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Weber 32/36 throttle linkage sticking - maybe the fast idle linkage?


matrophy

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My new Weber 32/36 among other issues such as a mangled float out of the box and possibly a bent throttle shaft which has been replaced, is having a problem where the throttle doesn't close all the way. I have spent a lot of time loosening and tightening the nut on the shaft and nothing seems to help. It seems to be sticking at the primary control level against the body. I have checked that I have the correct order of parts installed according to the numerous DGEV diagrams online. I attached a photo here of my linkage to see if I maybe am missing a piece.

 

Pushing down on the fast idle control rod closes the throttle back to where it is supposed to be. I noticed that the linkage of the fast idle mechanism seems awfully sloppy and maybe that being loose is what is preventing the throttle from closing. There is a screw that holds the fast idle lever, etc together but it is blocked by the body of the carb so I guess I have to remove the choke to get to it (if it should be tighter than it is)?  Here's a video of the slop.

 

I probably won't be nominated for an Oscar for this video - it's probably my second ever.

 

 

IMG-0557.JPG

Edited by matrophy
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I was having problems setting the idle and getting horrible gas mileage. I re-read the instructions. One part I kinda blew by, wanting to make it run. The throttle cable return seemed to have enough spring in it for things to work. But as I drove it, fooled around, trying to get it to idle right, I realized that the throttle arm wasn't completely shut. My Install kit came with a spring and little bracket with two holes in it. I had to take the supplied spring apart, making it shorter, so the arm is pulled positivly shut! Now it is easy to adjust idle, and rpms don't creep or fall. Better gas mileage, but still shitty. Step on the pedal once for cold start, first crank... just stab the starter once, and it fires and idles warm... no throttle. My engine is timed right, so I seems like the next or last thing to try is re-jet. It does haul ass when you open it up...

 

Another issue that I'm not that happy about is the four nuts that hold the carb to the intake and the adapter plate studs,

seem to loosen and cause air leaks. I haven't used Loctite yet, I wanted to see it I could ever make them tight enough to stay put. I'm still experimenting before I glop some shit on there and regret it making a mess. I still have the patience to take the two stubby wrenches and check them once in a while.

Edited by Figbuck
sativa x indica
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2 hours ago, Figbuck said:

I was having problems setting the idle and getting horrible gas mileage. I re-read the instructions. One part I kinda blew by, wanting to make it run. The throttle cable return seemed to have enough spring in it for things to work. But as I drove it, fooled around, trying to get it to idle right, I realized that the throttle arm wasn't completely shut. My Install kit came with a spring and little bracket with two holes in it. I had to take the supplied spring apart, making it shorter, so the arm is pulled positivly shut! Now it is easy to adjust idle, and rpms don't creep or fall. Better gas mileage, but still shitty. Step on the pedal once for cold start, first crank... just stab the starter once, and it fires and idles warm... no throttle. My engine is timed right, so I seems like the next or last thing to try is re-jet. It does haul ass when you open it up...

 

Another issue that I'm not that happy about is the four nuts that hold the carb to the intake and the adapter plate studs,

seem to loosen and cause air leaks. I haven't used Loctite yet, I wanted to see it I could ever make them tight enough to stay put. I'm still experimenting before I glop some shit on there and regret it making a mess. I still have the patience to take the two stubby wrenches and check them once in a while.

I feel pretty good about the way I have my return spring set up. It is super stiff.  I wonder if you could jiggle your fast idle linkage and see if it is as loose as mine. I have no frame of reference right now. I also pretty sure that my adaptor plate is leaking now so off comes the carb again

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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Supper stiff is also BAD

How so? If so, I'm not sure how to fix it. My kit didn't come with a spring and the only springs I could find were in a Dorman kit of 6. The one that fit is pretty stiff compared to what I had on the stock carb but I didn't think a stiff spring wouldn't work.

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

it might wear a out the plate if too strong a spring. plus hard on the foot after awhile.

 

key is make sure the cable is loose also and no sharp bends , gradual!!!

Roger. I'll see about a less tight spring. It IS a little hard on the old ankle

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I looked at your video again, looked at my linkage. Mine has a very small jiggle to it, but not like yours. that sucks. That ain't even right! haha

 

I was looking at how the plate that the throttle cable and return spring are attached too. I forget, can that plate be clocked differently on the throttle shaft? Pop the nut off and re-seat it on a different detent?

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most time the stock trottle assemble for the the orginal Hitachi will fit the Weber DGV.

 

On my 521  I used the org Hitachi cable pull assembly. plus my pull wire was from the other side and flip upright.   I didnt know the pull cable come from the other side(from the valve cover side???) on a 720 if that what you have.

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Thanks for all your help. The screw holding the choke linkage together was bottomed out so I guess it's gonna stay as loose as it is. My kit didn't come with a return spring so I used one that was too long and had it going horizontally vs up and down. I used my old Hitachi spring and it pulls up to close the throttle all the way. The first rule of shade-tree mechanic-ing which I often forget is to always go back and check what you just did. That applies here.

 

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