Kevinmp Posted June 5, 2021 Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 How do I tell if it’s bad?? ohmmeter? I tested it and it’s 2.1 when meters set to 200 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 5, 2021 Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 There is a post here on Ratsun about replacing the regulator with a zener? diode power supply. I think he sells them really cheap. 2 Quote Link to comment
Kevinmp Posted June 6, 2021 Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 Well I took it out cleaned it up that voltage regulator put it all back together and it worked but for about 30 seconds and then it went back out so I don’t know what the hell is wrong with it I’ll try this Zener thing you’re talking about.. You say it’s posted on here somewhere.. I can’t find it, do you have a link by chance ?? I’ll keep looking 1 Quote Link to comment
Kevinmp Posted June 6, 2021 Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 DatzenMike, If you could give me a post number or a phone number to get a hold this guy an email address whatever I’d really appreciate it 1 Quote Link to comment
Kevinmp Posted June 6, 2021 Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 DatzenMike, If you could give me a post number or a phone number to get a hold this guy an email address whatever I’d really appreciate it 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 6, 2021 Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 (edited) None of the links or pictures work. Kind of useless. last sign in was march 10. Maybe PM him. Edited June 6, 2021 by Charlie69 Quote Link to comment
Kevinmp Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 verY useless. You can’t just buy one somewhere?? I saw another reply that said you can buy one already built professionally and ready to install, just plug n play.. where do I buy it?? Price is no object.. I just need this thing (dash cluster)to work properly. Any ideas??? 2 Quote Link to comment
Kevinmp Posted June 8, 2021 Report Share Posted June 8, 2021 Again, is the compression of 165-167 good, ok, low, or bad for these L16 motors?? It’s got 129,000 original, but 28,000 is tow miles behind a motor home for several years. I told the guy( my uncle ) to unplug the speedo on the tow trips, but he didn’t listen. Anyway, I was just curious if these numbers are good or not on compression of cylinders 1-4.???? 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 8, 2021 Report Share Posted June 8, 2021 Good for that many miles. Was the driveshaft removed for the towing? I think 30 miles is the safe limit. The transmission doesn't self lubricate very well if towed. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 8, 2021 Report Share Posted June 8, 2021 140 would be still good!!!!!!!!!! Move on from the compression issue I would not unhook the speedo either , why cause its a Datsun was a disposable vehicle back in the day ohm out the circut where the volt reg is. Its go to be a circut board crack. 2 Quote Link to comment
Kevinmp Posted June 16, 2021 Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 I figured 165-167 on all 4 cylinders was pretty good. Just wanted some affirmation from someone other then me. I’ve tried looking up , and got nowhere, but what’s the setting for the timing on this 521? The only thing I saw was here, I believe it said 10* BTDC.. true? As far as the circuit board on the cluster gauges, I’ll check that. If that’s the case, where do I find another one? Or is it fixable? Solder?? No, it wasn’t removed (transaxle) during towing. The guy was an idiot. He did as little as possible to get by, and it shows. She runs real good now. We’ve replaced everything you can think of on the engine, and then some. 2 Quote Link to comment
Kevinmp Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 No cracks in the circuit board.. I bought a 6 pack of buck step down converters ( 12v - 9 v) off Amazon for $9... I’m going to try one of these and see what happens.. does anybody know where the main ground is off of the main harness? Is it the one attached to the voltage regulator on the inside r front fender of the truck?? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 The #2 plug on the 12 wire plug in the back of the gauge cluster is the ground for the gauges. Black wires are ground. Anything metal, dash or body, is grounded. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kevinmp Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 I’m aware of the plug ground in the back of the cluster. I’m not aware of the ground wire coming in to the plug for the cluster. I thought there was a “main” ground wire for the harness of the truck. After following the wire harness back from the cluster, it appears the only grounding of the black wire that I found was on the inside Rt front fender, and that was grounded to the fender wall where the voltage regulator is screwed into the fender, and a another ground ran from there to the battery ground cable. I was just curious if there is a broken ground somewhere that’s causing the fuel and temp gauges to both work and quit working at the same time? Are there several grounding spots throughout the truck?, or are these 2 that I found pretty much it?? I tried the buck converter, same result. No change, I’m thinking a broken/bad connection in the ground wire. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kevinmp Posted June 29, 2021 Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 Got the gauges working.. I didn’t realize that I had fixed 3 other problems when I fixed the voltage drop regulator. The back up lights, turn signals and hazard lights all work now as well as all gauges!! Yeah!!! Now, does anybody know where I can find front disc brake set up for this 521??? I’d like to be able to stop just a little quicker then we have been. I was going to replace what’s on their with all new components, but the front should be disc brakes. Is there a certain year Nissan that’s fits right on the ‘71 521? Or is there a brand new set up made to fit ?? Any ideas would be appreciated. Oh, by the way, the gauge cluster was fixed by taking the voltage drop regulator apart, and I found the little wire that wraps that brass/copper mechanism was broken. I re-soldered it, and wa-la, everything works again 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 29, 2021 Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 Mike Klotz for front disc brakes. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/320520521620-disc-brake-kit.html Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 29, 2021 Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Kevinmp said: Got the gauges working.. I didn’t realize that I had fixed 3 other problems when I fixed the voltage drop regulator. The back up lights, turn signals and hazard lights all work now as well as all gauges!! Yeah!!! Now, does anybody know where I can find front disc brake set up for this 521??? I’d like to be able to stop just a little quicker then we have been. I was going to replace what’s on their with all new components, but the front should be disc brakes. Is there a certain year Nissan that’s fits right on the ‘71 521? Or is there a brand new set up made to fit ?? Any ideas would be appreciated. Oh, by the way, the gauge cluster was fixed by taking the voltage drop regulator apart, and I found the little wire that wraps that brass/copper mechanism was broken. I re-soldered it, and wa-la, everything works again Sounds like you managed to fix something else, because the gauge voltage regulator doesn't affect anything besides the water temp & fuel gauges. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 29, 2021 Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 (edited) While I'll agree with Charlie, mikekotz does make a quality setup I think you need new hubs too.... You can also check out silvermine https://www.silverminemotors.com/featured/240z-260z-280z-rear-wilwood-brake-upgrade-kit-large-calipers Looks like they use the wilwood calipers ..... There was a guy beebani's customs but I dont see his stuff on Ebay anymore, he sold a bracket that used stock nissan parts.... You could get those parts and make your own brackets.... Edited June 29, 2021 by Crashtd420 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 29, 2021 Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 1 hour ago, thisismatt said: because the gauge voltage regulator doesn't affect anything besides the water temp & fuel gauges. Exactly. I think just re mating the connector might have fixed te ther issues. but the volt reg wire was broke but one would have caught that with a meter 1 Quote Link to comment
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