Inherited grandpas ‘71 Datsun 521 p/u

[datzenmike]

 HotSpark site says works with stock coil. If this is so it won't give you a hotter spark only get rid of the points. This is true of Pertronix units also. Running a lower impedance coil for higher voltage output will just burn them out.

 

The Pertronix or the HotSpark won't fix an engine it only gets rid of the points. If your engine is running properly it would run just as well with points.

 

As Charlie says the only real EI distributor is the one made for '78 and up L series engines. They do handle the increased current loads drawn through the lower impudence EI coil, and do produce a hotter high voltage spark.

[banzai510(hainz)]

time to take photos.

 

be honest I think you induced the proplem. you swapped tto many stuff and most times one screws it up.

 

Hot spark or Pertronix is just a points conversion not a true EI distributor and use the stock coil with the ballast.  anything elese will make it run worse if not a matched set.  Blue Bosche coil?????

 

what is this distributor you talk about? photos Hot spark or what.   you watc my vid like 60-70% way thru it who to line up a distributor at TDC? if yes then not much to go wrong

Edited May 7, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[Charlie69]

Do not buy a Remanufactured Matchbox from Rock Auto as they are shit.  I bought 2 just to be sure the distributors were shit.  Half ass cleaned, shitty rattle can paint over grease, All factory electronics removed (the good stuff), replaced with the cheapest Chinese parts available.  The distributorrebuild service through Rock Auto are the same people turning out the shitty rebuilt matchbox distributors Rock Auto sells.  That would be A1 Cardone/Cardone.

 

I have not tried the rebuild service from Rock Auto's Autoline.

 

If I want a Distributor done I will get a hold of distributorguy here on Ratsun and send my distributor to him.

distributorguy profile

Edited May 7, 2021 by Charlie69

[banzai510(hainz)]

Looks like the Blue Bosch is a 3.4 ohm coil.

 

however if you use the stock coil and the ballast it will = the 3.o ohms needed to run points or a HOTSpark or Pertronix conversion.

However during START there is a bypass wire the bypasses the ballst thus giving you more current during START.. if you use the 3.4 ohm coil it will always be 3.4 ohms and during the START you battery is really only putting out like under 10volts as the STARTer is sucking up all the current. So you will actually start better using the stock set up

 

However

IF you have a true Nissan distributor  then youll need or use a more modern .7 ohm electronic spec coil and since it low ohms and made to run on 12/14volts it should be able to start at a lower batt voltage during the START position

Edited May 9, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[gene knight]

my matchbox went out on my L18 and i am using a HEI module now and wired it up with no issues

[Kevinmp]

Ok, I’m going back to the stock distributor that wax I this 521 when my son got it. So, after reading thru all of your replies(thank you), I agree, the problem may have been self induced. One of your replies says the relay on the front drivers side fender is for the 2nd set of points in the distributor, if and when being used..???? Do they not work all the time? what’s the second set of points purpose??  I’ve replaced just about everything. Even bought a new hot spark EI distributor from hot spark. It starts right up, runs a lil rough, but I can’t bolt the distributor undue to the wrong plate sent with it. I tried the original plate on the new EI distributor, but the bolt holes don’t match up. When I do fire the truck up ( while holding the distributor in place) it runs pretty damn good , but I have to turn the distributor damn near 3/4 of the way ccw from where it was before originally. Doesn’t seem right, but what do I know. Anybody have any ideas? Or just put it all back to original?? Any help would be gratefully appreciated.. thanks for reading

[banzai510(hainz)]

On 5/22/2021 at 3:46 PM, Kevinmp said:

When I do fire the truck up ( while holding the distributor in place) it runs pretty damn good

Get a mini c clamp and hold it down and see if it runs good thru the whole rpm range

If it good then find a way to make a new timming plate hold down that you can adjust to get your 0-20 deg BTDC fire . and middle of the timming adjust ment.

Bam your done. I would not go back to points if you dont have too.

 

The plate sent with the Hotspark is kinda of a Gereic plate I assume. As there were a few timing plates that were different the L16 one then the later L18/20 pints one. They dont work whith each other so I dont know what people do with these Hotsparks. Some say they bolt in and work but if you have to turn it 3/4 of a way to lock it down then of coarse its not going to run right as your buting it OUT of time.

Get a C clamp t hold it down steady and see how it runs. If good them mae  it work with a now plate or mod the orginal plate. Flip it upside down and see if that helps. Maybe a machine shop can make a timing plate for you.

