Sh00bs Posted May 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 the ticking tends to go away on acceleration, otherwise it comes and goes randonly. i'll see if i can get a video of it today after i do an oil change if it's still there Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted May 3, 2021 Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 noticed a nick on the edge of the cam's lift lobe, did you file that down before running it after resetting the rocker ? Noticeable in the 2nd pic. Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 yes that's the damage i was referring to and no, there was nothing protruding out... that i could feel. obviously im not using a microscope and just ran it as is and very aware that could be making the noise 1 Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 Welp, 15-40 in there, 4.5qts with a new filter... still ticking Gonna moth ball it til the cam comes in. Will update after it comes in and i get it in Thanks for the help so far all Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 3, 2021 Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 6 hours ago, Sh00bs said: the ticking tends to go away on acceleration, otherwise it comes and goes randonly. i'll see if i can get a video of it today after i do an oil change if it's still there A mechanical damage is likely to be constant and wouldn't go away if just accelerating. Similar to a loose valve clearance.. it's not going away just because you speed up. One thing that does change when accelerating is the oil pressure. The timing chain tensioner does have an oil supply behind it and this does push out on it when the pressure goes up. Not a lot, I worked this out once and came up with 7-8 PSI added but this would reduce the chain flopping about on the slack side to some extent. Perhaps the plastic is wearing off the chain guides and the ticking is just the chain rattling on it. This should be able to be tested without driving. Let it idle when hot with the hood up and then slowly rev the engine in neutral. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 3, 2021 Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 where you getting this cam?Who makes it? regrind or New? to install correctly provides more than just a cam , yoiu need lash pads. austraila makes ones that dont need new taller retainers.Mainer or Crashed on here recenty got some of those cool lash pads. I think youll still have the tick. i would get a KA oil pump also Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 3, 2021 Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 Agree on the KA pump. It builds pressure at lower speeds than the stock pump. I have them on all my Datsuns. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 3, 2021 Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) Ask other on here I just bought a KA pump but mine was near 70$ ays made in Japan on the Hitachi box but I see them for 20-40 $ those got to be chinese clones unless some body can conferm this this one would work https://www.ebay.com/itm/173977881435?epid=202916255&hash=item2881e3cb5b:g:h68AAOSwoLFgV2Ie KA part number is 0023 I think Edited May 3, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 I ordered an isky The tick wasn't really there until I started reutilizing that lobe on the cam. I have an undamaged rocker with a very slightly damaged cam lobe Before it had a very very small tick, but I believe that was the miss... since cyl 2 had 0 compression due to the rocker being off the valve What changed ? Intake Rocker and valve are now being used with cyl 2 (has compression btw, don't recall if I mentioned that earlier) with a slightly damaged cam lobe. If it wasn't really there before, I wouldn't think it to be the chain ? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 3, 2021 Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) be honest bulid another L20 on the side and just run this one found it OUP0023 this is the one you want https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=hitachi+oil+pump+0023&_sacat=6000 Edited May 3, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: be honest bulid another L20 on the side and just run this one found it OUP0023 this is the one you want https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=hitachi+oil+pump+0023&_sacat=6000 $66 that aint bad! i was going to grab the lash pads off z car depo as well, unsure if i need 4.6 or 6.6 though and what i'll have to set the valves to with the new cam. havent dug that deep yet.... on today's to-do list edit: Noob question here. why do i need lash pads, what happens if i run the stock ones ? Edited May 4, 2021 by Sh00bs Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 (edited) lash pads are abest guess dependin on New or a regroind and if one has the valve cut and the seats cut affects the size of the lash pads. Mainer 311 on here got the Aussie lash pads bu you could get ahold of him toguide you thru this. I have the whole assortment of pads and and I do each one to get the right size. one can be off a .010 .020 and maybe even .030 to get center wear of the rocker arm Edited May 4, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 Mainer311 definitely bought the lash pads, I have not.... but i did save the link.... http://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/slotted Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 Yup. I see why I need lash pads now... ordered the 4.6mm ones Will update when installed Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 Welp, I didn't wedge the chain good enough and the tensioner is holding me back from lifting it up... Guess I'm taking the timing cover off Do I need to loosen the head bolts ? I have the front oil pan bolts out and like 3 back on either side, this guy does Not want to come off Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 get a broom stick and wedge it in there to tpush the tensioner in however do the later sentenced below soemtimes just turn the cam clock wise will induce slack on the right side and maybe you can lift the chain up. if you loosen the head bolts you might as well take the head off then. