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86' 720 Carburetor


Traumatized3

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Hi All,

I have a 1986 720 with a Z24 that I am currently having running issues with. I bought the truck last year and about 2 moths after I got the truck it started stalling. Ran Seafoam, Carb cleaner and heet and also changed the fuel filter and it ran fine again until about 2 weeks ago. When I had the air filter off for the first time I could see where there is supposed to be an electronic switch and a spring controlling the choke which was missing. Now the truck is stalling whenever I go into neutral and lift off the gas the engine dies or when at a low RPM it almost feels like a misfire. Once its moving I have no issues from it. I'm looking for aftermarket carburetors that will fit. I bought a replacement and it didn't have enough vacuum line posts or the right harness to connect to the truck. I don't know enough about vehicles to rebuild a carburetor myself and no mechanics nearby will rebuild a Nissan carburetor.

I appreciate any feedback!

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You have a feed back carb if there is 6 wires going to it.

 

First do you have emissions inspection where you live?

 

If not then a Weber DGEV 32/36 will work.  It is what I run on my 86 720 and all my Nissan/Datsun trucks.

 

I have to go through emissions every 2 years here in Phoenix AZ and they do not care what carb is on the vehicle. They put the sniffer in the exhaust for idle, high speed, and deceleration tests.  The EGR has to work.

 

I buy my Webers and Weber parts from Pierce Manifolds.

 

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/

 

 

Edited by Charlie69
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Xpx5kbG.jpg

 

Listen at the rear of the carburetor while someone turns the ignition on off on off on off (but don't start it) What you should hear is a soft clicking sound. Does it???

NO there is no sound. Check for 12v on the red wire and to ground.

YES there's clicking, then turn the idle speed screw in a couple of turns and start it does it keep running now???

 

Post a picture of the choke area. Can''t see why someone would remove the electric choke but you can buy universal manual chokes to replace it.

 

 

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Right above where the wire harness goes into the carburetor its self there is a little metal tab that sticks out. From the front of the truck it moves left to right and when I move it it opens and closes the choke. I'm not too sure what is supposed to be on it, but it looks like a spring or something has fallen off so the mechanism that is supposed to control the opening and closing isn't there

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Just above the red wire?

 

Mq0uVYG.jpg

 

Where I have 3 screws holding the black choke heater in place, yours has rivets. Drill them out and remove the heater. (you can put back on with suitable self tapping screws.  

 

RLg5TcI.jpg

 

On the back side is a coil that contracts and pulls the choke on, and when warmed by the electrical heater (you can see the heating coil behind it) unwinds and lets the choke open. If that J shape on the coil is off the part that you mention the choke won't work. 

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Make sure that you have good vacuum.  The brake booster can cause issues, so see if depressing the brakes changes anything.  Try plugging vac sources to isolate problems, and make sure that everything is secure that connects to the manifold.

 

Pull your spark plugs and 'read' them.

 

Your symptoms kinda sound like a stuck open EGR valve.

 

 

 

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Thanks for all the input! I'm more than likely going to buy a new carburetor as I don't have the knowledge or the means to do that kind of work. If Nissan carburetors are "too tedious" as I've been told by two local mechanics, I have no chance haha. The carburetor Charlie69 mentioned seems like my best option

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