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Inherited grandpas ‘71 Datsun 521 p/u


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How does on even post without any content? Most forums don't even let you do that.  But this being Ratsun I guess its expected.  

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4 hrs ago Kevinpm

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Does anybody know what the relay is on the drivers side of a 71- 521 p/u? Is that a horn relay?? Mine has a blue wire w/yellow stripe coming of #3 pin going to the distributor, is that a ground? I just converted my distributor to electronic and the new distributor has a blade coming off of the vacuum advance, is this where the wire goes??

"

 

 

Tried quoting.. wth. Can't copy a quote.... stupid internets....

 

 

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Wow man I really love your truck, that is a good start. Love the color what are your plans for it stock or modified. Those stock wheels look good all painted and stuff. Also I would just wax the paint and armor all the inside. Wait a minute am I on the wrong thread. Sum bitch.

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2 hours ago, d.p said:

How does on even post without any content? Most forums don't even let you do that.  But this being Ratsun I guess its expected.  

 

It's happened several times and I let it ride hoping the OP will return and add to or finish it. Beginnings are such fragile times. e don't want a potential member think we are dicks.

 

As Steve said, he also posted in someone else's post...

 

Quote

Does anybody know what the relay is on the drivers side of a 71- 521 p/u? Is that a horn relay?? Mine has a blue wire w/yellow stripe coming of #3 pin going to the distributor, is that a ground? I just converted my distributor to electronic and the new distributor has a blade coming off of the vacuum advance, is this where the wire goes??

 

I would guess this is the relay to turn the second set of points on or off on the old distributor. If you now have an EI distributor you don't need this.

 

Some EI distributors have an extra terminal for a separate ground wire. All ground through the mounting bolts into the timing cover.

 

 

 

5 hours ago, Kevinpm said:

Does anybody know what the relay is on the drivers side of a 71- 521 p/u? Is that a horn relay?? Mine has a blue wire w/yellow stripe coming of #3 pin going to the distributor, is that a ground? I just converted my distributor to electronic and the new distributor has a blade coming off of the vacuum advance, is this where the wire goes??

 

Here are how to wire the EI 'matchbox' distributor.  You should use an EI coil as it produces a hotter spark. A points coil will over heat and burn out. If all you have is a points coil you will need to keep the ballast resister. But find an EI coil that was used with a matchbox distributor.

 

ZOkbBht.jpg

 

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My son inherited his grandpas ‘71 521 p/u. After being towed behind a motor home for about 23,000 miles , it now has a lil’ over 109,000 mi. It needs some work, but in part real good shape. No rust, no major dents( no minor ones either) and electrical seems to be in good working order. After sitting for a year or so, won’t start. My son came to me to help out. I started with the basics, but really couldn’t get to get it to run smooth. Would start and die. My son had already bought and replaced the carburetor with a Webber 2 barrel. I started going thru it starting with cheapest parts first. So, now with a new voltage regulator, carb., battery, and electronic distributor (screw holding points was stripped out, couldn’t set one set of points correctly) it now starts and runs, but doesn’t run smooth. After reading your reply to my other topic sent in, I need to remove the ballast resistor, due to higher volts needed for electronic distributor? And the relay on drivers side not needed anymore? That was for second set of points? Makes sense. I’ll try it and see what happens. Thanks for the quick reply. 

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38 minutes ago, Kevinpm said:

electronic distributor?

what elelctronic distributor is it. 

if you run a later Nissan dist you need a newer coil  DO NOT run a point coil in there if you bybass the ballast as it will get to much current and get HOT and later fail. point ignitions use a ballast and a higher resitance point coil.

 

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If it sat a year with pump gas in it empty the tank and put fresh gas in it, the gas they sell is crap now and can spoil as little as a couple months, I once emptied a 521 tank that had sat only 6 months and the gas had separated.

 

 

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I emptied the tank, put fresh gas in it. Put new plugs, wires, cap rotor, coil, carburetor, voltage regulator, new oil filter. Starts, but dies after about 10 seconds. Finally drained the battery after adjusting points and carb, and timing. Still does the same. Checked wiring ( ignition) and no problems. After several tries I noticed one set of points not staying set . Found that the screw hole to set the points was stripped out on one set of points. I purchased a el distributor along with the Bosch coil. Now I read you don’t need the ballast resistor with it because it provides more spark to the plugs. Now it starts every time, but can’t get it to run smooth. It almost sounds as if it’s 180* off.  So I pulled the #1 plug, and checked the rotor, it’s at #1 cylinder on cap and piston is up at TDC. All plug wires are wired right (1432, counterclockwise) I did unplug the 3 wires on the drivers side fender to that little relay that someone said went to the second set of points on the old matchbox dizzy. I bypassed the ballast resistor, starts right up, but can’t get it to run good/smooth. Not sure what to check next, I grounded the blade off the new distributor to the valve cover, does it have to be to timing chain cover?? Not sure what to check next?? Help!!!!

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Forgot, also purchased new battery. Still starts, carb seems to work fine, but runs rough still. Not sure what to check next, help please!!!

