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Duncan's (sort of) project - 1940 Ford


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On 10/8/2021 at 10:38 AM, Duncan said:

I'm going to go to a remote trans cooler mounted somewhere under that car. 

 

 

FWIW, we have used these 3 times with good success. They can be mounted along the frame rail to keep them out of the way.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/121715788096

 

They come in a variety of sizes, and in either black or polished. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

 

 

FWIW, we have used these 3 times with good success. They can be mounted along the frame rail to keep them out of the way.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/121715788096

 

They come in a variety of sizes, and in either black or polished. 

 

 

 

I've been reading about those, as well.  One guy said he has two of those hooked up in series to a big Allison diesel and it works well.  

 

My existing cooler is solid, and it blocks the incoming air to my condenser and radiator.  I do like the idea of a fan on the trans cooler, though.  Living on So Cal, getting stuck in traffic on a hot day is a fairly regular occurence..

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So I had this battery cutoff switch in my trunk.  Looked bitchin, didn't work.

 

Old switch. Had a key and was kinda wimpy.

oldsw.jpg

 

I put a real beefy switch into my wagon, and it was rated at 250 amp surge, and a total of 1250 or so constant.  So I bought the same one for my Coupe.

newsw.jpg

 

The old switch was mounted to a custom bracket on the floor, so I welded on a piece on the new bracket to make this one work with the existing bracket.  (Why reinvent the wheel)  It was nice to actually turn up my welder and burn a thick piece of metal.  The last 6-7 years was spent doing 95% sheet metal tacking.  I felt like a man again actually running a solid weld bead 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

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This is rather curious...  This was attached to both terminals of the old cutoff switch.

 

fuze.jpg

 

I was wrapping up the install of my new cutoff switch this morning, and noticed my trunk light didn't go out with the switch being turned off.  I started looking at the wiring and discovered this inline fuse that was attached to both side of the switch.  Someone in the past did this to bypass the switch.  I don't understand having a switch and wanting to bypass it completely.  I pulled out my battery charger and a test light and checked the old switch.  Sure enough, the old switch worked fine. 

 

I moved the extra hookups over to the other side of the switch, so now everything turns off with the switch.  Yet another thing I have never seen before..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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23 hours ago, Duncan said:

Someone in the past did this to bypass the switch.  I don't understand having a switch and wanting to bypass it completely.

 

If you have things in the car that need constant power for a memory (like a radio, etc), then you "need" this. The circuit breaker keeps you from accidentally using this wire to actually start the car because the amp load from the starter will just trigger the breaker. 

 

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1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

 

If you have things in the car that need constant power for a memory (like a radio, etc), then you "need" this. The circuit breaker keeps you from accidentally using this wire to actually start the car because the amp load from the starter will just trigger the breaker. 

 

 

I thought about that, but by connecting it across the two posts on the switch itself, it renders the entire switch useless.  The jumper didn't feed anything, it was just a terminal jump. If you needed constant power, you could always hook it to the battery side of the cutoff switch, or the battery itself.  (With an inline fuse, also)

 

As an an additional thought, I have never had to use one of these switches for any emergency.  I've had a couple of these in other cars, and only used them when changing a starter, alternator, etc which requires disconnecting the battery, anyway.   

 

Which reminds me I still need to reset my radio stations and clock 🙂

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/11/2021 at 6:18 AM, datsunfreak said:

 

FWIW, we have used these 3 times with good success. They can be mounted along the frame rail to keep them out of the way.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/121715788096

 

They come in a variety of sizes, and in either black or polished.

 

Have you used these as stand alone trans coolers? 

 

I was really wanting one of the tube and finned coolers with a fan, but there is really nowhere to mount it under my car.

 

Just wondering if it will be enough cooling for my 200r in stop and go traffic.  I know how hot it gets in Texas.

 

 

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5 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Yes, we've used them for an oil cooler and a trans cooler. Tim's van is currently using one as a trans cooler. 👍

 

Thanks.  I recently replaced my non-working trans temperature gauge, and the trans MAYBE gets to 160 on a very hot day, so the longest one I can fit on the frame rail will probably do just fine.  Hopefully, anyway.

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  • 4 weeks later...

consew.jpg

 

Been cramming my brain with learning about upholstery machines, and literally stole this one today.  Bought it from a nice older couple.  They bought it brand new a year ago, and the wife did some canvas and vinyl work on their boat.  I was the first one to answer their ad and told them that I would gladly pay their asking price in cash if the machine was as they said.  It was, and I did.  I paid quite a bit less for this than I paid the upholsterer to do the carpet in my wagon.

 

Anyway, I have a lot to learn, but I'm up for the challenge.  Once I start doing some stuff, I'll probably start a sewing/upholstery thread. 