I was hoping soemone would make a How To on these Hotsparks as its a cheap options as alot of distributors are wearing out. But no one has done it yet. I was thinking of buying one and do that.  Maybe yu need the L20 distributor mount Not the L16 one as the tang is shorter and more sticking out at 90deg than a L20 lower angle and also the hole is farther out from center

 

The 2nd set of points was a emission deal which was done back in the 70s to help burn off excess gas ect...... it worked with a 3rd gear switch.

 

i HAVE TO RECHECK AGAIN ON THIS but

I would have kept the orginal coil and ballst and it might start EZr cause a lower ohm coil 1.5 being bypassed will make a bigger spark then when goes back to ON its the same as going thru the ballast and stock coil to get the 3.4 ohms.   But with the 3.4 ohm coil and even no ballast on START your still have 3.4 ohms total resisitance during start which will make it harder to get going in the winter or coil motor. Be LESS spark as the battery will lower the voltage as all current goes to the starter motor

 

drawing is of a 510 wire but the 521 the splice will be right at the connetor on the +side coil

 

 

this is all a simple fix

Edited May 24, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[420n620]

On 5/1/2021 at 5:30 PM, datzenmike said:

Take your time.....

 

On 5/4/2021 at 3:27 PM, Charlie69 said:

Pictures please.

 

[Kevinmp]

Does anybody know what the purpose of the fuel vapor separator on the drivers side , in the bed of the 521 p/u, under the fender well?? It says in the service manual that 1 lineis supposed  to hook up to the crankcase ventilation , there’s a junction type set up on the drivers side inner fender wall (under the hood) , one fitting has a hose going to the intake manifold, and another fitting with nothing on it. I saw there was a fitting on the intake manifold with nothing on it, so I hooked the 2 together. Now it runs crappy, and when it does run, it’s as if someone turns the gas off completely, and back on, then off.. I unhooked all of that, but it continues to do the same, as if it’s not getting gas. Did I suck some of whatever’s in that vapor/ fuel separator intoned crankcase ventilation hose?? It ran great until I did that, ever since it won’t stay running. The manual shows the separator/ventilator, but doesn’t explain what it does, or if it can make-function or if someone stupid like me hooks it up to something, what will happen?? It doesn’t say anything, any advice ?? Help

[Kevinmp]

On 5/24/2021 at 6:41 AM, banzai510(hainz) said:

Get a mini c clamp and hold it down and see if it runs good thru the whole rpm range

If it good then find a way to make a new timming plate hold down that you can adjust to get your 0-20 deg BTDC fire . and middle of the timming adjust ment.

Bam your done. I would not go back to points if you dont have too.

 

The plate sent with the Hotspark is kinda of a Gereic plate I assume. As there were a few timing plates that were different the L16 one then the later L18/20 pints one. They dont work whith each other so I dont know what people do with these Hotsparks. Some say they bolt in and work but if you have to turn it 3/4 of a way to lock it down then of coarse its not going to run right as your buting it OUT of time.

Get a C clamp t hold it down steady and see how it runs. If good them mae  it work with a now plate or mod the orginal plate. Flip it upside down and see if that helps. Maybe a machine shop can make a timing plate for you.

I was hoping soemone would make a How To on these Hotsparks as its a cheap options as alot of distributors are wearing out. But no one has done it yet. I was thinking of buying one and do that.  Maybe yu need the L20 distributor mount Not the L16 one as the tang is shorter and more sticking out at 90deg than a L20 lower angle and also the hole is farther out from center

 

The 2nd set of points was a emission deal which was done back in the 70s to help burn off excess gas ect...... it worked with a 3rd gear switch.

 

i HAVE TO RECHECK AGAIN ON THIS but

I would have kept the orginal coil and ballst and it might start EZr cause a lower ohm coil 1.5 being bypassed will make a bigger spark then when goes back to ON its the same as going thru the ballast and stock coil to get the 3.4 ohms.   But with the 3.4 ohm coil and even no ballast on START your still have 3.4 ohms total resisitance during start which will make it harder to get going in the winter or coil motor. Be LESS spark as the battery will lower the voltage as all current goes to the starter motor

 

drawing is of a 510 wire but the 521 the splice will be right at the connetor on the +side coil

 

 

this is all a simple fix

Thanks fir the idea.. definitely need to try it. I noticed when I did have it in, it started instantaneously. Like it never has before.  I was impressed, now I’ll try that hold down plate as you said, it’s bern over 30 days so I can’t return it now anyways.. thanks again for the isles and info, very grateful for your time

[thisismatt]

