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521 Distributor - Replace or Rebuild


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On 7/27/2021 at 5:57 PM, datzenmike said:

NO!!!! Do NOT throw parts at this. What will happen is a sub standard piece of shit made in China/Taiwan will introduce 4 other problems. Keep the original distributor it's good quality. Only thing that wears out are the points and maybe the condenser. This is normal.

 

 

 

Datsun Distributor2.jpg

 

Those points look OK.

 

Pull the Blue/Yellow stripe wire off and electric tape it. This will get rid of the retarded set and it will run full proper advance on the primary points.

 

 

Datsun Distributor.jpg

 

The primary points (Black wire) set on the high point of the cam so they are fully open and adjust or check that it's opening to 0.020".  

 

Pull the high voltage wire of the center of the distributor cap and hold about 1/4" away from the intake manifold or anything grounded and turn the engine over with the starter. Got nice fat spark??? I bet you do. Your running problem isn't electrical, probably carburetor.

Thanks for your help. I finally had time to get to my truck. removed the blue/yellow wire like you suggested and replaced one set of points and one condenser. "Got a nice fat spark" - went to the carburetor with a friend who adjusted the valves and fixed the throttle. it runs good right now. Its just sticking a little when revving up and seems to idle high (about 1500rpms).    

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Put a return spring on the Weber linkage.  When installing a Weber DGEV on any thing I always take the origigal linkage piece of the stock carb and install it on the Weber, this insures proper throttle cable hook up.  Also be sure the the cable is not adjusted to tight preventing the carb not to fully return to idle.

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On 7/20/2021 at 12:23 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Dual point distributors can be made to work with the Pertronix.

Stoffregen: I think I've seen you mention in a couple of threads that it's possible to make the Pertronix work in an L16 dual point distributor. I've searched online and in the forums for info on doing this, but to no avail. Can you direct me to a procedure? Finally got my engine back from the machine shop after 6 months and I'm starting to assemble it. T

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Once you remove the points, I think the only difference between a single and dual point distributor is the clocking of the vacuum advance, and thus, the hole out of which the Pertronix wires stick through. It's been a long time, but I think those two holes are the only difference.

 

Do you have the Pertronix and the distributor? Go ahead and tear into it. It's pretty straight forward.

 

Note - when manufacturers specify what parts fit and what they don't fit, they are talking about direct fit. So if you read somewhere that the Pertronix will not fit a dual point distributor, technically they are right, but it does work, even though it's not a direct fit.

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Once you remove the points, I think the only difference between a single and dual point distributor is the clocking of the vacuum advance, and thus, the hole out of which the Pertronix wires stick through. It's been a long time, but I think those two holes are the only difference.

 

Do you have the Pertronix and the distributor? Go ahead and tear into it. It's pretty straight forward.

 

Note - when manufacturers specify what parts fit and what they don't fit, they are talking about direct fit. So if you read somewhere that the Pertronix will not fit a dual point distributor, technically they are right, but it does work, even though it's not a direct fit.

OK, that sounds reasonable. I thought maybe mounting holes would have to be drilled in the plate or something, which is easy enough if needed. I don't have the Pertronix yet. I actually have a couple of the distributors so can choose the better one. Thanks for the info. T

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Hey guys i was a bit curious can someone tell me if a distributor with dual points off a L16 work on a j13? Cant find the vacuum advance for j13 so looking at that other distributor email me please if possible (edwin.ale814@gmail.com)

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I think the "J" motor dizzy is driven by a gear whereas an "L" motor is a slot type affair.

 

I could be wrong, it happens alot.

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I was going to agree with you but checked. It's actually similar to the L series. There is a gear on a spindle driven by gear 3/4 along the camshaft. The top of the spindle is slotted to fit the bottom of the distributor shaft and the spindle bottom drives the oil pump

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I was going to agree with you but checked. It's actually similar to the L series. There is a gear on a spindle driven by gear 3/4 along the camshaft. The top of the spindle is slotted to fit the bottom of the distributor shaft and the spindle bottom drives the oil pump

So if i take the spindle off can i possibly change it out with the one on my truck and get it going?

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Similar. Not the same. L16 distributor will not fit the J13

 

On 4/22/2022 at 3:54 PM, Ed_zaz17 said:

Hey guys i was a bit curious can someone tell me if a distributor with dual points off a L16 work on a j13? Cant find the vacuum advance for j13 so looking at that other distributor email me please if possible (edwin.ale814@gmail.com)

 

If only the vacuum advance is missing run without it. It'll run without while you search for another or another distributor.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Similar. Not the same. L16 distributor will not fit the J13

 

 

If only the vacuum advance is missing run without it. It'll run without while you search for another or another distributor.

Well now im curious what exactly does the vacuum advance do? Also im headed to some junk yards tomorrow to see if any datsun models used the same type as mine

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Very generally when an engine is under light load it needs timing advance. Small amount of air and gas even when compressed takes longer to fully burn because there is more space between the molecules. Heavy throttle, the cylinder is full and when compressed the molecules are tightly packed and burn faster.

