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74 260z distributor on wrong ??


shawninvancouver

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https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMkzlboNntVMEQRmltw_tOZ7e_C8CPwVlOH5Z_acIlRqFqCg9-u-iuG29XpwlQFKg?key=ZTBvYkRwLTQzZUJnTjU0M0lKeHVscGZlcHZYZkpB

 

Dude your over reading this that is close enough on the spindal that you posted. If you put the rotor back on and the rotor will point to number 1 plug wire but since the plug wires are off Im just guessing.  then look at the timing plate and should be close to the middle of the timing plate slot to move the dist back redard or forth adv. and be right on the plug wire spot on the dist cap

 

Turn the key to ON and you should have power to one side of the ballast resisitor.This comes the fusable link at the starter wire up goes to the fuse box then to the key switch If not look at the ignition fuse, clean or reseat it. till you have power to the + side of the ballast resitor.  On those Z cars they have 3 connections and Im not familiar with how it works. Datzenmike will knows this. I dont

 

I assume you get a ignition light before key goes to START.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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ok  - got ya..... i will do all that...  do you have any clue that if i get power to the + side of the ballast with power on car - does  that mean its going through the rusted out electronic unit.. or i will have no clue if that electronic unit is working?? if all things get power but i cant get a spark i will assume the electronic unit is fried.. and like i say im getting  280zx dizzy any ways - to bypasss all that junk..

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5 minutes ago, shawninvancouver said:

ok  - got ya..... i will do all that...  do you have any clue that if i get power to the + side of the ballast with power on car - does  that mean its going through the rusted out electronic unit.. or i will have no clue if that electronic unit is working?? if all things get power but i cant get a spark i will assume the electronic unit is fried.. and like i say im getting  280zx dizzy any ways - to bypasss all that junk..

 

Do you have spark??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

 

 

For $10 you can install an HEI module from a GM product. Way cheaper. But getting ahead of ourselves.

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How a coil works is power is on the coil. then the points or the Electronic ignition disconnectes the power for the coil. when it it disconnects the magnaectic field collapses on to the 2ndar windings and goes thru the center of the coil thru the dist then to the rotor to the correct clyinder.

Its kinda oppisite of what you think. if coil is always grounded it will alwasy have power on it and do noting till you take the power away then the coil will fire off thru the center.

 

On point cars one just puts the key to on. take the orginal wire off the coil. put a long witre on the minuis side and take it and put to ground then take it off the center coil wire will fire off if its near ground.  On the newer EI modules I have never dont this but it should work

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mike, i assume i have no spark, as i have tested by holding the wire from middle of coil to metal of car.. no spark.. that pretty much told me no spark - i also tried hooking it up and starting car..  no starting..  but this rusted out unit may be the cause - and im just wasting my time  trying to get a spark with a rusty elec. unit.

as in photos here...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/F4QCqDvtsH6wHHkQ8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SrMvQwyaS6Q6n1FZ6

 

i may get one of these...  will this work? although its at sparkplug .. not sure if this can be used at coil  - maybe if i ground it.

 

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/oemtools-in-line-ignition-spark-tester-0250037p.html#srp

 

i was using one of these in coil end and grounded to see if it would light up.. would that work??

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/innova-3410-test-light-circuit-tester-0251061p.html?rrec=true#spc

 

 

Edited by shawninvancouver
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https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/oemtools-in-line-ignition-spark-tester-0250037p.html#srp

This will flash if ignition is working. 12,000- 20,000volts. It plugs between the spark plug and the plug wire.

 

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/innova-3410-test-light-circuit-tester-0251061p.html?rrec=true#spc

This tests for 12v not coil voltage.

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Working now.

 

 

 

1/  Black/White to other end of ballast and to the transistor box. Should show 12v in On and START position. FIND THIS WIRE. IF 12V THEN  2/ SHOULD ALSO HAVE POWER

 

2/  The White/Black stripe wire on the ballast resistor should connect to the coil + terminal. Should show power in ON and START

 

3/   Black/Blue to center of the ballast. Should show 12v in the START position only. 

 

4/   There should be a Blue wire on the - terminal of the coil. This wire goes to the transistor box

 

 

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You should be able to read something on all 3 if you have power on any one of them. Take it off and see if you can see any breaks in the wire. Are the terminals clean and snug where the wires attach???

 

 

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the ballast resisitor is pretty much a short if you ohm it out with a OHm meter. one end of the ballast to the other end

 

Or if you have power to one end if it it will be battery voltage of 12volts using the volt scale of the meter  and other end will be like 6 -9 volts or soemthing like that. or if you measured at the + side coil should be like 6 volts. as it asts like a voltage divider.

21 hours ago, shawninvancouver said:

i did see spark when key was being turned off..  but there is power going into the ballast resistor..

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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right bonzai... so, if i put 12 volts on one end i should have power to some degree on all 3 terminals which i dont.. possibly a break in it somewhere..  what would happen if i put the 12v on one end and the white/black ( to + on coil )  and black blue on middle terminal..  would that be ok to test the spark>?? or would it be way to much voltage not running from one end to the other on the ballast resistor??

cailfin.jpg

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you should see like 6-9 volts  on the right right of the ballst is the left side sees 12volts   with key ON.

 

Lets not make this HARD.  disconnectthe 3 wires and since you have a photo you know where they go.

 

get a Made in China mutilmeter, put on ohms scale. put the red and black wire together  the meter should read close to zero  as a short.   now put the red on the left side and the black on the other side of th abllast resisitor. if the reisitor is good it will read close to zero or say up to 2 maybe 3 ohms max depending on what scale your using but most likely read Zero or short.   if it dont read anything ,redas open then pull the ballast over and then loook on the back side and maybe the wire is burnt.

 

this is the tranisistor box it says right on it.

 

I kinda been reapeting myself here before you ask the same question everything has been said that you need to know

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Yes, that simple.

 

What's the resistance of that after market coil??? With the matchbox, to gain the higher voltage output you need 0.75-1.0 ohm matchbox coil.

 

If 1.3 ohm then it's a points coil and you need the ballast or it will over heat. Then all you loose are the points.

 

Like it says, blue wire is for the tach.

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