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521 - Left Tie Rod (Side Rod)


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The left one on the pitman arm is bent slightly to the front before continuing over to the left knuckle. The right one on the idler arm also starts off being towards the front of the truck before turning and continuing over to the right knuckle. I think this is to clear the ball joint directly behind it on the idler or pitman when the steering is over at full lock. For example the right one transits in front of the ball joint on the idler when turned to the left. Being bent forward affords more clearance. A right side on the left would face to the rear slightly and surely would collide with the ball joint behind it on the pitman arm.

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Turn full L&R. Is there clearance with the ball joints behind them on the idler and the pitman arm?


This was a Nissan picture. If straight they should interchange. If RocAuto (r w/e) only has one and are straight.... maybe that's because they fit both sides.


The 620 ends look straight....

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Let me know if the list below looks good. I'm using 1980 720 parts. RA seems to have everything in stock.


How many set of bushings would be required?

ENERGY SUSPENSION 913101R Red; Tie Rod Dust Boot; Pack of 2 Info
Round Style; Largest Dia. Taper 0.59 in./15mm; Socket Top Dia. 1-3/8 in./35mm


MEVOTECH MES2473R {#4852101W00, ES2473R} Supreme Info One of our most popular parts  - 2X
Front Inner; RWD
DELPHI TA1538 {#4852001G25, 4852041W00} Info One of our most popular parts   - 2X
Outer; RWD
MEVOTECH MES2050S {#4851228501, ES2050S} Supreme Info   -   2X
Front; RWD
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You are working with a truck that is over 50 years old, that makes it an antique.


The right side are common the left side is harder to find.  Click on links below these are ebay lising and both sides total less than $200.








Edited by Charlie69
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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Oilspot said:

do you have any clearance issues setup like this????


None that I know of. My 521 has always turned like a bus though, so maybe I do. The tie rods that I bought were both listed for the 521. I got one from Rock Auto and one from Amazon, since RA didn't have it. 


ACDelco 45A2013 (left), and 45A2012 (right)

Edited by mainer311
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  • 2 weeks later...

I thought about starting another thread, but there's already a lot of info in this one, so I'll dump everything here.  I bought a set of left and right outer tie rod assemblies back in June.  They've been sitting on my bench, waiting for me to take these pics and post them.  There is definitely a left and right.  I took a bunch of pics of the ones I have with some of the purchasing info.  I've ordered from Kentigo in Mexico several times before.  I decided to put these all on my photobucket account.  Had it just been one or two pics, would have just uploaded them here.  


As for the angles at each end.....if you're running stock ride height, then the angles are a lot more necessary than if you've lowered the front suspension.






I've ordered a set of these to check with my ball joint conversion.  The bar in the center would be a lot easier/cheaper to create in a shorter/longer version than it is with the HB tie rods.






Here's the page with the info I have for the tie rod setups I've used with the ball joint conversions.  I don't recall the thread size/pitch, but it might be possible to find an existing turnbuckle that is longer.  I needed shorter.  Midwest Control Products would be a good place to start looking for one if needed.   





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On 9/17/2021 at 8:22 AM, mainer311 said:


None that I know of. My 521 has always turned like a bus though, so maybe I do. The tie rods that I bought were both listed for the 521. I got one from Rock Auto and one from Amazon, since RA didn't have it. 


ACDelco 45A2013 (left), and 45A2012 (right)

My 521 has a super tight turning radius, like I can make a single turn U-turn on a regular residential street with cars parked on one side - much tighter than any fwd vehicle...

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If someone wanted to do some R&D, you could probably make an entirely custom tie rod set using circle track race car stuff. The only crucial measurement here is the taper on the tie rod end, but even then, you could re-taper the steering arm and center link with a taper ream, which can be had for about $40.


There's got to be something here to get this done - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search?query=tie rod

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