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  • 1 month later...

Wow!  Got my 8.8 Ford rear axle in, and what a HUGE difference.  I went from a 270 rear ratio to a 373 limited slip diff.  Feels like a LOT more horsepower and grunt.  I can actually drive the car in 4th around town now.  Since I don't have to put my foot in it so much to get moving, I'm sure my gas mileage will improve also.

 

As an added (and unexpected bonus) the car sits about 1" lower in the rear. (Which I was looking for, as well.)

 

The entire rear assembly is completely new.  (except the housing)

 

88rear.jpg

Edited by Duncan
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Been spending a lot of time trying to learn how to sew.  Sewing vinyl pleats and the different seams isn't too hard, but trying to do carpet binding is giving me quite a challenge.  I'm slowly getting the hang of it, but it's not quite there yet,,

 

binding.jpg 

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literally stole this one today"

 

And the brand name is "Consew".

 

Bro, really, you couldn't have even made that up.

 

All that aside, the carpet piece above looks pretty good from here.

 

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3 hours ago, KELMO said:

literally stole this one today"

 

And the brand name is "Consew".

 

 

 

Good one, Kelly.  It's stands for Consolidated Sewing from Japan.  🙂

 

Although I could have easily become a con at a few points in my life....

 

As far as the sewing, if I was doing the binding "for real" I would have used black thread on the top stitches.  I'm using the white so I can see what the stitches look like and (hopefully)  learn from my mistakes.  I've started re-doing the trunk and haven't gotten too far yet.  I'll stick up some photos once I get just a bit father down the road, warts and all...

 

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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Trying the Ratsun upload for photos. Appears I lost yet another free photo hosting site. My existing photos are still there, but it appears they are holding them ransom until I pay a fee.  I can't even download them, either..  Oh well. 

 

I'm re-doing my trunk.  I didn't like the three boards along the back, so I'm changing it to a single piece.  I'm somewhat wood-working challenged, so it was a lot of back-and-forth for me to get it right.  I broke up the rear area into three templates, then I taped them together to make one wood template.  I'm sure there's a better way to do this, but it worked out.

 

I still have to trim a bit here and there, (then come up with some design for the upholstery) but I'm enjoying the process.

 

 

 

trunk12.jpg

trunk11.jpg

 

If I was a badass, I could upholster the inside of the truck lid to match, but don't want to get carried away..

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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14 hours ago, Duncan said:

If I was a badass, I could upholster the inside of the truck lid to match, but don't want to get carried away..

 

At this point, I wouldn't think you'd have too much trouble making a wood piece to cover it, then upholstering that? Perhaps something that attached to the lid via rivnuts? 

 

I did something like that and used stainless screws with upholstery washers...

 

nas391b4pm.jpg

 

 

Due to the curve of the lid, it would only take 2-4 well placed screws to hold it on?

Edited by datsunfreak
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1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

 

At this point, I wouldn't think you'd have too much trouble making a wood piece to cover it, then upholstering that? Perhaps something that attached to the lid via rivnuts? 

Due to the curve of the lid, it would only take 2-4 well placed screws to hold it on?

 

I only mention it because I googled "1940 Ford trunk" to see what others have done upholstery-wise with their trunks. 

 

Some of the show cars look like little luxury suites in Las Vegas 🙂 

 

I'm sure it could be done easy enough, but I'm going more for a clean, functional look. 😎

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

If you asked me if I would be doing my own upholstery a year ago, I would have thought you were crazy, but here's first upholstered panel of three for my '40 trunk.  The new carpet and trunk mat have been done for a bit.  That rear panel was the hardest piece I needed to do, so I did it first..

 

large.rpanel.jpg.ee4f7b5ce2664b23f2cac3e

 

Depending on the cost, I decided to replace the two 1/8" plywood side panels with aluminum panels.  The side pieces are under tension to hold their shape, and I think in cold or hot weather, they would probably tend to shrink and expand causing problems.  I have some curved interior panels in the car that are .060 aluminum, and they do fine.  I'm thinking spend a bit more now, prevent headaches later.

 

The rear panel is 5.2mm plywood which is roughly 3/8" or so, and it's quite robust...

 

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Thanks guys.  Working on door panels next.  Similar design.  Pleats on the lower portion, plain material on the top.

 

Based on what I learned from doing the trunk, I'm sure I can improve and make the door panels better.  I hope so, anyway...

 

drpnl.jpg

Edited by Duncan
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13 hours ago, mrbigtanker said:

Wow those all came out beautiful 

 

Thanks Ray.  Just removing that red tweed material made it look better

 

The color always looks washed out in the photos, but it's a dark Burgundy.

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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