Battery exploded now truck won't run

[1lo620]

Ok wipers work turn signals and brake lights do not work and headlights and running lights work also 

[datzenmike]

Alright. So if the wipers work then power is getting to the ignition switch and sent to the fuse box.

 

OK split the two part clam shell around the steering column so you can get at the ignition switch.

 

Test for power on the Black/White wire when ignition is turned to ON. Should read 12v or battery.

 

Test for power on the Black/Red wire in the START position. Should be 12v or battery.

 

Try unplugging several times to clean the connection.

 

 

[1lo620]

I don't have a volt meter all I have is a testing light. Is there a chance it is the petronix distributor upgrade that may have gone bad. I can order one or it needs to go to a shop. I can't figure it out. It was running great until the batter blow up and the voltage regulator going bad. This electrical stuff frustrates me so much. 

And as it is my only transportation at this moment I need to figure it out. And get it running again. 

[1lo620]

So looks like I need to invest in a volt meter. Maybe that will help to locate issue with my truck. 

[datzenmike]

Test light is fine for now. You said no power to the coil and that comes directly from the ignition switch. From my questions we know that power at least gets to the switch so now test Black/White and Black/Red wire on the switch for 12v power in the on and start positions. If not there, the switch is bad.

 

It is a slow process but it moves ever closer to the problem. Process of elimination.

 

Unplugging and plugging back in, may seat the connection better.

[banzai510(hainz)]

He said he did NOT have POWER to the + side coil.  No powert to + side coil means most likely Pertronix is not going to work

 

Actually he will have like 6 volts at the + side coil as it goes thru a ballast resistor. , The +side ballast should have 12volt with key ON  then other said ballast should be 6 volts to the coil If noting the wire fell off or ballast bad or corroded connector

Edited June 29, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[]2eDeYe]

 

On 6/28/2021 at 5:41 AM, 1lo620 said:

So looks like I need to invest in a volt meter. Maybe that will help to locate issue with my truck. 

 

 

With a volt meter you can check continuity at the ballast resistor all the way back to the black wire with white stripe at the key (that is ignition on). 

 

 

 

You can still troubleshoot this with a test light though.

 

Check for power at the ignition relay. It is on the passenger fender well and will have that same black with white wire connected to it. 3 of them actually.

There should be constant power to one of the b/w wires and power to the other 2 with the ignition switch on, the black wire should ground. 

If one of these is not working correctly it will tell you what to check next. 

 

 

 

[]2eDeYe]

[]2eDeYe]

It is the metal relay

[datzenmike]

Regardless, on the '77 the Black/Brown wire sends 12v directly to the coil positive terminal from the ignition switch. You should have power with key in the start position. I said this earlier. If no power during start then go directly to the ignition switch and see what's up.

[1lo620]

On 6/28/2021 at 7:52 AM, datzenmike said:

Test light is fine for now. You said no power to the coil and that comes directly from the ignition switch. From my questions we know that power at least gets to the switch so now test Black/White and Black/Red wire on the switch for 12v power in the on and start positions. If not there, the switch is bad.

 

It is a slow process but it moves ever closer to the problem. Process of elimination.

 

Unplugging and plugging back in, may seat the connection better.

 

[1lo620]

I will try to get to checking all this stuff later today. It is tough for me during the week. I work long hours..but I need to get this truck running soon. So I will try to get to it. Thanks..let you all know what I fine. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

the test light was fine

put key to ON

put test light to positive side of  ballast reisitor  should light up then go to other side ballast light will be less brite then go to + side coil and should be about the same. as the wire from the ballast should make its way over to the + side coil. if NO light or voltage(using a volt meter) then there is a open. most time the ballast can open up or a wire fell of the downward side of the ballast resisitor

[1lo620]

Ok so here we go. I have power to the white wire going into ignition switch. Without the key on. When I turn on turn on the key the black/ white wire gets power. The black and red wire is dim when I turn key on but gets bright when cranked and the back/yellow is hot when I crank it over. 