35 minutes ago, Kevinmp said:

Does anybody know what the purpose of the fuel vapor separator on the drivers side , in the bed of the 521 p/u, under the fender well?? It says in the service manual that 1 lineis supposed  to hook up to the crankcase ventilation , there’s a junction type set up on the drivers side inner fender wall (under the hood) , one fitting has a hose going to the intake manifold, and another fitting with nothing on it. I saw there was a fitting on the intake manifold with nothing on it, so I hooked the 2 together. Now it runs crappy, and when it does run, it’s as if someone turns the gas off completely, and back on, then off.. I unhooked all of that, but it continues to do the same, as if it’s not getting gas. Did I suck some of whatever’s in that vapor/ fuel separator intoned crankcase ventilation hose?? It ran great until I did that, ever since it won’t stay running. The manual shows the separator/ventilator, but doesn’t explain what it does, or if it can make-function or if someone stupid like me hooks it up to something, what will happen?? It doesn’t say anything, any advice ?? Help

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

work one thing at a time!!!!!!!!!!!!  dont look for a proplem that dont exist

 

that vent crap you really dont need it to run right.  I have the lower outlet to the crank case vent tube it it wount change what running

the TOP I have a Weber carb now and get rid of that hose

 

 

fix the distributor timing  FIRST!!!!!!!!!. I would put the ballast and stock coil back in myself

do the math  Start going thru 3.4 ohm coil (Bosch)

  going thru  Start thru 1.6 ohm coil = Hotter spark

 

switch goes back to ON  it goes thru ballast(1.6 ohms) and stock coil(1.6 ohms) = the same ohm value as your Bosch  3.2 3.4 close enough

Edited May 28, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[Kevinmp]

On 5/24/2021 at 6:41 AM, banzai510(hainz) said:

Get a mini c clamp and hold it down and see if it runs good thru the whole rpm range

If it good then find a way to make a new timming plate hold down that you can adjust to get your 0-20 deg BTDC fire . and middle of the timming adjust ment.

Bam your done. I would not go back to points if you dont have too.

 

The plate sent with the Hotspark is kinda of a Gereic plate I assume. As there were a few timing plates that were different the L16 one then the later L18/20 pints one. They dont work whith each other so I dont know what people do with these Hotsparks. Some say they bolt in and work but if you have to turn it 3/4 of a way to lock it down then of coarse its not going to run right as your buting it OUT of time.

Get a C clamp t hold it down steady and see how it runs. If good them mae  it work with a now plate or mod the orginal plate. Flip it upside down and see if that helps. Maybe a machine shop can make a timing plate for you.

I was hoping soemone would make a How To on these Hotsparks as its a cheap options as alot of distributors are wearing out. But no one has done it yet. I was thinking of buying one and do that.  Maybe yu need the L20 distributor mount Not the L16 one as the tang is shorter and more sticking out at 90deg than a L20 lower angle and also the hole is farther out from center

 

The 2nd set of points was a emission deal which was done back in the 70s to help burn off excess gas ect...... it worked with a 3rd gear switch.

 

i HAVE TO RECHECK AGAIN ON THIS but

I would have kept the orginal coil and ballst and it might start EZr cause a lower ohm coil 1.5 being bypassed will make a bigger spark then when goes back to ON its the same as going thru the ballast and stock coil to get the 3.4 ohms.   But with the 3.4 ohm coil and even no ballast on START your still have 3.4 ohms total resisitance during start which will make it harder to get going in the winter or coil motor. Be LESS spark as the battery will lower the voltage as all current goes to the starter motor

 

drawing is of a 510 wire but the 521 the splice will be right at the connetor on the +side coil

 

 

this is all a simple fix

Thanks fir the idea.. definitely need to try it. I noticed when I did have it in, it started instantaneously. Like it never has before.  I was impressed, now I’ll try that hold down plate as you said, it’s been over 30 days so I can’t return it now anyways.. thanks again for the ideas and info, very grateful for your time

[Kevinmp]