 

As vacuum is higher at idle and light load and virtually no vacuum when pedal is floored it's an excellent way to advance the distributor timing based on load.

 

Vacuum advance just increases engine efficiency under light load conditions.

 

I don't have my vacuum advance connected and it runs fine. I would rather have it than not.

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The answer is yes, but that particular dual point distributor is something people get rid of.

 

Mike, you can put a Matchbox distributor in a J13/15 and even an E1 block in a 320, all you have to do is remove the drive and put the drive from the engine you want it to fit, but that is a lot of work also unless you know what you are doing.

 

If you want a fast fix Ed_zaz17, just buy an MG Midget or MGB distributor(pre-1980 I think) and the mount if it does not come with one, it is a bolt in, they also sell electronic ignition versions which is your best avenue, they bolt right in and after timed your ready to go, I do not remember if you can use the J13 mount, I think you can with modifications, but you need to know what you are doing.

 

I did a thread about this in the 320 section, it is likely several pages buried.

 

OK, I found the thread, a lot of the photos, links, ect are gone, Photolame locked my account due to me not logging in for several tears, I have been ignoring there lowlife threats, not sure if the thread makes sense anymore without the photos, but I think I descrived the distributors one can use.

 

https://ratsun.net/topic/71387-electronic-ignition-upgrade-for-your-datsun-320-truck/

 

Edited by wayno
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Ok so i did a little research and a friend of mine said that if you go to oreilys and look up part # 33-0162 it looks the same as the one thats on a j13 (he wasnt too sure if it fits or not) i bought it and will update you all if the vacuum advance will fit on the distributor of a j13 

 

p.s its a special order so youll spend at least $50😅

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Personally I would not waste my time trying to fix a distributor that is hard to find basic parts for, all you need is a new distributor that you can find parts for thru the MG community, they make parts for these cars new and aftermarket, you can find points/caps/condensers/ect right now, the early E1 and J13 blocks have been left out in the cold.

Here are some distributors on ebay that I believe will bolt right on your J13 block, two are electronic and one is a points distributor.

 

Electronic distributors with mounts.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/151175805194?fits=Model%3AMidget|Make%3AMG&hash=item2332c7b90a:g:BKYAAOSwRLZUAfJ1

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162537529858?fits=Model%3AMidget|Make%3AMG&hash=item25d7fde202:g:t4gAAOSwxH1UA3V4

 

Points distributor with mount.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/161242440885?fits=Model%3AMidget|Make%3AMG&epid=18020516127&hash=item258acc64b5:g:iPgAAOSwtPlbYdvg

 

If you were to buy one of these you would remove your distributor and mount and install one of these, the mounts can be timed 360 degrees, you just pick where you want number 1 plug and go from there, you don't need to fix anything, install it, time it, and drive it, I would go with an electronic one myself, the links above are only going to be good for as long as the ebay ads are good, I suspect you could go to the local MG parts place and buy what you need there also, but ebay is a lot cheaper, and they might not be made in China.

Edited by wayno
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1 hour ago, wayno said:

Personally I would not waste my time trying to fix a distributor that is hard to find basic parts for, all you need is a new distributor that you can find parts for thru the MG community, they make parts for these cars new and aftermarket, you can find points/caps/condensers/ect right now, the early E1 and J13 blocks have been left out in the cold.

Here are some distributors on ebay that I believe will bolt right on your J13 block, two are electronic and one is a points distributor.

 

Electronic distributors with mounts.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/151175805194?fits=Model%3AMidget|Make%3AMG&hash=item2332c7b90a:g:BKYAAOSwRLZUAfJ1

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162537529858?fits=Model%3AMidget|Make%3AMG&hash=item25d7fde202:g:t4gAAOSwxH1UA3V4

 

Points distributor with mount.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/161242440885?fits=Model%3AMidget|Make%3AMG&epid=18020516127&hash=item258acc64b5:g:iPgAAOSwtPlbYdvg

 

If you were to buy one of these you would remove your distributor and mount and install one of these, the mounts can be timed 360 degrees, you just pick where you want number 1 plug and go from there, you don't need to fix anything, install it, time it, and drive it, I would go with an electronic one myself, the links above are only going to be good for as long as the ebay ads are good, I suspect you could go to the local MG parts place and buy what you need there also, but ebay is a lot cheaper, and they might not be made in China.


 

I definitely plan on doing this soon but i kinda already bought the part so still wouldnt hurt to check if this vacuum advance would work. Ive heard that with a electronic distributor it starts alot easier? Is that correct bc that would be really helpful if so.

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When the starter is engaged turning the engine there is huge load on the battery and the available voltage drops reducing the ignition output compared to when just running. Points are mechanical and subject to wear and arcing so are only optimal when recently new. An EI distributor has no mechanical parts and works using solid state transistors and remains optimum at all times. During start the EI distributor and coil produce a hotter spark than a points set up. You might notice a difference starting cold with less than perfect spark plugs but the main advantage of the EI is they are maintenance free. No points to replace, or adjust. Set and basically forget.

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