove the slack. It's like a hinge and must be free to move.

 

Control arm pin #17 can also be replaced with a nut bolt and washers, but retain or improve the fit of the control arm bushing #15. Again the bolt and nut can snug up the 'fingers' on the control arm #37 but must not be tight or you won't be able to shift. 

 

 

Do they not make "aftermarket" or different mechanisms for the transmissions? To change how it shifts?

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The only aftermarket item ever for that transmission shifter was a pair of solid tapered aluminum bushing that replaced the soft rubber bushings. That mod firmed it up a bit, but the throws remained the same.

 

There are a handful of small bushings in the strike rod and shift rod pivot mechanism that can wear out, leaving you with a ton of play. The plastic cross pin bushings can be replaced with bronze for a slightly firmer feel too.

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15 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

The only aftermarket item ever for that transmission shifter was a pair of solid tapered aluminum bushing that replaced the soft rubber bushings. That mod firmed it up a bit, but the throws remained the same.

 

There are a handful of small bushings in the strike rod and shift rod pivot mechanism that can wear out, leaving you with a ton of play. The plastic cross pin bushings can be replaced with bronze for a slightly firmer feel too.

Got it, alright, looks like I'll probably just wrap it in some kind of like ,rubber tape or something to add material and hope that helps

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The rubber bushings(#8) have shown up on ebay several times.  You should be able to look at the mechanism and it's pieces and see where the slop is.  There's no easy way to make any kind of short shifter for it......at least not one that would be affordable. lol

 

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However this style shifter was used on all later PL521s, 510s, 610s, 710s, A10s Roadster and the first year 240z.

 

Cutting the shift lever reduces the mechanical leverage making shifting a little stiffer. It also makes it hard to reach comfortably. You should be able to shift into every gear with your  back against the seat. Nothing looks worse than someone leaning forward and fumbling for the shifter. The best way would be to design it so the fulcrum pin #17, was higher. 1/2 to 3/4" would be plenty. Mechanical advantage would be sacrificed but the shifter length would remain the same. This will shorten the throw forward and back but won't affect the sideways shift through the neutral gate.

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