Thanks for the pic of The ventilator Spicket type thing.. I see how it works( or hooks up anyway) and that’s  how I have it hooked up now , except the top one that went to  the original carburetor/air cleaner it was just sitting there empty, so I hooked it up to what I thought was a vent line, it was a vacuum line off of the intake manifold.. I drove it for a few blocks and BAM, it started running terrible, and then shut down like someone shut the gas off.. every time I start it now, the only time it will start is by pushing the accelerator all the way to the floor, as soon as I let off , it dies. Like no gas at all.. so I took it back off, and left it just open( like before) but whatever I did, the damage is done. I was wondering if since I hooked it up to a vacuum line, instead of vent line, it sucked something into the line that’s causing a vapor lock???  took it back off now it does not run right at all I don’t know what the Hells going on but when I put that line over to the vacuum line on the intake I think it’s sucked  something up out of that bed vapor canister?? Maybe ?  I’m not sure what happened, but something is not right it, ran good before that ( still need to get it timed) when I put the points back in with the original dual point distributor..I put in  the original coil and it ran real good. Got it up to 80 mph with the new Webber carb on it. Easily... but now, I’m not sure what to do. A friend told me to remove the gas tank and clean it. He thinks the fuel pick up lines plugged?? Because it’s linked to the vapor canister.. I’m not sure what to do?? Any ideas??

[Charlie69]

On 5/2/2021 at 11:38 AM, Kevinpm said:

My son inherited his grandpas ‘71 521 p/u. After being towed behind a motor home for about 23,000 miles , it now has a lil’ over 109,000 mi. It needs some work, but in part real good shape. No rust, no major dents( no minor ones either) and electrical seems to be in good working order. After sitting for a year or so, won’t start. My son came to me to help out. I started with the basics, but really couldn’t get to get it to run smooth. Would start and die. My son had already bought and replaced the carburetor with a Weber 2 barrel. I started going thru it starting with cheapest parts first. So, now with a new voltage regulator, carb., battery, and electronic distributor (screw holding points was stripped out, couldn’t set one set of points correctly) it now starts and runs, but doesn’t run smooth. After reading your reply to my other topic sent in, I need to remove the ballast resistor, due to higher volts needed for electronic distributor? And the relay on drivers side not needed anymore? That was for second set of points? Makes sense. I’ll try it and see what happens. Thanks for the quick reply. 

Drain the tank pull the tank and either clean yourself or have a radiator shop clean the tank.  While tank is out check fuel lines for rust and dirt.  I spray my lines out with either carb or brake cleaner, spraying from the the engine compartment back.  After I have sprayed the lines with cleaner I take my compressor hose and blow the lines out good with compressed air blowing from the engine compartment back towards where the lines connect up to the tank.  If the lines do not clean up replace them.  Pull the little tank off and clean it as best as you can also.  Re-install the tanks and try again.

[thisismatt]

You hooked it up to a vacuum line? Was the vacuum line capped off before? If not, that doesn't really make sense either since an open line would have caused issues before that.

[Kevinmp]

Yes, it was capped off before.. I know, I created another problem. I should’ve just left it alone. I’ll clean the tank and fuel lines, from the engine compartment back. I’ll let you know how that goes. Thanks for the responses 

[banzai510(hainz)]

 

Im starting to go insane here.

On 5/28/2021 at 2:48 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

that vent crap you really dont need it to run right.  I have the lower outlet to the crank case vent tube it it wount change what running

the TOP I have a Weber carb now and get rid of that hose

I said this frday and you still did it anyway!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Take the output of the fuel line  and point in a safe direction and see if gas shoots out of the fuel pump.

 

If yes then the pump is good

 

then go to the fuel filter and cut it open and see if there is dirt in there. and get another new one.

If lots of dirt in there then the idle jet cfould be plugged and even the main jet if the fuel filter is filty and you ran it at 80 mph,

 

this is just a best guess , maybe the points went out of ajustment or soemthing.

 

Hve spark, have gas and compression it will fire

 

pull the center coil wire and place near ground and hit the key. these it spark?

  does gas shoult in the carb when you cyles the gas linkae from the accel poump on top of the car?  see gas shoot in??

Edited June 1, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[Kevinmp]

Ok.. I put the hot spark ei distributor back into the 521. It looks like I just need to find or make a new plate for the distributor I tried the one that they sent me and my old one off the old distributor from the door poinsettia neither one give me enough throw to make the distributor turn the barn up on the new one to run correctly so for now I have a clamp down like you said to do banzai510, and it runs great I did take the vapor separator in the fuel tank both out blew all the lines from the engine compartment back there was one vapor line plugged completely in the fuel line wasn’t the greatest but after blowing it out with carburetor cleaner and blowing with the air compressor it’s very clean put a new fuel filter and started right up first turn runs excellent thanks for all the help I really appreciate you guys on here also my gas gauge and temperature gage were not working I pulled the dash off ( instrument cluster) cleaned it up a little bit,  put it all back in and it worked for about 5 miles,  turned the truck off, started again and it hasn’t worked since.. Voltage regulator for the cluster you were talking about in One of these forums for help is the black round pin type attachment that goes to the back of the cluster,  is that correct? Is there a main ground wire that goes to that, that I should be checking out possibly?? While waiting for an answer I’m gonna pull that out again and clean it up real good put it back together and see what happens

