Oil leak. Help!

[A guy named Rick]

So, I've done the valve cover gasket and the half circle plug in the back doesn't seem to be leaking, yet I still have an oil leak from the back of the motor making its way down to the bottom of the bellhousing. I really don't think it to be possible to come from between the head and block, especially since it's a new head gasket and torqued properly. I can't really see well between the head and the firewall, but feeling around back there it doesn't feel too wet between the valve cover and where the head/block meet. Datzenmike, i know you said to do the half circle plugs (called camshaft plugs maybe?) And put a little RTV on it, I'll try that, but here a couple pics. It all else fails I might add some dye and use a blacklight if I have to lol.

[datzenmike]

Rinse all the oil off, including the valve cover with carb cleaner and let dry. May take a couple of applications till clean and dry looking. After driving inspect regularly.

 

Is the oil dip stick sealed at the top?

 

Is the spark plug snug?

 

Is the block vent tube snug in the block? I see the hold down bolt is missing on that strap.

 

Is the valve cover hose connected to  the stock air filter housing?

[A guy named Rick]

Omg i really have no idea why I posted it here instead of the 720 area. Oh well.

 

So, not leaking from dipstick, valve cover hose on stock air cleaner, block vent tube is snug. Spark plug snug (its leaking down the back of the motor, not from the plug area)

 

Would it be possible to be leaking between the head and block? Compression is good. Gasket is new. I'll try cleaning it off this week and see what's up. It leaked enough to make a spot on the ground too.

[datzenmike]

There is an oil drain back hole in the rear center of the head and block but for it to be loose enough to leak (and it isn't under any pressure) then the coolant would be spraying out. It'll be the valve cover gasket. Or most likely the valve cover is distorted by over tightening the bolts. 

[A guy named Rick]

i'll check it out this week

Edited May 20, 2021 by A guy named Rick

[A guy named Rick]

So, cleaned it as best I could (really tight fit between head and firewall), tightened the screws on the valve cover,drove it around the block a bit and let it idle. Seems like the only spot where some oil leaked was the rear corner screw. Question: it goes screw, rubber grommet, metal-washer-cup thing, then valve cover (obviously), right? Thought who knows, maybe the rubber grommet sits on the valve cover. You can see it in my pic. 

[A guy named Rick]

Also, I wonder if I'm a little low on gear oil now. My input shaft bearing is making noise. I hear a slight bearing noise when clutch is released sitting at idle. Press the pedal and it goes away. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if I start daily driving the truck and the transmission blows up. I tried having a mechanic I knew several years ago rebuild it and I think he didn't want to be bothered and was like "if it's not broke, why fix it" uh, well let's see, tail bearing noise, kinda stiff changing gears, shifter pretty loose side to side in neutral, and because I don't know the history of this truck. Judging by it was bought at an auction and flipped (lying sack of shit that sold it to me).

[datzenmike]

 The fill bung is about half way up the side, usually the driver's side. Some are square so a pipe wrench and a short length of pipe over the handle for leverage. Some are a square indent and a 1/2" ratchet will fit into it. Stick your little finger tip in and if it touches oil, it's full. If adding oil, when you can't fit any more in it's full. Do not force more in and over fill.

[A guy named Rick]

Oh yeah I've done the fluid before. I've had the transmission out twice, once when I did the clutch and then a few months later when half the clip holding the throw out bearing to the fork came loose and wouldn't really disengage the clutch. Had to start it in gear at the light and bang shift. 

 

About the valve cover screws, they're correct, right?

[datzenmike]

If you say you wonder then just check it.

 

Valve cover look ok. Did you RTV the half moon yet?

[A guy named Rick]

No, it seemed to not be leaking from there either. Mainly seemed wet with oil at the rear drivers side screw

Edited May 23, 2021 by A guy named Rick

[MikeRL411]

13 hours ago, A guy named Rick said:

No, it seemed to not be leaking from there either. Mainly seemed wet with oil at the rear drivers side screw

 

Far out chance that it might be as simple as an old problem I found.  The valve cover corner was slightly sitting on the L shaped bracket used when lifting the engine.  Not much contacy but enough to generate a persistent slow drip.  Rotating the bracket past its nominal position cured the mystery drip puddle on the floor and cleaned up the greasy engine block.

[A guy named Rick]

I actually don't have that bracket on the engine right now lol. I'm going to check it out more tomorrow and see what's up

[A guy named Rick]

Oil leak seems ok since tightening the rear screws.

 

Soooo..... tonight I tried adjusting the valves, which I had done before. So, once I got the valve cover off I noticed when checking the valve lash that it seemed too tight. I loosened them, I had thought the engine might have cooled enough by the time I got to checking them that I decided to set them all at .010. Well, she didn't seem to like that too well. Started her up and was ticking like a sewing machine. Well, shit. Now I'm going to be setting it cold tomorrow morning. Maybe set them .008 cold? 

 

I made sure the valves were closed when adjusting them too. And the engine was relatively quiet before adjusting them, but I wanted to double check everything before trying to smog it tomorrow. Seems that might not be happening now. What should I do next? 😬🤔

[datzenmike]

Z24 is 0.012" hot on intake and exhaust. Try setting them 0.010" cold, then warm the engine and confirm they opened up to 0.012"

[A guy named Rick]

Trying to work on it some more right now. Quick question. Rear passenger side corner of head says V Y W6. Got a pic of it.

Just weird because I noticed the valve cover doesn't fully cover that area too. Is this normal? Here's a pic of it on. It's a 10W head. 

 

[datzenmike]

Probably stamped by who ever rebuilt it or worked on it in the past.