[1lo620]

[1lo620]

This wire harness is out of a 76 xcab if I remember correctly. I had it in my 74 chop top. Then it went into this. I drove the 74 for close to 8 years without to many electronic issues. Just some worn out connection. Hainz added a petronix to it 6 years ago. Been running great since. Then this fiasco. 

[datzenmike]

Ignition switch positions....

 

OFF................. only the WHITE wire has 12v. This is the power source.

ON or RUN..... WHITE, BLUE, BLACK/WHITE has 12v. Blue to cigar lighter, Black/White to ballast

START............. WHITE, BLACK/WHITE, BLACK/RED, BLACK/YELLOW HAS 12V. Black/red to coil +, Black/Yellow to starter solenoid.

 

 

 

3 hours ago, 1lo620 said:

Ok so here we go. I have power to the white wire going into ignition switch. Without the key on. When I turn on turn on the key the black/ white wire gets power. The black and red wire is dim when I turn key on but gets bright when cranked and the back/yellow is hot when I crank it over. 

 

 The Black/White has power in the ON position then there should be power at the other end where it connects to the ballast

The Black/Red has power in the START position and there should be power at the other end where it connects to the coil +.

 

You said earlier there was no power at the coil.

 

On 6/27/2021 at 11:13 AM, 1lo620 said:

I replaced the voltage regulator. I have lights. No power from coil. I turned key on and checked with a testing lights on the positive side. No power. Have charge light when I turn key on. Horn never worked. 

 

These statements don't add up. One has to be wrong. Did you test in the START position? Should also be 12v at coil +

[banzai510(hainz)]

ezeist would have just checked to see power at the coil with key ON.  Yes or NO then go backwards up to the harness if no power

 

then check if NO power with key in START.

[banzai510(hainz)]

16 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

the test light was fine

put key to ON

put test light to positive side of  ballast reisitor  should light up then go to other side ballast light will be less brite then go to + side coil and should be about the same. as the wire from the ballast should make its way over to the + side coil. if NO light or voltage(using a volt meter) then there is a open. most time the ballast can open up or a wire fell of the downward side of the ballast resisitor

 

[1lo620]

Well may be I am checking the coil wrong. I will try again after work. I am sorry I am just not real good at electronic aspects of the truck. I appreciate all the help amd advice. And for sure need it. So I will try again later. And let you know how it goes. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

key to ON  get volt meter set to 20 volt scale or Auto will work

put black lead on chassis or neg side of battery

put red lead on + side coil.  you should get like 6-9 volts.  the input of the Ballast resisitor you should get 12volts  Output of ballast is the same as the + side coil as it should be the same 6-9 volts.

If you get 6-9 volts then the ON wire set up is correct.

[1lo620]

Ok I think I have my wires crossed. But I do have power to the coil when key is on. But coil and ballast is getting hot. Even when keys is off. Which makes me think I got wires crossed. And to top it off I was cleaning ballast a s it stripped. So I got sure need a new one of those. Should I just get a new coil also. The one I have is many many years old. So here is my rat nest. 

[datzenmike]

Buy a coil only if this one is bad. We don't know that yet. It may be ok but the new one bad and we would assume being new it's ok. An original coil is better quality.

 

Turn ignition off and check coil + for power. No power means the coil can't possibly be getting hot. It gets hot with the key on because the points in the distributor are closed that's all. Take the cap off and turn the engine over with the starter... make sure the points open and close.

 

Some one's messed the wiring. Was running, so is wired to run.  

 

[1lo620]

I have a Petronix ignition set up installed by Hainz several years back. Amd yes it was running well until the battery and voltage regulator went to crap. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Is coil hot to the touch?

 

why you say wires crossed when been running for eight years.

 

If REALLY getting hot when its OFF then you would see power on one of the wires. Did you see 12volts soem where with Key OFF?

 

If you have power to the coil and the Hot Start wire works  then recheck the coil wire comming out of the coil and place near ground and try to start to see if spark . If not I would think its the Petrronix blow up.

 

But the ballast being really really HOT means something. Key left ON too long maybe

Edited July 2, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)