[Kevinmp]

Can’t remember if that was you banzai 510 or datzenMike that said you might possibly look into making distributor plates for these ei distributors from hot Spark & Peetronix, because do not have the correct distributor plate for these things when they send them out.  At least not for the one I got and I’m not the only one that I’ve heard that from. Anyway I think it would be a good idea ( possibly profitable as well) if you took that idea to make them and go with it. You’d definitely be helping a few people out.. also, I think I told you guys before it was about 180° difference in positioning of the old distributor and this new one..that’s not true.. it’s about an inch of throw more on the ei distributor than it was on the double points distributor, which I don’t have enough room to continue the swing that I need on that plate to make it work,  so I’m gonna find a local machine shop to make me a plate that’ll work,  that should solve the problem... thanks for all the help you guys you have given me. This forum is awesome..I really appreciate it, next time I’ll listen a little closer to what you guys were saying and not jump around to other things that don’t need to be messed with, I know I self-induced a lot of this problem myself. I know  better now...well,  live and learn.. unfortunately it takes longer for some people than others to learn the right way..Again thanks for all the help let me know about the instrument cluster when you get a chance please

[Charlie69]

9 hours ago, Kevinmp said:

Can’t remember if that was you banzai 510 or datzenMike that said you might possibly look into making distributor plates for these ei distributors from hot Spark & Peetronix, because do not have the correct distributor plate for these things when they send them out.  At least not for the one I got and I’m not the only one that I’ve heard that from. Anyway I think it would be a good idea ( possibly profitable as well) if you took that idea to make them and go with it. You’d definitely be helping a few people out.. also, I think I told you guys before it was about 180° difference in positioning of the old distributor and this new one..that’s not true.. it’s about an inch of throw more on the ei distributor than it was on the double points distributor, which I don’t have enough room to continue the swing that I need on that plate to make it work,  so I’m gonna find a local machine shop to make me a plate that’ll work,  that should solve the problem... thanks for all the help you guys you have given me. This forum is awesome..I really appreciate it, next time I’ll listen a little closer to what you guys were saying and not jump around to other things that don’t need to be messed with, I know I self-induced a lot of this problem myself. I know  better now...well,  live and learn.. unfortunately it takes longer for some people than others to learn the right way..Again thanks for all the help let me know about the instrument cluster when you get a chance please

I am guessing that you are not aware that you can set this distributor in the spot that works with your plate.  Line up your timing pointer to 0^O at top dead center on #1 cylinder on compression stroke put your distributor in which ever tower on the distributor cap your rotor is pointing to is the tower for the #1 spark plug cable.  Wire the the other 3 towers 342 in a counter clockwise direction.

[banzai510(hainz)]

On the instrument cluster fuel and gas gauge

see if you can clean it up. the regulator is just a pc of long wire wraped up in there. Its nothing special. Mine goes out then come back all the time.

maybe reseat it . I for got if one side is screwed in or not or just pulles out.

If might come back if you hit it. I can get my hand up there and wack it soemtimes.

 

as for the timing plate on the dist. One guy said he just put his right on but think he had a L20 motor and those the hole spacing is different than the L16 dist mounts.  But you know how it works now and once you figure it out its simple. Its like timing of a clock. then use a timing light bam you got it.

 

can you modify to old plate or the new one to get it closer to what you need. Or flip them over? then slot them to get it on time???

Edited June 4, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[Kevinmp]

Fuel and Temp gauge: you say it’s just a piece of wire wrapped up in there? It’s NOT the round black slide on piece that has all the wires running to it??  As far as the distributor plate, Charlie69 says just turn the engine to TDC, turn the distributor so that the clamp works, and then put the cap on and wire ccw from #1 to 342 and it should work. I’ll try that, I just got today my new timing light so I can finally set this thing and just drive now.. hey, I did a compression check on all 4 cylinders, the lowest ( #1) being 165#, #’s 234 all 167#.. is that decent or low compression?? What is stock new compression on the L16??? 

[thisismatt]

That's the harness plug.

 

The guage regulator is the zinc rectangular box hanging off the back of the board with two(?) quick disconnect terminals and a screwed down standoff.

[Kevinmp]

Ok, gotcha.. if it’s bad, where do I get another one???