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2 hours ago, Kevinpm said:

It almost sounds as if it’s 180* off.

i dont know where people get this from 180 off?????????  you said it was 1 3 4 2 ccw fire order right counter clockwise then it cant be 180 off other wise it wound run thefist 10 secs

if you by pass the ballast and still have the orginal coil in there it will get hot!!!! and not run right.  YOu buy a 78/79 datsun coil????

 

how about ajust the mixture? on the base of the carb

2 hours ago, Kevinpm said:

 I did unplug the 3 wires on the drivers side fender to that little relay that someone said went to the second set of points on the old matchbox dizzy.

Matxhbox dont have points????

 

 

YOu got to be more clear hear!!!!!  so does this have points or is it elelctronic distributor????

Take photos

 

Oh when you drain the battery Im like What?  drain the battery??

 

you adjust the valve lash or just check them.

 

as for grounds on the distributor it either works or dont I never really seen them used even if it has a tab. just make a wire and ground itto the 10mm bot holding the dist mount to the front cover, yes the dist pedastal pick one of the 2

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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180 out would fire at the end of every exhaust stroke. Can't even start it that way. 

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Ok, sorry I wasn’t very clear. Battery drained = I meant it’s dead from turning it over so many times. Got a new one.. distributor, it had the original distributor with 2 sets of points in it. Bought a new electronic distributor with the Bosch coil due to the higher output. So I bypassed the ballast resistor. Now it starts, and runs. And runs as long as I leave it on, but it sputtering and sounded like misfiring, that’s why I said maybe 180 off on distributor ( when I’ve worked on Chevy V8’s, you get the wires off on holder putting the distributor back in and not getting on TDC & #1 on the cap, it’ll fire, but run like crap. Just like this is. After more looking and listening while it’s running, there’s a pipe on the exhaust manifold level with the carb that runs north and south on engine, ( some sort of heat exchanger or riser) that has all the holes coming from it pinched off

 ( looks like someone used pliers) but they leak something awful and making a lot of noise ( longer it runs, louder it gets) so now I’ve removed that since it goes to nothing ( made putting the carb on a pain) and plugged the holes ( welded them) in hopes of making it run better ? I’ll find out tomorrow when I put the carb back on.the spout coming off of the e valve cover goes no where, the hose to that goes where?? Any help greatly appreciated. I’ll send pics when I figure out how.            Thanks, Dumb in Stanwood 

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The hose on the valve cover goes to the inside of the air filter in the air filter housing.

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11 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Did you by chance get the plug wires crossed?

Triple checked the wires..1342 ccw on the cap. After welding the holes closed late last night, I did get the carb back on. I turned it over after putting tools away and clean up. It started right up and sound 10 times better then before. I need to get a timing light on it and fine tune the carb and I’m sure it’ll be great. Thanks to everybody for your insight. My first time working on a Datsun. In the future I know where to go for help. Thanks again

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sounds like you got it

I thouht the Blue Boesch coils are for point ignitions and need a ballast.  Most use a Nissan EI distributors use 78/79 coil of .7 ohms

Point coils will be about 1.2ohms or higher Datsun 521s is like 1.6  Accel like 1.4ohms but not made to run on a 12/14volts

the blue Bosche was most common coil for aircooled VWs with point or point conversions ignitions no a true Hi output Electronic ignitions

 

If coil feels HOT you need the ballast back in there

 

 

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The 521 pick up that my son inherited from his grandpa has a original stock/2 sets of points distributor in it 

( # D412-84 & under those #’s is 111)

we Why did you convert to electronica commission distributor just to have less moving parts and hotter spark. We bought The HS-HIT4 distributor w/3HIT4U1 electronic components already installed and ready to install

( supposedly) . after opening the box looking at the invoice and such inspecting a distributor I realize that the plate to hold the distributor down it’s not the same as the original one so I switched the plate over to the other one, but the pattern does not line up with the distributor or the bolt down plate on the engine. after going back and talking with hotspark.com out of Texas who we bought it from,  they said that this distributor is not right for the  L16 because the original had a dual point set up in it . And I was told by their rep, this EI distributor won’t work . So what will?? We just want EI distributor. Is it possible to convert the original dizzy to an EI distributor?? They told me NO.. How do I get an EI distributor to work in this ‘71- 521-  L16 truck??? Any ideas or references greatly appreciated. Thanks, dumb in Stanwood 

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Sorry. 

I said it was going to run good ( I thought) after cleaning up and starting it last night, but this morning it was the same old story... I could turn the distributor clockwise or  counterclockwise,  3/4 of a turn,  1/2 of a  turn,  it didn’t matter,  it still runs,   but  not smooth. it seems like the plug wires are crossed or something but I’ve checked it  out so many times I’m dizzy from it anyway it’s electronic ignition distributor is there a way to just convert my double point distributor original one over to electronic ignition? I’m getting real frustrated on this thing and I need some help,  any insight on how to do this the easiest,  quickest way would be really helpful,  and I’d be forever grateful.

 

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Not sure what you purchased for an electronic distributors but I always run matchbox electronic distribubors pulled from other Datsun L20B Engines.

 

 

L20B Matchbox Distributor.jpg

Edited by Charlie69
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