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 You can remove the timing cover (with difficulty) without loosening the head bolts. Take the rad out but leave the hoses on IT. Twisting the hoses on the radiator inlet/outlet pipes can break the solder connection!. You will need to remove the two 10mm bolts bolting the head to the very top of the timing cover, the front oil pan bolts and 2 or 3 down each side, take the oil pump/distributor and the spindle that drives both and the water pump. Loosen the alternator adjusting strap and swing out of the way. Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 12 hours ago, datzenmike said: You can remove the timing cover (with difficulty) without loosening the head bolts. Take the rad out but leave the hoses on IT. Twisting the hoses on the radiator inlet/outlet pipes can break the solder connection!. You will need to remove the two 10mm bolts bolting the head to the very top of the timing cover, the front oil pan bolts and 2 or 3 down each side, take the oil pump/distributor and the spindle that drives both and the water pump. Loosen the alternator adjusting strap and swing out of the way. all of this has been done already. i'll try to get a pic uploaded later. she's just been pinched between the head and oil pan since '78 and does NOT want to come off lol im strugglin' im positive all front cover bolts are off, wp off, main crank bolt/ pulley off. i dont really see a good place to pull it from or hit with... maybe the distributor mount? im using a rubber mallet btw Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 (edited) Alright got the front cover off.. she was STUCK aha Piston completely out of the tensioner as guessed Looks like every thing is in time... I think. The off color chain link is lined up with the crank gear dimple, so that's cool Interference motor so if I was off, it wouldn't be turning over Just waiting on gaskets and stuff tomorrow and she'll go back together ! I'll set the cam rocker lash cold and hope for the best Edited May 18, 2021 by Sh00bs Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 (edited) it will still run if off a link or 2 but power will be off but if you put the lonks on the dimples then its timed. really if you want 1 2 or 3 on cam timing its up to you. L20 came from factory on #2 Edited May 19, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 alright so she's all back together, oil pump rod was set Dot to Notch on TDC for cyl 1. she did not want to start but the more i turned the dizzy to the right the closer it got, until i was all the way right as possible. i believe i set the cam to position 3 correctly. like, im pretty sure BUT i watched a lot of youtube videos over the past few days and read a LOT of threads on here... i think i have an issue my chain - oem as far as i can tell, has 1 discolored link i marked with a paint marker and 1 link with a dimple on it. i looked for a good amount of time for a second discolored link to no avail. the dimpled link is only 10 or so links away from the discolored link is this what my chain is suppose to have ? everything im reading says i should have 2 discolored links. one should be on the crank dimpled tooth and the other should be on the cam gear to set it for position 1, 2 or 3... im thinking about buying a new chain with the 2 discolored teeth. now that i've gotten the front cover off and done it all, it's really not too bad. with the valve lash set and this being an interference motor, if i really messed up she wouldnt turn over freely, correct ? i think im close, but probably 1 link off. i just dont know which direction, sigh. hope to get some help from one of ya'll nice folks today! Hope ya'll had a good weekend. i got a video, not sure if i can upload it here or not... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 cause because you have the notches lined up doesnt mean it went in correctly . you have to look for the 11.28 position cause the spindal turns and if it caught the wrong toothe it will move more and that why it seems to start better. watch the vids again or photos of a correct spoindal set up then you check by looking at the rotor and if its right on the #1 plug wire and your in middle of the timing plate and or use a timming light and see where you at. If you have to crank the dist to one side to get close to 10deg BTDC then soemthing is off. 3 hours ago, Sh00bs said: the dimpled link is only 10 or so links away from the discolored link I dont know what to tell you. Im sure you seen my vid so is that 10 same as what I have on my vid???? as for timing sets I can only find the OSK brand that are the Jap made ones and should have both brite links. But the quality of even them has gone down compared to the Tsubaki(Cammila) BRANDED SET THEY USED TO SELL. One can alwasys loosely put the timing cover back on then turn the motor ove and put back at TDC on crank then look at the cam timing if one has the sprocket with the inspection hole in correct spot to see the V voth on spcket and the dash on the cam tower trusht washer. Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2021 Alright guys I think im good Thanks for all the help Here's where I'm at. Position 2 this time Found the other discolored link Notches set Top on #2, bottom on dimpled Once on I took the slack out of the right side of the chain to ensure she won't skip a link Will report back after I finish getting her together and try to fire up Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 26, 2021 Report Share Posted May 26, 2021 Between the dimple on the cam sprocket and the dimple on the crankshaft sprocket there are.... L16/18......... 42 links L20B........... 44 links Z20/22....... 38 links Z24............. 40 links Quote Link to comment
Sh00bs Posted May 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2021 So I think I did a decent job But I might be a tooth off with the oil pump gear... Dizzy fully turned to the right she's running but not the best See video here: Quote Link to comment
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