Wheel alignment after power steering swap

[matrophy]

Just swapped in a PS setup from an '83 4WD 720 into my '86 2WD 720.

 

I don't think I need to do a wheel alignment since everything went together easily and I didn't disturb any of the other steering parts.

 

I just want to make sure that I'm not missing something and should have an alignment done. I had an alignment maybe 5000 miles ago after I completely redid the front steering and suspension.

 

 I did have to swap the Pitman arm from my 2WD on to the 4WD box but it lined right back up with the center link with the wheels and steering wheel at their centers

[datzenmike]

It's fine.

[Draker]

If you didn’t tonight the tie rods or track rod, nothing to worry about.

[datzenmike]

To check the alignment set up two tight string lines the height of the front axle. They need to be as perfectly parallel as you can make them and wide enough to drive comfortably between them on level ground. The distance apart does not matter but anywhere measured between the two sides must be exactly the same.

 

Drive the car straight between the strings and measure from the strings to the front edge and the rear edge of the rims. I don't like to measure to the rubber side walls because... rubber, bumps, damage or defects. Rims are much better for this. Add the two fronts and add the two read distances. Front should be less than the rear for 'toe in'. Subtract the front from the rear. On my 710 it's between one and two mm of toe in. Back the car out and repeat. The numbers will change but the answer will be repeatable.

[Charlie69]

Take it to an ailignment shop for free test.

[datzenmike]

If only the PS box was changed and the pitman arm and everything else is from the '86 there will be no change in alignment. Prior to '83 the 2wd and 4x4 pitman arms and idler arms were the same. "83 and on pitman arms are different somehow from 2wd.

[matrophy]

On 9/10/2021 at 9:48 AM, datzenmike said:

If only the PS box was changed and the pitman arm and everything else is from the '86 there will be no change in alignment. Prior to '83 the 2wd and 4x4 pitman arms and idler arms were the same. "83 and on pitman arms are different somehow from 2wd.

I haven't driven it about 30 mph yet and once I do and if feel anything funky I might take Charlie's suggestion about a free check. I'll have to say that the power steering is SO nice!

[datzenmike]

Take your credit card with you cause they will  find something.  

 

[matrophy]

10 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Take your credit card with you cause they will  find something.  

 

Good point

[Charlie69]

2 hours ago, matrophy said:

I'll have to say that the power steering is SO nice!

That is what I will say when I have the EPS set up in my trucks, I have already stripped off the power steering so I am back to arm strong steering.

[matrophy]

2 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

That is what I will say when I have the EPS set up in my trucks, I have already stripped off the power steering so I am back to arm strong steering.

I'm looking forward to hearing how the EPS swap goes. Do you think there will be a lot of fab work?

[Charlie69]

Yes, I have one of the EPS units from a 2009 Nissan Versa and my brother and I laid it out with a tilt and non tilt column and it looks to be easier to use a tilt column for this mod rather than a non tilt.  This is why we decided to wait until winter to do this.  I will document the swap well with text and pictures here.  I have 3 trucks to do so we will have practice and be able to fine tune the setup.

 

I will lay it out with both a tilt and non tilt column and take some pictures after I get my garage cleaned out.

Edited September 12, 2021 by Charlie69

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 9/9/2021 at 6:49 AM, datzenmike said:

To check the alignment set up two tight string lines the height of the front axle. They need to be as perfectly parallel as you can make them and wide enough to drive comfortably between them on level ground. The distance apart does not matter but anywhere measured between the two sides must be exactly the same.

 

Drive the car straight between the strings and measure from the strings to the front edge and the rear edge of the rims. I don't like to measure to the rubber side walls because... rubber, bumps, damage or defects. Rims are much better for this. Add the two fronts and add the two read distances. Front should be less than the rear for 'toe in'. Subtract the front from the rear. On my 710 it's between one and two mm of toe in. Back the car out and repeat. The numbers will change but the answer will be repeatable.

To check toe, I use 3ft long pieces of aluminum channel, and since I work alone, I bungee cord each one to each front wheel (horizontally, just below wheel centerline), then use a tape measure to measure the  distance between the two behind the tire and then in front of the tire. Example - If it's 59" in the rear and 58.75" in the front, you've got .250" toe in.

[datzenmike]

I thought of that but you can't  (I couldn't) measure across the back through fenders and oil pan. Also rubber? I don't think rubber tires are that precisely molded and then there are possible lumps or bumps. I like to measure in to the rim edge which is machined. My 710 is 4 to 6mm. 0.18-0.25"

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yes, you have to go low enough to clear the oil pan and other parts, but even on low cars, you can still find the room.

 

And also yes, the tires do have bumps on the sidewalls, but if you fit the bar across an even surface, or even across the same bumps on either side of the tire, it's pretty accurate. At least within a 1/16 or so.

 

Funny things is, I always set toe by eye first, and then check it with my toe boards, and I'm almost always right on the money. It's a personal challenge.